Post by anotherclimber on Nov 23, 2020 9:43:36 GMT -7
I love this thread, and I'm psyched to finally be able to add! I had a great first year of serious outdoor climbing! I learned how to lead, trad climb some hard (for me) cracks, and try my first multi-pitches! As for training, my finger strength and power endurance have never been better thanks to a lot of experimentation with max hangs, repeaters, circuits, and rest amounts. A lot of lessons were learned! While I did quite a lot of training (which helped), it all came down to learning the climb, technique, and most all: confidence. We could all climb 13a if we just had some experience, a bit of strength, and confidence in our abilities. I'm really excited to have sent my project this year. Grade wise, it wasn't impressive (.11d) but I learned that that doesn't really matter. I nearly burned out getting too focused on grades and numbers (HA, I thought I was gonna do .13a in my first year like everyone on social media...) and I let the numbers on the hangboard affect how I climbed! I'm psyched to get back to some easier (but still hard) trad routes and some big multi-pitches! I've also got a cool sport route in mind too, and even though I had to leave a bail draw on it the first time I tried it, it feels tangible after lots of working. It'll be a big step once I get it! I'm gonna be pulling pockets on Friday! Whoo guys, it's a good year to be alive!
I started this year pretty deep in despair after a surgical procedure that didn't go as planned. I had groin pain even climbing 5.9, without and end in sight. I decided to keep climbing anyways, because I had no other options at that time. By June I was actually starting to feel a bit better and was able to climb 5.10+. I started a custom plan with Power Company climbing with the attitude that my injury was not going away, but I would just have to work with what was available to me. By late October I had sent 12a for the first time in 14 years (at 20lb heavier). I then quickly sent another, with my season culminating in a single day send of a third 12a. I trained through near daily groin pain and discomfort, which still exists, and had probably my best season of sport climbing. Pretty psyched to continue with the journey!
Post by jetjackson on Jan 31, 2021 20:29:58 GMT -7
Parenthood and covid has made climbing a struggle and I've mostly only been able to get out to our local bouldering spot - 1 hour from where I live, for quick 2-3 hour sessions. I'd been working this big bouldering link up, around 30 moves and a real power endurance test piece that goes at V10. After 8 sessions in 2 months I finally put it together yesterday, pretty psyched and a good way to kick off the year! I've done no other outdoor climbing except for hitting this problem and I was worried it wouldn't go, but doubled down on it and was glad to send it yesterday.
I just did my hardest redpoint! The best part was that I learned to be fulfilled with the process rather than clipping the chains, which helped a lot with the nerves! It was quite a process. The first time I tried I couldn't even get past the crux and had to leave a bail biner! Thanks to learning new tactics on our projects, technique, and doing some specific PE circuits I was able to do it!
After not climbing regularly for the past 8 or so years, I've felt the urge again and started to climb 'for real' about a year ago. Discovered the RCTM, done two HB phases back to back (no gyms open obviously and little outdoor climbing due to a nasty winter), went on a little trip down to south Switzerland and as a personal highlight onsighted a beautiful 12c. Which I haven't been able to do for 10 years. f**k yeah.
Post by sbleazard on Sept 14, 2021 14:49:33 GMT -7
Went on my first climbing trip! Maple and American Fork Canyon. Brought my flash grade up (probably because there is so much chalk there that it would be impossible to miss holds) and sent 2 projects (including Route 66). Also psyched to try some classics like License To Thrill and Deep End! Such great routes!