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Post by MarkAnderson on May 1, 2015 7:36:57 GMT -7
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Post by Carl0s on Jun 25, 2015 23:08:55 GMT -7
Forgive me if someone already asked the following question and I missed it.
If I were doing the ADVANCE HANGBOARD ROUTINE what set should I log to plot on my progression chart?
Set 1 baseline
Set 2 baseline + 10
Set 3 baseline + 20
I have been logging set 3, but now I can complete it.
Thanks,
Carlos
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Post by Charlie S on Jun 26, 2015 6:53:47 GMT -7
So I track/log them all. Logging the data isn't so difficult. Trying to graph it is, so, I just have an additional plot. I'm on the intermediate so I have a baseline and a baseline +10. Some of the holds are really hard for me and will end up as a baseline +5 if I'm not progressing appropriately.  Intermediate Hangboard Data  Intermediate Hangboard Graphs |
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Post by cirquebound on Aug 20, 2015 15:09:36 GMT -7
Quite insightful,
I have been recently utilizing my hang board. Yet, have been cautious to increase weight (being large for the climbing community 6.5' and 200lbs). With that being said, I was projecting gains for my cycles at increment of 5lbs every two sessions. From what I can tell it seems to be well within others gains.
Fingers crossed…
Thanks!
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Post by joev9 on Aug 21, 2015 6:28:17 GMT -7
cirquebound, better to be safe and injury free. take it as slow as you want, eventually you will feel ready to move the weights up. I started very slowly with my 2 finger pocket hangs and after a year feel pretty strong on them, something I never really thought was possible...
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Post by joshvillen on Aug 21, 2015 9:50:45 GMT -7
Quite insightful, I have been recently utilizing my hang board. Yet, have been cautious to increase weight (being large for the climbing community 6.5' and 200lbs). With that being said, I was projecting gains for my cycles at increment of 5lbs every two sessions. From what I can tell it seems to be well within others gains. Fingers crossed… Thanks! I just want to know....Did you STAND....Did you DELIVER hahaha Sweet photo |
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Post by jlarson on Sept 23, 2015 10:56:10 GMT -7
I am astounded at how motivating it is to have quantified results from season to season. I've never recorded workout data before and I'm really digging it. Very cool to see that others are similarly inspired.
How have people been quantifying their campus board data?
It looks like the OP has 3 weighted categories (rung size, exercise intensity, and hand moves) which are then multiplied together. All the exercises are summed for a total workout volume.
eg the beginner campus routine:
A 1-3-4 Max Ladder on the large rungs would be 1x3x2 =6
a basic ladder to 6 on the large rungs would be 1x1x6 =6
matching ladders to 4 on the large rungs would be 1x1x4=4
Would it be better to weight the max ladders a bit differently to better reflect the higher intensity? Does it even really matter or does it just matter that the quantifying is consistent from season to season.
Lastly, how would you score a partially completed exercise?
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Post by Charlie S on Sept 23, 2015 17:54:28 GMT -7
eg the beginner campus routine: A 1-3-4 Max Ladder on the large rungs would be 1x3x2 =6 a basic ladder to 6 on the large rungs would be 1x1x6 =6 matching ladders to 4 on the large rungs would be 1x1x4=4 Would it be better to weight the max ladders a bit differently to better reflect the higher intensity? Does it even really matter or does it just matter that the quantifying is consistent from season to season. Lastly, how would you score a partially completed exercise? You can change those however you please. I originally came up with that scale based on perceived difficulty compared to others. It'd be interesting if there was something a little more concrete than perception for them, however. Mostly, though, it helps with the season-to-season consistency. Your last post, I still rate it the same (say I tried a 1-4-7 and slapped the bottom of the 7th rung) as a completed one, mathematically. BUT I make a note of my progress (or regress). Others may have a different strategy. |
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Post by Charlie S on Dec 30, 2015 12:36:23 GMT -7
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Post by daustin on Dec 31, 2015 9:17:03 GMT -7
Thanks, Charlie, this is awesome work! Kudos. Quick question on the calories burned charts -- do you normalize per unit of time across different activities? Or does the chart present the calories burned per workout/session? If it's the latter, does that mean that trad climbing burns many more calories largely because it typically entails many hours of climbing, as opposed to other activities like hangboarding and campusing that entail relatively short periods of exertion? |
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Post by Charlie S on Dec 31, 2015 9:52:55 GMT -7
Quick question on the calories burned charts -- do you normalize per unit of time across different activities? Or does the chart present the calories burned per workout/session? If it's the latter, does that mean that trad climbing burns many more calories largely because it typically entails many hours of climbing, as opposed to other activities like hangboarding and campusing that entail relatively short periods of exertion? It is the latter, and your deduction is correct. Which explains why I'm usually so tired the day after a long day of outdoor climbing. When climbing outdoors, however, I try to remember to stop recording data between climbs. I do record duration, so, I could go back and normalize against time. Might have to do that now that you mention it. EDIT: Thanks for the great question. Proved to be a quick and valuable exercise in derived values in Access. Here is that chart with caloric burn normalized per hour:  So to answer your question again (this time correctly), outdoor sport/ARC training takes the cake for caloric burn per hour. Trad in 2nd and regular ARC training in 3rd. Ordered and values: Sport/Outdoor ARC: 600 cal/hr Trad: 417 cal/hr ARC Training: 380 cal/hr Gym Climbing (warming up): 198 cal/hr Power-Endurance (LBCs): 181 cal/hr Campusing: 153 cal/hr Limit Boulder: 125 cal/hr Hangboard: 60 cal/hr The hangboard is worth noting. At the beginning, I burned 4 calories in the intermediate workout. By the hangboard session #9, I was up to 90. |
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Post by cirquebound on Apr 7, 2016 11:14:19 GMT -7
cirquebound, better to be safe and injury free. take it as slow as you want, eventually you will feel ready to move the weights up. I started very slowly with my 2 finger pocket hangs and after a year feel pretty strong on them, something I never really thought was possible... Well its been months since I last posted. I finished out my cycle and was feeling pretty good! Sadly tho, I headed out to CO for an interview and did some light bouldering. Which caused me to popped a small tendon in my hand. No diagnostic from a doctor (I live with multiple ones, but none specialize in hands). None the less, I am pretty sure that it happened from the IM shallow pockets. Either I was going too hard or wasn't listening to my body. I have since recovered and sent the hardest I have ever sent! But I have now moved away from doing any pocket training. Maybe I should start back up with significant reduced weight??? For now I just use a veriety of crimps and pinches (mostly crimps --> my weakness). |
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Post by tombishop on Oct 7, 2023 4:45:16 GMT -7
Hi All, brand new version 3 of The Rock Gym Log brings bunch of improvements to the log sheet and some new functionality - like awesome tracking of your limit sends (OS, Flash, Red point). You can check out the updated pictures in my original post here or you can head over to the web and see more details about the new version. Cheers! Martin Hi! Anyone knows if Martin has posted this log somewhere else? Website doesn’t let you download it anymore, thank you |
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