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Post by hajekmarek on Nov 30, 2015 16:23:06 GMT -7
It would be nice to have a picture showing the "full" anatomy of the RPTC hangboard. I would think this ought to ship with the product or be posted on Trango's webiste. The book (The Rock Climber's Training Manual) does a good job identifying the edges on page 115, however, it then refers to some edges in the text that does not match any of the identifications in the photos. I am a total hangboard newbie, so this may be obvious to others. Could someone clarify for me a question.
The book refers to a Medium Edge on Pg 115 when recommending a beginner workout. Which one is the Medium Edge on the hangboard? Is it the one below the large edge or is it in the middle of the large edge? Perhaps, something else entirely?
Thanks, your help is much appreciated.
- Marek
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 30, 2015 19:37:35 GMT -7
Are you looking for something like this?:  For a Medium Edge, that is going to be a relative size, based on your ability and training experience. So pick something along either VDER that is ergonomically sound and feels challenging, but not impossible. Perhaps whatever spot on the VDER is about 1-pad deep? For future reference, if you're ever looking for hyper-nerd data on the RPTC, the best place to look is on the RPTC Page on RCTM.com. |
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Post by hajekmarek on Dec 2, 2015 10:26:53 GMT -7
That's perfect. Thanks for the clarification on the Medium Edge.
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Post by amalec on Dec 10, 2015 10:50:50 GMT -7
BTW, there's some place in RCTM that refers to a "small" pinch -- I assume that's actually the Medium pinch, and not the itty bitty thing that's the bottom of the wide pinch.
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Post by joev9 on Dec 11, 2015 8:04:28 GMT -7
BTW, there's some place in RCTM that refers to a "small" pinch -- I assume that's actually the Medium pinch, and not the itty bitty thing that's the bottom of the wide pinch. No, it's the itty bitty thing, which is why you probably don't see anyone including that in their hold rotation, ha ha!!! |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 11, 2015 17:18:06 GMT -7
BTW, there's some place in RCTM that refers to a "small" pinch -- I assume that's actually the Medium pinch, and not the itty bitty thing that's the bottom of the wide pinch. I suspect we actually used the word "narrow", but I could be wrong. In that context, "small" or "narrow" means, "lesser in width than whatever size pinch you are comparing it to". We did not want to assume that everyone would use the RPTC, and we want the program to work for whatever hangboard you may have. So we are saying, "if you choose to train two pinches, train two pinches of different sizes--one that is relatively "wide", and the other relatively "narrow"". But, one man's "narrow" could be another man's "medium". It depends on what you have to work with in terms of body geometry and equipment. |
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alex
New Member
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Post by alex on Dec 13, 2015 7:11:42 GMT -7
I have a question that is somehow related. =)
Right now i am using a Non-Linear Periodization, working on the RPTC once a week. The routes i mainly climb at the moment are vertical to slightly overhanging with small (super small!) edges (mostly) and crimps. I did only one circle this spring so far but i saw impressive strength gains after the HB phase. Now i want to isolate the fingers and train them in pairs (smby already described this in another discussion). Means RP / IM / MR. I am using the Grip 'MR shallow' for this purpose.
Is this Grip meant to train pocket strength or will this training also transfer to edges well? Would i be better off using the VDER? I avoid to stuff my fingers into the corners (more like a pocket then) but still... Im also asking myself if this approach (Isolation) makes sense for me anyway? I feel that the Grip changes from almost closed to open on the last few reps. Maybe i should use a bigger one but i have chosen the 'MR shallow' because the size is similar to the Grips at my 'Home-Crag'.
The Grips i use are the following:
- Warm up on Large VDER, inner (open hand)
- Small VDER, inner (semi closed)
- PR on the 'MR shallow'
- Wide Pinch
- IM on the 'MR shallow'
- MR on the 'MR shallow'
- Medium Pinch
- Small VDER, mid (semi closed)
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Post by firebug on Apr 11, 2020 12:17:35 GMT -7
Are you looking for something like this?: For a Medium Edge, that is going to be a relative size, based on your ability and training experience. So pick something along either VDER that is ergonomically sound and feels challenging, but not impossible. Perhaps whatever spot on the VDER is about 1-pad deep? For future reference, if you're ever looking for hyper-nerd data on the RPTC, the best place to look is on the RPTC Page on RCTM.com. |
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Post by firebug on Apr 11, 2020 12:20:53 GMT -7
While this is a five year old post, still hoping to get some feedback. I need to do some hang board tests for a remote assessment and the tests call for me to do it on a 20mm edge. Since the LVDER is variable, where should one place their hands to replicate a 20mm edge. It´s important as the analytics from the company doing the assessment is based on results from a 20mm edge. Thank you in advance for any guidance.
Regards,
Jim Reilly
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Post by jetjackson on Apr 18, 2020 4:09:09 GMT -7
While this is a five year old post, still hoping to get some feedback. I need to do some hang board tests for a remote assessment and the tests call for me to do it on a 20mm edge. Since the LVDER is variable, where should one place their hands to replicate a 20mm edge. It´s important as the analytics from the company doing the assessment is based on results from a 20mm edge. Thank you in advance for any guidance. Regards, Jim Reilly I've done the lattice assessment. I really don't think you can mimic the lattice test rung on the variable depth edge as the rounding on the lattice rung is. I wouldn't really describe the lattice edge as a 20mm edge personally. The metolius wood grips campus rung is 19mm and rounded. Using that would probably be closer to lattice test rung than using the RPTC, if you can get your hands on a small campus rung. In fact, if you put a couple of credit card style cards, obviously flat ones, that are about 1mm, between the wood and the campus rung, that'll get you to 20mm. If you want to make the most of the analytics vs. the other climbers that have done the test, best to get the test rung. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 18, 2020 8:13:24 GMT -7
What are you supposed to be able to do on this 20mm edge?
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Post by Charlie S on Apr 18, 2020 8:31:46 GMT -7
I think it's a max 7 or 10 second hang. 20mm is a nice "standard" but I've hung off of multiple "20mm" edges and they all feel different. For instance: Metolius campus rungs, THE SMALL ONE, is 19mm. Feels like a credit card. The Royal Edge hangboard has a 0.75" (19mm) edge and it feels like the Metolius large rung (1.25"). The Tension Block has a 20mm edge and feels bigger than any of the above, even with its "pitching" due to the cord. Back to Mark: A few people have been trying to figure out that "benchmark" of finger strength as it relates to climbing ability. I'd love to see the error bars on those plots. But even these people disagree. For instance: -Dr. Tyler Nelson says that a 2:1 strength:weight ratio (or more accurately 1:1 for a single arm) equates to V10. I [was?] last year at 1.8, putting me around V8. On the Font scale, that equates to ~5.13a (I think...). Also matches a good number of my Moonboard sends. V9 remains elusive. -The Lattice MyFingers free assessment put me at "weak for the grade" by 8%.  So I guess they're expecting a greater than 2:1 strength:weight ratio for V8/5.13a and up. While all very interesting, I'm starting to see how nuance is a huge variable that can't be captured in a lot of these studies and ideas. Although to be honest, data nerds (like us!) do like to try and you do need some "standard" to try and compare with. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 18, 2020 10:18:14 GMT -7
Ok, so if I read this right, a median ~V8/13a climber should be able to dead hang this 20mm edge with one arm for 7 seconds? That jives with my scattered recollections from talking to people over the years about the Lattice tests.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 18, 2020 10:22:28 GMT -7
Another question: when you say the Metolius rung feels like a credit card, are you talking incut side up or flat side up?
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Post by Charlie S on Apr 18, 2020 11:21:05 GMT -7
Ok, so if I read this right, a median ~V8/13a climber should be able to dead hang this 20mm edge with one arm for 7 seconds? That jives with my scattered recollections from talking to people over the years about the Lattice tests. Yes. Though with my experience and at least one other 13 climber, this is not true for us, but close. Another question: when you say the Metolius rung feels like a credit card, are you talking incut side up or flat side up? Incut side up. The radius on the Metolius campus rungs is HUGE. |
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