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Post by jdgilberg on Sept 8, 2014 7:34:14 GMT -7
Slim, I think I follow what you are saying about the critical damage function and it sounds pretty cool.
Do you have a real world example you can show? How do determine the grip handicaps?
I've been logging my hangboard sessions and have entered your function, but I don't quite know how to use it yet.
Thanks!
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Post by slimshaky on Sept 15, 2014 13:04:16 GMT -7
sorry i am slow to respond to your question. establishing your 'handicaps' or baseline strength level for a given hold is sort of a gray area. when i got my RPTC, i spent my first workout coming up with these numbers. i made a list of the holds i planned on using in my training. then, i would do a set of hangs with that hold - i started with a weight that i knew i could do (having a lot of previous HB training helps here, otherwise be really conservative). i would hang for 5 seconds, add 2.5 lbs while resting 5 seconds, hang another 5 seconds, add another 2.5 lbs..... when i got to a weight that i failed i wrote down that weight, subtracted 10 lbs, and called that my handicap. this actually worked pretty well. i will try to dig up some of my old data for an example of the CDF, or at least why i tried to come up with it in the first place  |
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Post by schaefer on Nov 25, 2014 18:04:29 GMT -7
Hey Charlie,
I saw this thread cross posted on mountain project and kept quiet, but seeing it again here, I just have to speak up:
Super inspirational!
Thanks for sharing.
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Post by Charlie S on Dec 5, 2014 20:22:45 GMT -7
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Post by jessebruni on Dec 8, 2014 11:07:15 GMT -7
Lol. This is great! I love the effort you're putting into accurately tracking this stuff. I shall aspire to be like you.
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Post by Carl0s on Dec 8, 2014 17:30:07 GMT -7
Charlie!!! You are like a mad scientist.
I am going to copy your charts, but I have to learn to turn the data to bouldering grades instead of routes.
Do we have any Excel tutors here to help?
Could this be done in Numbers, I mostly use ipad and iphone?
I guess I have a lot of YouTube tutorials to go through.
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Post by Charlie S on Dec 8, 2014 20:00:07 GMT -7
Carlos, have you already contacted me regarding the existing sheets? It should be pretty simple to change the scales from the YDS to the Hueco system. Not sure how they'll work with Numbers.
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Post by Charlie S on Dec 8, 2014 20:20:15 GMT -7
Let me save you some effort. I quickly reprogrammed it. The personal progression tab still requires some coding, but if you ignore the first plot and go straight to the second one, that one IS working. Other than that, it appears to be working OK, until someone is able to climb V17. ClimbingStats_Bouldering.xlsx (79.77 KB) Note that everything is going to be fictional for this spreadsheet, but it's populated for your edification. |
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Post by Carl0s on Dec 9, 2014 14:03:38 GMT -7
Let me save you some effort. I quickly reprogrammed it. The personal progression tab still requires some coding, but if you ignore the first plot and go straight to the second one, that one IS working. Other than that, it appears to be working OK, until someone is able to climb V17. Note that everything is going to be fictional for this spreadsheet, but it's populated for your edification. Dude! you didn't have to do that, but I sure really appreciate it. I'll plug in all my data tonight and share my charts with the group. Thanks a million Charlie.  |
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Post by Carl0s on Dec 10, 2014 12:02:26 GMT -7
I started plugging in all my data (previous climbs and 2014 climbs) and the graphs are filling out beautifully.
I want to be cool like Charlie so I'll post the graphs later this week so you guys can check them out.
Charlie,
What hangboard are you using to train on?
I think you should label your 2 F pockets more like IM (index & middle) or MR (middle & ring). This way you can really see clearly what finger combinations are getting stronger.
Knowing what two finger combo is strongest on my hands really helps me when working on a problem. I used to think that my index and middle were strongest, but after tracking my hangboard workouts the data is clear that my middle and ring are stronger.
I train on the Beastmaker 2000 (beautiful wood hangboard).
For your next season of hangboard training you say that your 2nd set of 6 hangs will be "baseline + 10" correct?
This seems like it'll be too much of an increase and may injure your fingers (10lbs is a lot of weight, especially after 7 hangs at baseline).
I train 3 sets (set 1=6 hangs at baseline, set 2=5 hangs at baseline+5, and set 3=4 hangs at baseline+10) for bouldering strength.
By increasing to max weight for only 4 hangs I have successfully avoided injury and really seen good strength gains (for bouldering).
Just something to think about.
I see that "All Chalk 12a" is the project for this winter. How is that going?
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Post by Charlie S on Dec 10, 2014 22:05:46 GMT -7
Carlos,
Great questions. Here you go:
Hangboard: Metolius Simulator. Some day I'll upgrade to the Rock Prodigy Training Center! But for now, the simulator's working fine. I can see though that in a year I'll have to switch to something with a greater variety of holds as to avoid adding 50 pounds to each hold.
2-finger pockets are the middle and ring finger. My wrist feels out of alignment with the middle and pointer.
The change in hangboard routine will be an increase in volume. However, I'll be going from a 10/5 to a 7/3. I'll likely have to adjust the weights accordingly. The amounts for now are simply speculation as I know I will have to adapt when I get there. This is reflected in the Hangboard Volume chart. If it feels like too much too fast, I might try your method.
Funny you should ask about All Chalk...I redpointed it today! First 5.12 redpoint ever, after 8 attempts spanning the course of a year. Super excited!
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bk
New Member
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Post by bk on Dec 11, 2014 5:42:42 GMT -7
Funny you should ask about All Chalk...I redpointed it today! First 5.12 redpoint ever, after 8 attempts spanning the course of a year. Super excited! WOOT, great job! |
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Post by gargano on Dec 11, 2014 9:39:44 GMT -7
Awesome Charlie! Nice going.
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Post by Carl0s on Dec 11, 2014 11:45:51 GMT -7
Funny you should ask about All Chalk...I redpointed it today! First 5.12 redpoint ever, after 8 attempts spanning the course of a year. Super excited! Nice! Congratulations. I bet it felt awesome to send after all the work you put into it. You are getting too strong. |
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Post by slimshaky on Dec 11, 2014 13:46:34 GMT -7
congrats charlie, that's great!
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