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Post by atmyers on Apr 18, 2020 11:32:30 GMT -7
Unless they've changed it, the Lattice "My Fingers" assessment is for a two-arm hang: latticetraining.com/my-fingers/Lattice released the data from this test recently: http://instagr.am/p/B9zNGplJMyG According to that, the median V8 climber can hold a 20mm edge for 7 seconds with a bit under 50% their body weight added. That's actually pretty close to accurate in my case. Anecdotally, the only people I know who can one-arm hang on a one-pad edge like that climb way harder. Obviously, though, there's a huge spread in the scores for a given bouldering grade. Hard to draw much from the data except that "finger strength correlates with bouldering grade," which I think I believed already .
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 18, 2020 15:30:00 GMT -7
That data feels about right in the middle grades (150 lb climber adding 75 lb for a 7sec 2-arm dead hang). However, I wonder about the extremities (V14 median significantly below 200%), which makes me think users are overstating their bouldering ability.
One thing that’s fascinating is how little strength difference there is between either end of the grade scale. The V15 climbers aren’t even twice as strong as the V2 climbers, but it would seem that V15 is many more times harder than V2.
I think that shows how hard it is to improve finger strength, yet how much of a difference a small improvement makes. Take note of that when lamenting slow progress on the hangboard.
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Post by Charlie S on Apr 18, 2020 16:11:57 GMT -7
Oh, look at that. I must have punched the data in wrong for the assessment. Whoops!
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Post by jetjackson on Apr 18, 2020 16:36:48 GMT -7
Lattice have moved to doing 1 arm dead hangs. 5 second hold. On their lattice edge. You do it with both a full crimp, and a half crimp. See their note below on reasoning. I got +7.5kg on the open crimp (semi-closed crimp) and +2.5kg on the half crimp and I'm similar to Charlie, with a fair few V8s on the moonboard, close to V8 outside and a 13a under my belt. Although I believe my finger strength was a bit lower than what it is now when I climbed 13a. I feel that currently it's not finger strength that is holding me back from climbing 13b/13c. I can tell you for a 7c+ / V8 climber, they expect then to be at 87% of bodyweight for a 1 arm hang on the 20mm edge based on their models when they send out reports. I'll let you know what they think my finger strength is worthy of when I get my report back, but based on others I think they'll say that my finger strength is not a limiting factor in being able to climb 5.14- I agree that there are so many limitations here, and I was thinking of starting a separate thread to discuss the benefits and shortcomings of benchmarking.
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Post by michael on Dec 22, 2020 8:55:16 GMT -7
Are you looking for something like this?: For a Medium Edge, that is going to be a relative size, based on your ability and training experience. So pick something along either VDER that is ergonomically sound and feels challenging, but not impossible. Perhaps whatever spot on the VDER is about 1-pad deep? For future reference, if you're ever looking for hyper-nerd data on the RPTC, the best place to look is on the RPTC Page on RCTM.com. Hello everyone, just trying to idiot proof my RPTC Beginner Hangboard Routine and connect the terms "Deep/Med/Shallow" to the 2-pad, 1-pad, etc for the pocket sets. Looking to create consistency between the photos on page 115, the text on 117 and then the text of the actual Routine on page 119. Any clarification on how the author intends for the RPTC to be used would be helpful! How I understand it (book routine on pg. 119 vs the diagram above), and have bolded the pocket sets that I most would appreciate feedback on: #1: Warm-up jug = "Jug" #2: IMR 2-pad 3F pocket = the "IM 1,2,3" pocket above, but with all three fingers#3: Medium Edge = "S VDER" where its feel difficult, but doable. I usually start in the middle and work inwards during my Set with the same weight offset #4: Medium pinch = "Med pinch" #5: MR 2-pad 2F pocket = "MR (deep)"#6: Large Open-hand Edge = "L VDER" #7: Wide Pinch = "Wide Pinch" #8: Sloper = "Sloper" #9: MRP 2-pad 3F pocket = "3F slot", as this is the one described as such in the photo on page 115It seems like the lower row of "shallow" pockets should be avoided in the Beginner Routine to prevent injury, and that the routine should be made more difficult by increasing weight, not using smaller holds. Right now I have to remove weight for every set except the Warm-up Jug, where I add weight. Thank you for any help! Michael
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Post by cozisco on Dec 24, 2020 10:45:00 GMT -7
Those three (2, 5 and 9) are correct. Actually they're all correct, though for #3 most people will increase difficulty by increasing weight instead of changing hold size. Increasing weight within a session is more quantifiable and easier to control than changing the edge size.
Also, if you're new to the board, be sure to take note of the bumps on the back walls of the LVDER and SVDER. If you know where your hands are relative to those bumps (e.g., "index finger on inside bump"), you can keep the edge depth consistent between workouts.
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