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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 11, 2014 15:20:20 GMT -7
Right on man, great job! Think of what you could do with a decent hangboard  |
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Post by Charlie S on Dec 11, 2014 18:12:35 GMT -7
Thanks everyone for the congrats! It was certainly a great day off of work to go climbing; getting that was just the icing on the cake.
Mark: Yes, I know. I'll pull the trigger on it soon. My training buddy has one and I'm very impressed by the plethora of holds in such a small space.
Carlos: Still looking forward to your plots!
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Post by Carl0s on Dec 15, 2014 11:28:43 GMT -7
Still working on my plots, I have been kind of busy climbing outside. Temps are awesome here in Bishop, Ca. about 40 degrees.
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Post by Carl0s on Dec 17, 2014 13:45:45 GMT -7
Carlos: Still looking forward to your plots! Here is an example of the one tracking form I created in Numbers for my iPhone. Flickr Photo LinkNot sure I couldn't get the photo to show, but there is a link above. |
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Post by coachseiji on Dec 27, 2014 12:59:15 GMT -7
Just stumbled on this thread looking for a hangboard spreadsheet....There is a very similar logarithmic function that we use for monitoring training called Total Stress Score (TSS). You can find a lot of information on it if you look up Training Peaks (the online training management tool I use for aerobic based sports) and searching under Andrew Coggan. In a nutshell, 100 TSS is as hard as you can go in the activity for one hour. The most accurate measurements are off power meters used in cycling, where we are pretty much programming via watts and Joules and time/heart rate is pretty old school at this point. TSS has associated metrics like IF Intensity Factor, 1.00 corresponding to the watts @max effort and other very useful metrics. Just wanted to give Slim some info to chew on and applaud you guys for going down that rabbit hole. TSS, power measurement, etc totally changed training for cycling and brought a lot of athletes up to the same level. You can predict VERY well with these metrics performance peaks, trending performance, etc. All these metrics combine into a running PMC (Performance Manager Chart) that is VERY accurate in determining what you can and cannot do at any moment and I see this as a great tool that will come to climbing someday. I do use Training Peaks for my own training but at this point I subjectively log TSS for everything other than cardio exercise since it cannot be accurately measured yet. Good luck with all that and I will keep following as it's right up my alley and I love that kind of thing.
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Post by MartinK on Jan 2, 2015 16:31:18 GMT -7
Hi guys, I got something for your training needs nerds! I it is app like excel log sheet for tracking your bouldering and roped climbing (I call it The Rock Gym Log). It uses entry forms to log in your sessions and the data are automatically added into charts. This is how it looks like: Entry forms:   Dashboard:  Sends:  Bouldering detailed analysis:  Roped climbing detailed analysis:  Get it here: therockgymlog.byethost7.com/Enjoy! - Martin |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 2, 2015 18:31:02 GMT -7
That's awesome man, nice work!
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Post by Charlie S on Jan 3, 2015 8:38:46 GMT -7
I love how training brings out the inner (or not so inner) geek in many of us.
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Post by Carl0s on Jan 5, 2015 10:52:55 GMT -7
Good job Martin!
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Post by MartinK on Jan 10, 2015 16:42:40 GMT -7
Thanks guys for the nice words! I put more work into it and released version 2 which is more polished product. I updated the pictures of the original post to reflect the changes - check it out.
Cheers!
Martin
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Post by Charlie S on Jan 27, 2015 9:26:45 GMT -7
Ok, enough people have asked about the updated copies of these sheets. So, here they are with most of my data so you can see how they work: Training Tracking: RockProdigyTraining.xlsx (157.21 KB) 2014 Climbing Stats (validated and verified all data fields work): 2014ClimbingStats.xlsx (90.65 KB) 2015 Climbing Stats (working on the personal progression sheet to more accurately display attempts based on OS, Flash, and RP): 2015ClimbingStats.xlsx (95.91 KB) Let me know if you spot any errors or potential improvements! |
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Post by MartinK on Mar 9, 2015 7:36:30 GMT -7
Hi All, brand new version 3 of The Rock Gym Log brings bunch of improvements to the log sheet and some new functionality - like awesome tracking of your limit sends (OS, Flash, Red point). You can check out the updated pictures in my original post here or you can head over to the web and see more details about the new version. Cheers! Martin |
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Post by iepsje on Mar 19, 2015 1:34:06 GMT -7
Nice jobs! Although a pity that we use different systems all over the world  Most of the routes in Europe are graded with the french system (7/a/b/c). |
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Post by MartinK on Mar 31, 2015 14:04:42 GMT -7
No more sad faces - The Rock Gym Log comes with the french system as well now. Enjoy!
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Post by iepsje on Apr 1, 2015 5:08:02 GMT -7
Whoeha! I love you!
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Most of the routes in Europe are graded with the french system (7/a/b/c).