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Post by Charlie S on Jun 23, 2019 17:03:40 GMT -7
Actually, got a couple of trad 12s up at City of Rocks I'm going to give a shot at here very soon.
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Post by acmesalute76 on Jul 3, 2019 18:35:34 GMT -7
My training season is going great so far and I’m psyched! I switched over the the RPTC hangboard and the intermediate routine after two seasons. I destroyed my 2 and 3 finger PRs by 25 lbs and almost matched my half crimp PR on a smaller hold. Also, I just did my first campus session, flashed a V3 on the moonboard and did another in two tries (last season I could barely get V3s) and then hit 1-3-5 on the large rungs first try (barely stuck this my last session of last season after many tries!). So I think I’m getting stronger!! My goal for the summer is to focus on power and bouldering for a few more weeks (something I’m weak at) and then transition into training for the fall sport climbing season.
I remember two seasons ago I had just got the RCTM and I read through this entire thread getting stoked. Cheers to everyone getting strong out there!
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Post by sbleazard on Jan 31, 2020 12:31:31 GMT -7
I just read the entire thread and it has me psyched! I love seeing the progression some of you guys have made (especially Chris W and jetjackson). Keep posting!
Oh, and Chris, eat a chocolate chip cookie. You've earned it!
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jv91
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by jv91 on Feb 13, 2020 9:20:14 GMT -7
Very cool and inspirational stories guys! I can share my own story with 4 training cycles completed and a recent break-through. Pre-training (till end of 2018): 1x 7b+ PP (technical, granite) 3 days of work 1x 7b PP (power-endurance, slate) 3 days of work 2x 7a+ PP (technical, sandstone) 2-4 days of work Season 1: 1x 7b (fingery, sandstone) 4 tries Not much progress on paper due to not clear goal-setting and heavy work schedule. But when I had chance to climb on the rock I could clearly feel how much stronger my fingers felt after first dedicated HB season and how efortless smaller holds felt. That was the main motivator to continue training and to proceed to season 2. Season 2: 1x 7a+/b FA + RP in 4 tries (vertical dance, sandstone) 1x 7c PP (power-endurance + boulder, sandstone) 4 days of work 3x 7a+ in 2-4 tries This season was really enjoyable. First couple of days of high-performance projecting were sacrifaced to making a first ascent in my local area. I dont regret this at all, I just followed my main motivation and I am pretty happy with the new route! The whole process of making the first ascent by the local Czech rules ground up was taxing but very satisfying and I wanna definitely continue and add some new lines in the future! + I managed to send my first X of local grading (7c) and a couple of easier ones in a short time. Season 3: 7c PP (bouldery, granite) in 4 tries! 2x 7b+ PP (bouldery, granite) in 2 and 6 tries 7a+ OS - second ever I focused on shorter powerful climbs on granite this season and felt really good and strong after dedicated power phase. I managed to climb my first 7c on granite + two 7b+. Was super pleased with the results after one year with RPTM. I jumped my max just from 7b+ to 7c after 3 seasons on paper but I jumped by a mile by feel. For the first time in my climbing, every crux move didnt feel like strugle and I didnt pump out after 10 moves... That could also be the sign that I set my goals too low but I dont care at all. I enjoyed climbing this year more than ever and I could shift my atention from "holding on with my fingers for a dear life" to my footwork and body positioning. That alowed me to climb my projects much faster and enjoy the process much more. 4. season: 7c+ PP (42m power-endurance, limestone Spain) in 3 tries! 2x 7a+ OS 4x 7a OS I trained for a 2-week trip to Spain this season. I didn't manage to train power-endurance beforehands but I figured I will make up for that during the trip. So I spent first days of climbing on volume onsighting (or falling right under the anchor) building my endurance and getting used to the sharp limestone climbing. After couple of days I decided that its time for a project and I went for an long aesthetic 7c+ tufa line. I tried to OS like always but I cooked up in 2/3 of the route. I just barely climbed to the anchor bolt-to-bolt with long rests because I was already really tired. I took a rest day and returned. After warm-up I tried straigt off to RP the route but I cooked up 2 bolts from the anchor. That was maybe a mistake because I was really tired after and I must had taken a long rest before another try. When I tried again, I had the route more wired and found some rests. To my surprise after about 40 minutes, I was clipping the chain of my first 7c+ on third go. I really enjoyed the rush of emotions after and felt amazing. This was the moment I trained for. To look at an amazing hard line and be able to climb it with enjoyment. Q: after the ascent I experienced a sudden shift of motivation. I had some more days left in Spain, had planned to check out 8a with my friend but I didnt feel motivated for any more hard climbing at all. Even when I climbed easier pitches it felt off and I was scared even to climb above the bolts (didnt have many problems with that before). It was like my body and mind were telling me to let go already and rest. Strange feeling. So I decided to end the season 2 weeks sooner and proceed to the rest phase and restore my motivation. Anyone had experiences with this sensation? Thank you Mark and Mike for the amazing resources. You've given us powerful tools how to make our dreams come true  I am psychad for the next seasons to come! Greetigns, Jan, Czech Republic |
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Post by sbleazard on Feb 13, 2020 9:27:34 GMT -7
Nice job man!
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Post by Charlie S on May 18, 2020 19:33:17 GMT -7
Got my second 5.13a! Only took another year of work to get through it.
Two edits. The first is the "fun" edit showing the move. The second is the actual send footage.
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Post by sbleazard on May 18, 2020 20:36:44 GMT -7
Sweet! Home wall payed off!
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richb
Junior Member
Posts: 55 
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Post by richb on May 19, 2020 5:18:38 GMT -7
Nice work!! Looks like a cool crag.
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Post by Charlie S on May 19, 2020 5:25:52 GMT -7
Sweet! Home wall payed off! Yes it did! Though for the past two weeks it was all redpoint, no gym training. I started to warmup at home, which really helped save energy and was more time efficient. Nice work!! Looks like a cool crag. Honestly it's kind of a choss pile, but it's a really fun choss pile. The routes change a little every year. |
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Post by sbleazard on May 19, 2020 9:41:00 GMT -7
I started to warmup at home, which really helped save energy and was more time efficient. Really? How long do you stay warm? When do the effects wear off? |
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Post by Charlie S on May 19, 2020 9:42:50 GMT -7
I would warmup for 30 minutes at home. When I got to the crag, I would do a single "re" warmup on a 5.11a (this was usually about 1 hour later). Then it was into the business. This seemed to work well.
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Post by jetjackson on May 19, 2020 22:59:56 GMT -7
Nice work Charlie! This looks like it's close to the last one you did? Crag looks familiar.
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Post by Charlie S on May 20, 2020 6:51:57 GMT -7
Nice work Charlie! This looks like it's close to the last one you did? Crag looks familiar. Thanks! Yeah, same crag, two routes over. There's a 5.13b/8a in between. Might be the next target... |
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Post by sbleazard on Aug 8, 2020 18:11:37 GMT -7
Any more pysch to spread? I love these stories!
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Post by jetjackson on Aug 10, 2020 17:18:54 GMT -7
This year has been tougher with Covid lockdown, but I did have a real breakthrough in my bouldering. At the start of the year my hardest boulder was a V7 outdoors - I had done a fair few benchmark V8s on the moonboard, but yet to take down a V8 outside. The goal for the year was to send a V8 outside (among other harder rope climbing goals). In an afternoon session I ran into some randoms working a V7 boulder. I hopped on and sent it in around 3 goes. They were working a V9 that was a much harder few moves that linked into the V7. I was able to get those moves in a few tries and then linked it into the 7 and I'd done my first V9.
However, was thinking that might have been a bit soft. Went for another bouldering session a week or so later and hopped on a V8, sent it after about 5 goes. Then popped over to another V8 and almost flashed it, just popping off the finish hold, and then it went down next shot.
This has pretty much a breakthrough in my perspective on what I can boulder. There is a V10 that I'll be vying for at the end of the year now, if and when we get out of lock-down.
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I am psychad for the next seasons to come!
