Joey
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Post by Joey on May 3, 2016 9:36:29 GMT -7
I have been a hockey player for about a decade and it is one of my all time favorite things to do, However once I started to climb (less than 3 years ago) I realized that this was my Passion, this is what I want to do to take my body and mind to the limits, which is something that hockey has not been able to do in the past few years. . It is super hard to just let something that has been a staple in my life go, but I am worried that the physicality of hockey and the opposition of both sports may hinder my ultimate climbing potential. I not ready to just hang up the skates, so I guess what I'm asking is should I limit my playing time and avoid skating on workout days? or even simpler, when should I skate or not skate during the training phase?
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Joey
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Post by Joey on May 3, 2016 9:40:01 GMT -7
Btw I'm sorry if this is in the wrong thread!! Still getting used to this wonderful forum of knowledge. Probably my favorite forum ever!
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Post by alexandra on May 3, 2016 9:53:34 GMT -7
Gosh, welcome to the club of doing too much exercise. I have posted numerous questions regarding that topic, so linking them here would be too much work Gist of it is: it is all up to you. You can still see progress in your climbing but it will be much slower. However, it is worth it to you to progress fast at climbing but let go of something else you enjoy? Different people have varied work capacities, so if you have a pretty high work capacity, it would be manageable to do both (but remember to not do any other exercise before hangobarding or campusing on the same day, always do those fresh). If you are the kind of person that needs more rest between workouts, then you might have to make a more drastic choice. I personally do Crossfit (semi-competitively), surf, and do gymnastics and I have not stopped any of those things while I still feel I progress climbing. However, I only ever boulder, so it is a little easier to focus on strength and power while doing other sports that are designed to make you stronger and more powerful. But then again, I have always over-trained, so at least my mental work capacity is very high allowing me to push my body to not complain while training 4-6 hours a day... I am sure Mark would have much more/better things to say.
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Joey
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Post by Joey on May 3, 2016 10:12:37 GMT -7
I think my problem is Hockey can be at random times, so I do see myself skating on a training day either before or after workouts which I am not a huge fan of doing. I generally recover quickly, but damn do I feel it when I have 6 plus hours of exercise in one sitting.
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Post by alexandra on May 3, 2016 10:17:39 GMT -7
I often train weightlifting and/or gymnastics the same day as a climbing workout, but I do it after. So, e,g, hang board in the am, crossfit/whatever else in the pm.
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Joey
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Post by Joey on May 3, 2016 10:28:11 GMT -7
Here lies my conundrum, Playing before or after! I generally get nervous playing after a HB sesh because of my hands, super sore and feel vulnerable because of the intensity of the ladder. Errant pucks and sticks worry me because, well you know, who wants to get hit with such barbaric equiptment and leave nagging bruises soreness and what not.(gosh I do love the pain but as im getting older not as much!) I feel as if I'm in a lose lose situation...
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Post by alexandra on May 3, 2016 10:37:54 GMT -7
yes, you are I am in the same situation with gymnastics/ lifting. I often do a lot of high rep workouts, with forearms being the major component and also being the ones to give out first. I still choose to hangboard first, but this is a personal choice. The only exception is when I am competing, in which case, obviously, I first compete and then often postpone the HB workout for the next day if I have to.
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Joey
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Post by Joey on May 3, 2016 10:41:13 GMT -7
Jeez why cant we just do all the fun things and not worry!! Life man. I think if I buy a van my hockey life will diminish. Who really wants to carry around 25 pounds of gear that smell like wet dog and ass anyways... (PS hangboard is my favorite phase!)
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ericg
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Post by ericg on May 3, 2016 10:45:49 GMT -7
Joey I play hockey in a men's league on Tuesday nights. I don't do any climbing training on Tuesdays. I have tried but it makes you suck at whichever one you do last. Hangboard works on Monday are okay for me though. I just view Tuesdays as a rest day, I don't add any additional rest days because of hockey. Since it is on Tuesday most bumps and bruises are much better by the weekend. I think to play once a week its not that difficult to incorporate into your climbing/training schedule, you can always skip a week or two when your in your performance phase and need a little boost to send. I think playing 2x a week would become an issue though. I tried it for bit, I guess at that point you have to figure out what your priority sport is.
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Joey
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Post by Joey on May 3, 2016 10:56:31 GMT -7
yeah I play on average twice a week. My games are also on Tuesday (Coincidence!NJ??) and I play Friday mornings. With Hb sessions requiring 2 days of rest, I always end up playing and HB on the same day at least once or twice during the phase as much as I try to avoid it. It seems as if My two favorite things are like opposing magnets, not willing to connect any which way.
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Post by Elvis K on May 3, 2016 12:06:11 GMT -7
I know how you feel Joey. I participate in an activity that no one likes as well. I like to boulder sometimes. I know I shouldn't but it helps with my sport climbing.
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Post by joecoov on May 3, 2016 12:06:57 GMT -7
yeah I play on average twice a week. My games are also on Tuesday (Coincidence!NJ??) and I play Friday mornings. With Hb sessions requiring 2 days of rest, I always end up playing and HB on the same day at least once or twice during the phase as much as I try to avoid it. It seems as if My two favorite things are like opposing magnets, not willing to connect any which way. Joey, What I usually tell people is to make up a list of the top 5 goals in your life. Once you have your top 5, break them down in the order that is most important. Be honest with yourself. You need to really focus on which is more important than the other. My breakdown I did back in early 2015 looked like this: 1. Become a 5.12 Climber 2. Keep strong ties with friends and family 3. Reduce Expenses 4. Obtain Master’s Degree 5. Enjoy Life From this, I realized since improving climbing is the most important thing to me at this point, I need to change my lifestyle to ensure I meet this goal. I changed my habits based off of these priorities. I used to swing dance 1-2 times a week in addition to climbing. However, with homework 2-3 days a week (getting my masters), getting into the gym 3-4 days a week was not possible if I swing dance. So I sacrificed this activity because it wasn’t in my top 5. You will have to make touch calls like this in order to meet your goals. In your case, is progressing as a climber faster more important that continuing to play hockey? You have to assess what is important to you and modify your actions to meet your goals. Good luck! -Joe
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Post by jessebruni on May 3, 2016 12:50:17 GMT -7
All of us are making compromises, whether we realize it or not. If the only thing that mattered to you in life was becoming the best rock climber you're physically capable of being, then you should probably be hangboarding every 48 hours (or exactly how long it takes you to recover from your previous session), and spending the rest of the time that you're not hangboarding eating healthy food, taking nutritional supplements, and sleeping. You should repeat this until you have the strongest fingers on the planet, then proceed to actually start climbing and learn technique. I'm sure you could probably find a way to optimize that even more. Point being, there is a "couch to 5.15" program out there somewhere, and it's probably the most unrealistic, soul-sucking, awful program in the world, but it would get you strong as hell. None of us are on that program because we have other priorities. For many of us having fun is the reason we got into climbing in the first place, so balancing improving our climbing, and having fun is a big deal, and part of the reason we don't spend every second of every day training.
Figure out what balance works for you with climbing and hockey. Every second you spend playing hockey is technically time that could be invested in improving your climbing, but then again so is every second you spend socializing, and doing laundry, and watching movies, and reading books, and driving, and all kinds of other things. Find the balance that you can live with.
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 3, 2016 14:21:38 GMT -7
Every second you spend playing hockey is technically time that could be invested in improving your climbing, but then again so is every second you spend socializing, and doing laundry, and watching movies, and reading books, and driving, and all kinds of other things. How bout adding "time spent on this forum" to that list!
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Post by alexandra on May 3, 2016 15:23:37 GMT -7
I bet that the correlation between "time spent on this forum" and climbing improvement is pretty hight. Perhaps there is a scientific explanation to this...
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