tsh
New Member
Posts: 36 
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Post by tsh on May 10, 2018 7:36:30 GMT -7
Thanks guys! Jetjackson, here's the video: link |
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Post by daveholliday on Jul 26, 2018 20:22:40 GMT -7
I sent my first 12a on gear recently: Thunderdome in Boulder Canyon. The climb is 5.8 or so to a V4 crux sequence, to 10+/11- to the anchors. The gear is excellent throughout and once you get in the first couple of pieces it's a G rated climb. I got on it a couple of years ago to check out the gear and moves but couldn't do much with the crux. I got on it again a few weeks ago to refresh my memory. I did it a few days later and got things refined down to one fall. My next time out, I completely botched the crux sequence and took me several tries to get through the crux. I rested a bit and belayed my friend on her project at the crag (Empire of the Fenceless). She sent on her third go of the day so that got me motivated. After resting a bit more, I went up without any great expectations but I nailed every move and sent. The crux felt hard but not desperate. I had never gotten to the section after the crux on the go; although the crux is over it's overhanging and stays with you to the end.
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Post by Chris W on Nov 13, 2018 21:21:28 GMT -7
So I just capped off my fall season. It turned into one of my best seasons, though it only happened because I failed to achieve my season goal.
My goal route was Flippin' The Bird, a bouldery 13a. I tried it in the spring and couldn't do the crux move. I trained really hard in the summer and fall, with a major focus on strength and power, got back on the route... and still couldn't fire the crux move. I tried the only other classic hard route at the crag and it too seemed to be a little too far out of my reach.
I admittedly spent a week (or two or three) in a funk, mad that I didn't live in the New River Gorge where there were more climbs to choose from, frustrated and worried that my training hadn't made me strong enough (yet) to send the route. I whined about the lack of local routes (in South Central PA), whined about the lack of reliable climbing partners, and threw a tantrum that circumstances prevented me from traveling with regularity to West Virginia.
After a bit of this, I settled down and decided to focus on the blessings and resources I HAD instead of lamenting what I couldn't change. I expanded my field of play to include the two other local climbing areas and found them to have many more quality routes than I initially thought. I decided I needed to build up some mileage and started knocking down some of the local 12's in the "new" areas to prepare me for the harder routes. I was pleased to find I was able to do them relatively quickly.
It was clear that, to climb harder routes, I still needed to get stronger. What we lack locally in routes, we make up in the form of quality unique boulders. Vicious diabase boulders with small holds, no feet, and technically demanding lines, exactly what I need to improve. I made a visit to one of the local boulder fields and was pleasantly surprised to find that I was indeed stronger than before, knocking down in one session each two boulder problems that 2 years ago felt impossible to me.
Our visit to the NRG last week was my most successful (in terms of routes sent) trip to date. I made quick work of the routes Mutiny 11d, Tit Speed 11c, The Exqueetion 12b onsite (crushed my previous record of an 11c onsite), The Bonemaster Gear Fling 11c onsite, and Psycho Babble 12a (25 degrees outside, 15mph wind and snowing).
I'm quite happy with the way the season turned out, and I now have a new path forward to continue to progress, which involves more outdoor bouldering locally.
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Post by Chris W on Feb 7, 2019 19:42:09 GMT -7
Influenza A managed to efficiently end my winter bouldering season a week early, but it ended with a bit of an epiphany. In the process of reviewing my training logs and trying to find a way to move forward in my climbing, I realized that I had shortened or changed my training sessions to the point that they were (sometimes) significantly different from the sessions outlined in the book. Some of this was a throwback to when I had just started training and feeling my way through the Rock Prodigy method, some of it was also due to (at the time) leaving home 90 minutes prior to work starting, as opposed to now leaving 30 minutes prior to work starting.
During the power training sessions, I viewed the training, up to the campus work or the limit boulder work, to simply be about warming up. If I could warm up quickly, why bother going through the whole ARC, WBL and Hard Bouldering? Why not just skip right to the campus or the limit bouldering?
I decided that this winter, I would get back to the "roots" of the program and do the whole session as outlined like a good boy. Maybe I was very wrong in discounting the work prescribed before the 'goal work' of the session. I discovered:
1) I wasn't as warmed up as I thought I was
2) Going through the whole WBL and Hard Bouldering added an important skill component to the session
3) My power continued to improve during the whole 7 weeks following the strength phase instead of fizzling out after 3 weeks. The only time my power decreased was during my morning session the day the fever hit me (in the evening)
4) My capacity for work increased significantly (able to do many more hard attempts at boulders outdoors)
5) My power improved overall more than it has in a couple of years
I'm not trying to spray, only hoping to add something meaningful to the training discussion. Right now, I'm re-reading the Rock Climbers Training Manual to find out what other gems I've missed or taken for granted.
Also, sorry for posting this on this thread, but couldn't think of a better place to post it.
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Post by elevate on Mar 5, 2019 12:14:56 GMT -7
Sent my second ever outdoor V6!
The Gleaner - Happy Boulders, Bishop
It is just about the ugliest send this route has ever seen, but I am proud I didn't let go. Every single session on the hangboard I've doubted applicability of Index-Middle pockets to my climbing, but it came through big here.
So funny to hear the battle yell turn to a desperation moan when the left hand popped.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 5, 2019 13:36:09 GMT -7
Nice, makes me want to go to Bishop!
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Post by jetjackson on Apr 29, 2019 12:08:20 GMT -7
After many years of religious dedication to the RP method, I've had a complete break-through season. As per the other post here - I put down my first 28 (5.13a) about a month ago. As I typed I'm flying out of Washington from a trip at the New River Gorge. Over 6 climbing days I sent a 12d,12c,12b all second shot. I onsighted a 12a/b, 12a, an another 11d, and flashed a 12a. Came awfully close to the flash of 5.12b Thunderstruck. To put that in perspective, prior to this I had sent 7x 12a's, 2 12b's and 2 12c's, previous hardest OS was 11c, Flash 11d. Going into this trip I was hoping to send a couple of 12s. To come away with that was just beyond awesome for me. To be able to do a trip to a new crag and put down so many classics and just have an absolute killer time, I'm very stoked. Some seasons have come and gone with less tangible progress on the rock, but it speaks to just sticking it out and at some point a breakthrough will happen. That or the New River Gorge is soft  |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 29, 2019 15:45:42 GMT -7
The NRG is not soft! Nice work man!
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tclack88
New Member
Power Phase
Posts: 22
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Post by tclack88 on May 10, 2019 12:23:05 GMT -7
Just want to share some success here
pre-RCTM:
Climbing for ~5 years, been stuck at these grades for about 2 years:
-sport climbing: 5.10c/d (maybe 3 10c onsights and one 10d rp)
-Trad 5.9
post two RCTM mini cycles (10 week cycles due to school quarter system constraints)
Went on a month long climbing trip
-added dozens of 10+ sport onsights
-led my first trad 10a (NOT soft, J-tree "head over heels")
-Continued to routinely onsight, midgrade 10s in Indian Creek and in various Moab locations
-onsighted three 11a/b sport climbs (redpointed another 2nd go)
-no longer scared shitless to try 11's both trad and sport
Thanks Anderson Bros for the great book. I've got another month of trip (It's a post college graduation trip). I'm looking forward to further, more complete, cycles after my trip ends to continue making upward progress and climbing more amazing places outside
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Post by Charlie S on Jun 19, 2019 18:03:33 GMT -7
First 5.13a, finally!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 20, 2019 10:40:10 GMT -7
Great job man!!! You looked super strong and solid (notwithstanding that one little yelp near the end). Great effort! Where is this?
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Post by Charlie S on Jun 20, 2019 18:01:56 GMT -7
Great job man!!! You looked super strong and solid (notwithstanding that one little yelp near the end). Great effort! Where is this? Thanks! I nearly lost it. At about 80% of falling off, I decided I didn’t want to be there again and somehow scraped back on. This is at Echo Canyon, about an hour east of SLC. It’s pretty alpine, as you can tell by the sounds of I-80 and an active train nearby... |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 21, 2019 7:27:04 GMT -7
It looks like great climbing. Man, Utah is so stacked with great crags nobodies ever heard of!
So how is the celebration shaping up?
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Post by Charlie S on Jun 23, 2019 10:21:10 GMT -7
So how is the celebration shaping up? Uh...well...I got suckered into the shorter 13a next to this one and I think it may go in significantly fewer tries. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 23, 2019 15:46:29 GMT -7
That’s even better. I did the same thing. My first 13a was a big build up, the culmination of several seasons of working through the grades at my favorite local crag. I sent, and then a week later I got sucked into a second 13a and sent it in 3 days. Really shows how mental these arbitrary barriers can be. ...Then the following weekends we did Moonlight Buttress. Is that on your radar?
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