Training Success/Breakthough Stories

[sbleazard]

Dude that's awesome!

[anotherclimber]

I love this thread, and I'm psyched to finally be able to add! I had a great first year of serious outdoor climbing! I learned how to lead, trad climb some hard (for me) cracks, and try my first multi-pitches! As for training, my finger strength and power endurance have never been better thanks to a lot of experimentation with max hangs, repeaters, circuits, and rest amounts. A lot of lessons were learned! While I did quite a lot of training (which helped), it all came down to learning the climb, technique, and most all: confidence. We could all climb 13a if we just had some experience, a bit of strength, and confidence in our abilities.
I'm really excited to have sent my project this year. Grade wise, it wasn't impressive (.11d) but I learned that that doesn't really matter. I nearly burned out getting too focused on grades and numbers (HA, I thought I was gonna do .13a in my first year like everyone on social media...) and I let the numbers on the hangboard affect how I climbed! I'm psyched to get back to some easier (but still hard) trad routes and some big multi-pitches! I've also got a cool sport route in mind too, and even though I had to leave a bail draw on it the first time I tried it, it feels tangible after lots of working. It'll be a big step once I get it! I'm gonna be pulling pockets on Friday! Whoo guys, it's a good year to be alive!

[mcd]

I started this year pretty deep in despair after a surgical procedure that didn't go as planned. I had groin pain even climbing 5.9, without and end in sight. I decided to keep climbing anyways, because I had no other options at that time. By June I was actually starting to feel a bit better and was able to climb 5.10+. I started a custom plan with Power Company climbing with the attitude that my injury was not going away, but I would just have to work with what was available to me. By late October I had sent 12a for the first time in 14 years (at 20lb heavier). I then quickly sent another, with my season culminating in a single day send of a third 12a. I trained through near daily groin pain and discomfort, which still exists, and had probably my best season of sport climbing. Pretty psyched to continue with the journey!

[jetjackson]

Parenthood and covid has made climbing a struggle and I've mostly only been able to get out to our local bouldering spot - 1 hour from where I live, for quick 2-3 hour sessions. I'd been working this big bouldering link up, around 30 moves and a real power endurance test piece that goes at V10. After 8 sessions in 2 months I finally put it together yesterday, pretty psyched and a good way to kick off the year! I've done no other outdoor climbing except for hitting this problem and I was worried it wouldn't go, but doubled down on it and was glad to send it yesterday.

[sbleazard]

Nice man! I've already gotten to climb this year despite all the snow... it's shaping up to be a good one!

[sbleazard]

I just did my hardest redpoint! The best part was that I learned to be fulfilled with the process rather than clipping the chains, which helped a lot with the nerves! It was quite a process. The first time I tried I couldn't even get past the crux and had to leave a bail biner! Thanks to learning new tactics on our projects, technique, and doing some specific PE circuits I was able to do it!

[krisha]

After not climbing regularly for the past 8 or so years, I've felt the urge again and started to climb 'for real' about a year ago. Discovered the RCTM, done two HB phases back to back (no gyms open obviously and little outdoor climbing due to a nasty winter), went on a little trip down to south Switzerland and as a personal highlight onsighted a beautiful 12c. Which I haven't been able to do for 10 years. f**k yeah.

[sbleazard]

Went on my first climbing trip! Maple and American Fork Canyon. Brought my flash grade up (probably because there is so much chalk there that it would be impossible to miss holds) and sent 2 projects (including Route 66). Also psyched to try some classics like License To Thrill and Deep End! Such great routes!

[Charlie S]

Took a solid 2 seasons off of structured training due to a move. Got back on the horse and sent my 3rd 5.13a yesterday. Guess it's time to start working harder!

[sbleazard]

Nice Charlie! I've been shifting to a new program, and after working out the bugs I've started to see some benefits. Already climbed this year (climbed the first day of the year!). For one day I could say I've climbed and skied every day of the year (:

[micahk]

Just thought I'd add my note.
I started using Rock Prodigy when it was first released, and it got me to 5.13a. ended up moving to MI where there wasn't any real climbing for 3 years, and so I mostly just did a training session twice a year and climbed in a crappy small wall gym, and between the Midwest and COVID, basically took a year and a half off. Moved to North Carolina recently, did a single rock prodigy set to get back in form, and tried my first outdoor 12b in 3 years, and literally sent it first try! Even when I was projecting 13a, I could barely onsight 12a. Just a testament to how well this program can keep you in shape and get you back in shape, even when not climbing much.

[Charlie S]

Been a little quiet around here recently.
Another training cycle down, managed to get a 5.13a at the tail end of the strength cycle, and then today just got my first 5.13b! 15 attempts over a single season is the best progression yet.

[sbleazard]

Sick man! I've seen some of the videos you've been posting... you're crushing!

[wallstreet44]

I spent quite a bit of time at the gym to improve my climbing skills. But when I read an article on how to climb to climb better, I realized that my technique was not right. The article has carefully analyzed the climbing technique for people with low skills like me. I hope you find it as useful as I did.