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Post by Charlie S on Apr 1, 2015 13:02:27 GMT -7
Martin,
Nice work. Maybe I should up my game and make the same modifications to mine.
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Post by MartinK on Apr 2, 2015 9:44:50 GMT -7
Thanks! Yup Charlie, surely the users will appreciate it, but I gotta warn you - the special someone won't appreciate that you will be spending evenings with Excel.. so careful there! lol
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Post by Charlie S on Apr 2, 2015 17:12:09 GMT -7
That's why you do it on lunch break!
Question for folks using the French system: is having ratings in the following form adequate?
6a, 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, 8a, etc.
As opposed to:
6a-, 6a, 6a+, 6b-, 6b, 6b+, etc.
How often are those modifiers used and is it acceptable to collapse them into just the letter grade?
For instance, with the YDS, I collapse the "a" and "-" modifiers into the "-", the "d" and "+" modifiers into the "+", and "b" and "c" into just the number grade and call it good.
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Post by jessebruni on Apr 3, 2015 8:39:57 GMT -7
I would say no. Each + grade in the french system cooresponds to a letter grade increase in the YDS system, at least beyond 6c+ it does. I.e the 7c is 12d and 8a is 13b. So if you use 7a, 7b, 7c, 8a then you're saying 11d, 12b, 12d, 13b. There are a lot of significant grades in there totally being skipped over. I know I personally did my first 7c 2 years ago and my first 8a last month. Those two years of improvement are essentially unnoticed if you don't include the 7 7c+'s I did in between.
Also the french system doesn't use -, just +. So it goes for instance 6c, 6c+, 7a, 7a+, 7b, 7b+....
Even with YDS I'd personally take issue with having b and c collapsed into a single grade. I know trad does this a lot, but for sport it's very uncommon. Anyone that's been training for a long time to move from 12b to 12c, or 13b to 13c knows how big of a gap there is between the two grades and compressing them to a single number just isn't a good representation of effort. Hell, by that metric La Dura Dura, which Ondra did when he was 21 is equal to the first 15b he did at 16. 5 years just to climb the same grade again (i.e. 5.15)?
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Post by MartinK on Apr 3, 2015 13:36:54 GMT -7
Lunch brakes wont do it for me Charlie - food and keyboard don't mix well.. Anyway, Jesse has interesting point about that +/- and abcd system, I personally did not have the experience yet as I climb mostly in gyms with the +/- system. But I'm going to include that in future update of the sheet - makes sense to me.
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Post by Charlie S on Apr 3, 2015 16:19:21 GMT -7
Ok, French system beta (as in not alpha and not "the info" for a route) test sheet: ClimbingStats_FrenchSystem.xlsx (60.5 KB) Interesting point on the +/-. For me, much of my climbing (at least 50%) uses the +/- as opposed to letter grades, and even more simply have no letter grade designation. |
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Post by jessebruni on Apr 6, 2015 8:39:04 GMT -7
Yeah, you've got something wrong there unless you really climbed a 13d (8b) and a 14a (8b+) already this year and you're simply not telling us, in which case tell us your secret! Edit: I realize now this must be just an example chart and not your actual climbing log  |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 6, 2015 15:15:59 GMT -7
The thread, the thread, the thread is on FIRE!
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Post by Charlie S on Apr 6, 2015 15:58:18 GMT -7
Edit: I realize now this must be just an example chart and not your actual climbing log That's an affirmative. Because using this sheet, I must also be a time traveler having made logs for July and August of this year. Just part of my verification process to make sure all possible (or most possible) combinations work. I'm still "stuck" RP'ing trad 12a, which is quite an upgrade from this time last year! |
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Post by iepsje on Apr 7, 2015 1:35:04 GMT -7
Hi! I am normally using the french system, only in Germany the guidebooks are in UIAA, but in my head I convert them immediatily to french system. In general, 6a 6b 6c etc is enough, but most guidebooks use '+'. '-' are normally not used. Generally I use, 4, 5a, 5b, 5c, 5c+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c, 6c+, 7a etc... If you google UIAA, french climbing you will fine many images with converting charts (for example www.mountain.ru/eng/climb/2004/grade/)For me personally, there is quite a difference between 6c and 6c+  I will try and test your excel this evening. That's why you do it on lunch break! Question for folks using the French system: is having ratings in the following form adequate? 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, 8a, etc. As opposed to: 6a-, 6a, 6a+, 6b-, 6b, 6b+, etc. How often are those modifiers used and is it acceptable to collapse them into just the letter grade? For instance, with the YDS, I collapse the "a" and "-" modifiers into the "-", the "d" and "+" modifiers into the "+", and "b" and "c" into just the number grade and call it good. |
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alex
New Member
Posts: 5 
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Post by alex on Apr 13, 2015 9:17:46 GMT -7
Hi All, brand new version 3 of The Rock Gym Log brings bunch of improvements to the log sheet and some new functionality - like awesome tracking of your limit sends (OS, Flash, Red point). You can check out the updated pictures in my original post here or you can head over to the web and see more details about the new version. Cheers! Martin Nice work on this Log Martin. I have one question regarding the 'Sends' sheet. I can't adjust the X-axis (date) properly meaning my logged in data is not displayed correct (see graphic). How can i fit the axis to a specific date? I guess im just too stupid for Excel plots. Used to work with PlotIt alot =)  |
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Sander
Junior Member
Posts: 61
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Post by Sander on Apr 28, 2015 7:06:09 GMT -7
More nerdiness… I've just finished my second strength phase and the results are in the link below! What may be interesting is that I wasn't really sure about what starting load to pick (i.e. how much to drop down from the last training of phase 1), so I varied it a bit between the different grip positions. The results quite convincingly show that dropping more weight is better, just as Mark has written here in several threads! Enjoy, fellow geeks: Strength phase 2 analysis |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 28, 2015 8:53:44 GMT -7
The results quite convincingly show that dropping more weight is better, just as Mark has written here in several threads! No matter how many times it happens, I never tire of hearing I was right
Nice blog Sander, thanks for spreading the gospel.
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Sander
Junior Member
Posts: 61
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Post by Sander on Apr 29, 2015 1:18:06 GMT -7
Thanks! And thank you for writing down the gospel so clearly and applicably The RCTM isn't the first training book I bought, but it's the first that really appealed to me and significantly changed my training habits... |
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nabis
New Member
Posts: 11
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Post by nabis on May 1, 2015 2:12:57 GMT -7
I finished my first hangboard phase and the results really motivate me to keep going. It's really great for someone who mostly climbs indoors and has no accurate grade system in his gym to see measureable progress. Hopefully, I can achieve the same success on the campus board, which i will also track in an excel file  . So here are my results:  I did my workouts on the Beastmaker 2000. Sadly I didn't improve much on crimps and slopers. For pinches I used Lapis Rolly Balls. The weight in the graph is the weight I used for the first set for 7 reps. For the second set i added 5 kg and did 6 reps. It is pretty much the intermediate hangbard routine from the holy book. |
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. So here are my results: