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Post by jetjackson on Nov 1, 2017 16:00:36 GMT -7
Thanks to Great work Chris! Inspiring for me, because we're about the same age and both 'late starters'. Being a part of this forum, reading the stories in this thread like yours give me the inspiration that sticking with the program will yield results. Aikibujin - FWIW, the Aussie grade system - EWBANK is literally numerical, and I'm going to rep the Aussie website thecrag which has IMO the best logbook tracking for climbers, see mine at www.thecrag.com/climber/jacksonallan - where you can see the Climber Performance Rating timeline. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 1, 2017 19:40:10 GMT -7
That is definitely exotic and complicated!
Boer, it's pretty clear that your route volume and average difficulty are inversely proportional. That is, the blue and green lines track pretty closely as mirror images of each other (though the magnitude of the green line tends to be much larger). Effectively you're punishing yourself for climbing lots of routes, and incentivizing yourself to climb (or send) sparingly. For example, the month of Feb 17 when you sent one 12b. The graph makes it look like your best month ever. It was a good month considering you had just added a daughter, but you were certainly climbing much better in Sep 17 or Oct 17.
I'd think an average of your 3-5 hardest sends per month would yield a better representation of your performance. It would be interesting to tweak the formula to get closer to something that matches your qualitative estimate of your ability over the years.
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Post by aikibujin on Nov 1, 2017 21:36:33 GMT -7
Aikibujin - FWIW, the Aussie grade system - EWBANK is literally numerical, and I'm going to rep the Aussie website thecrag which has IMO the best logbook tracking for climbers, see mine at www.thecrag.com/climber/jacksonallan - where you can see the Climber Performance Rating timeline. Oh yeah, I do like the Ewbank system, it's probably the easiest grading system to understand. However, since everything here in the US is in YDS, it's too much work to convert YDS to Ewbank. I also used theCrag.com years ago, but when I started climbing in China, most of the routes (and entire areas) were not on thecrag. I know it's easy to add areas and routes, but it's even easier to just track everything with a spreadsheet (which is what I do now). www.thecrag.com/climber/aikibujinFor example, the month of Feb 17 when you sent one 12b. The graph makes it look like your best month ever. It was a good month considering you had just added a daughter, but you were certainly climbing much better in Sep 17 or Oct 17. I guess one thing that wasn't clear from the graph is that the blue line is not only the routes I sent, it includes every route I climbed under my own power no matter the style. So toproping, hangdogging, etc. As long as I was able to do the moves and not just pulling draws to get to the top, I included it. So you're right, in Feb I only went out once to work on Big Dog, even though I didn't send, but in the graph it showed a spike in the blue line. Since I include everything (climbing 5.7s while taking my son out for a father/son climbing day, doing 4-pitch 5.9s with newbie friends, etc), I think this graph is not necessarily a measure of performance, but it shows that I'm trying harder and harder routes overall, even when I'm warming up or just climbing "easy" routes. If I look at my hardest redpoint over the last three years, it probably shows that I'm climbing better physically. This graph probably shows a bit more on the mental side, that I'm more willing to try harder. |
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Post by aikibujin on Nov 7, 2017 17:05:26 GMT -7
I'd think an average of your 3-5 hardest sends per month would yield a better representation of your performance. It would be interesting to tweak the formula to get closer to something that matches your qualitative estimate of your ability over the years. I did that today, took the average of my three hardest sends (onsight, flash, and redpoint only) every month and plotted over the last three years, months with no (or minimal) outdoor climbing were not included. Attachments:
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 7, 2017 17:58:17 GMT -7
Nice! That's some really solid improvement, especially considering your kids were/are at the most challenging ages during that period. I'm psyched to see what you do now that you have a woody.
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Post by aikibujin on Nov 7, 2017 19:09:13 GMT -7
Nice! That's some really solid improvement, especially considering your kids were/are at the most challenging ages during that period. I'm psyched to see what you do now that you have a woody. I know, I'm super psyched about the woody! I don't have enough to set any routes yet, but I took the biggest holds you gave me and put them in a vertical line with two footholds, and go up and down with my hands while my feet stay put (basically doing foot-on campusing). I bought a few Kilter jugs on eBay that are coming in the mail, and the other day I went to ET and picked up a few holds from their used bin. Pretty soon I should have enough to start setting some routes. |
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Post by daustin on Nov 13, 2017 9:43:57 GMT -7
Psyche: decided last minute to compete in a bouldering comp this weekend. It was my first time ever competing in a comp, and wound up getting 25th place out of ~750 competitors, which was a pleasant surprise.
Not so psyche: re-tweaked my knee on a heel hook in the comp. Feels pretty minor, more just mentally frustrating that even minor tweaks and injuries are becoming increasingly commonplace, even as I get better at pre-hab/re-hab. I was hoping the floodgates of injury could at least wait until I turned 30 next year :-P
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 13, 2017 10:40:35 GMT -7
Nice job on the comp! I sometimes wonder if, as we get better at "Listening to our bodies", we hear lots of irrelevant noise that we were better able to ignore when we were young and naïve.
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Post by jonfrisby on Nov 13, 2017 13:40:54 GMT -7
Reposted from climbharder: Oh dear God, I did not send  Just got back from a really unfocused week in the Red amidst a new relationship and interviewing for jobs in Denver. I learned the importance of going on trips with a plan of action. I tried to send Jesus Wept, but then decided to use the best conditions day to re-check out Golden Boy. I think if I had instead spent enough time on JW or come into the trip with no short-term expectations, it would have been better. I tried to split the baby between trying super hard (GB, Dracula, Convicted) and getting things done and instead didn't do enough of either. ] Fortunately, I felt very strong (quickly figured out several V7ish cruxes) so am motivated at least by my training results. I think if I tie in the mental piece, I will have a really solid season coming soon. Added: what do ya'll think are useful parameters for getting the correct goals, especially on short trips? When is a good time to shoot for the things near your limit versus 2-3 letters lower? What sort of pre-trip planning and goal setting do you all do? |
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Post by Lundy on Nov 13, 2017 21:16:28 GMT -7
Added: what do ya'll think are useful parameters for getting the correct goals, especially on short trips? When is a good time to shoot for the things near your limit versus 2-3 letters lower? What sort of pre-trip planning and goal setting do you all do? I think this is a function of how often you get out. As folks on this thread now, I don't get out much at all, so I usually take a few days at onsight level, just putting one burn into everything and trying to do lots of moves and get some mileage under my belt, then take a rest day, then do a day or two of try hard. Then back home. So I do similar to what you did, but I'm a bit more deliberate about it. |
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Post by erick on Dec 31, 2017 9:19:13 GMT -7
About one full year ago I had a fall in Bishop which broke my left heel bone really badly. This has me pretty bummed because it was the 1st day of a performance phase and I felt stronger than ever! I was off my feet all winter and was not able to start walking without a boot until the end of April and I was not able to resume climbing until August when I took a trip to Wild Iris.
After that trip this whole fall season has been dedicated towards getting me back to where I was before my injury. I build the most amazing training facility I could imagine and went to work addressing some weakness I had developed during my injury and some that had been there for a while.
So on December 15 my wife and I started driving towards the desert. I had three goals,
1. Fill out my route pyramid with 2 more 12c and 2 more 12d routes so that I could take on another 13a project.
2. Onsight a 12c, my previous OS are consistently 12b and have never snagged the OS of a 12c but have been very close.
3. Climb a second 13a if goal one is completed.
We were headed to Phoenix and stopped for a day of climbing in Arrow Canyon outside of Vegas. While there I warmed up on some fun easier climbs and then roped up for a 12c. I began climbing with no expectations since I had never been in Arrow, many of the other climbs were dirty so friction was bad and there was hardly any chalk on route so it was not obvious where to go. I continued to climb making it through several cruxes and soon enough I was at the chains. Goal 2 done!
We were based out of Phoenix but climbing at The Homestead. Amazing crag for anyone climbing in the 5.10-12+ range. On our second day I roped up for a route called Dead Sea which is the classic 12d at the tufa city. Again I began climbing expecting to start a long redpoint campaign. The previous 2 12d climbs I have done have always taken me at least 5 attempts but soon enough I was clipping the chains, my first 12d onsight! A few days latter I climbed another 12d second go and after leaving Phoenix I tagged a great 12c at the Red Rocks on our way home. Goal 1 done!
With my other two goals accomplished, plus a bunch of other easy 12s, I set my sights for "Nothing Shocking" at the Red Rocks, a short a steep 13a. Basically its 20 moves of power endurance climbing with no real rest and not what I had trained for (long endurance routes). I only had a day and a half to work it which were days 2 and 3 on so I was not really in great condition. I did not send but got surprisingly close for how tired I was. I think with one full rest day and another climbing day I could have sent it.
I ended up climbing surprisingly little for how long this trip was but really made the most of each day out. 1 year ago I was not really sure I would ever climb again, great to see how much you can bounce back from.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 31, 2017 16:59:20 GMT -7
That’s really inspiring! Great job being patient and sticking to your rehab plan.
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Post by tetrault on Jan 2, 2018 7:21:46 GMT -7
Never want to hear about injuries, but it is always impressive and inspiring to hear of people coming out of them not only recovered, but with tangible improvement/gains!
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Post by purp on Jan 3, 2018 8:27:09 GMT -7
I had taken about 9 months off from the program, for various reasons. This fall I got back on the horse, for bouldering this time. I had another good season. Not my best ever, but good. I also had to painfully relearn the value of rest in between sessions, especially campus sessions for me.
As I relocated back to the east coast I was able to climb at some of my old stomping grounds. Though I did not hit a new grade I was able to do a bunch of classics that had previously eluded me.
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Post by stanleybaker on Feb 21, 2018 8:19:25 GMT -7
After having a goal all 2017 to send an indoor v6, I finally sent one yesterday. I just transitioned from my strength to my power phase, so I'm really excited for my upcoming performance phase.
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