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Post by Chris W on Dec 10, 2017 20:57:05 GMT -7
Any thoughts on the above?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 10, 2017 21:46:31 GMT -7
So, I'm currently setting the weights to hit my PB at HB 7 out of 9, if I'm adding 5 pounds to each completed grip each session. Should I be setting them to hit the PB at HB 8 out of 9, or maybe HB 8 out of 10? Or even 9 out of 10? I've never done 10 HB workouts in a strength phase, but I'm not opposed to it. The answer to this question is unknowable from a practical perspective (contemplate for a second what it would take to answer). You have two options here:
1) Create a flexible plan and manipulate to the best of your ability as you go in hopes of achieving some PBs 2) Use a rigid plan and accept whatever results it produces, then move on to the Power Phase.
I usually do #2, since PBs on the hangboard apparently have little to do with rock climbing performance in the same season (in my experience). However, I've had the best results (at producing PBs) with #1.
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Post by Chris W on Dec 11, 2017 6:05:04 GMT -7
Interesting...
I've always used option #2 as well, in part out of stubbornness, but also in part to guard against indecision in the midst of the psychological and physiological ups and downs of training. Sometimes it's hard not to get lost in the minutia.
I should probably consult a psychiatrist and call it a day.
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Post by daustin on Dec 11, 2017 10:27:50 GMT -7
I should probably consult a psychiatrist and call it a day. LOL!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 11, 2017 12:27:05 GMT -7
I've found Option #1 is actually pretty easy to do as long as you don't care about the ensuing performance phase. You just keep extending the Strength phase until you get the PR(s) you want (or your skin is wrecked to the point that you have no choice but to quit). The danger is that over-extending the Strength phase will shorten or completely consume the performance phase (or negatively delay the start of the next season, etc). Strength is probably my favorite phase, especially when the weather sucks, so for me it can be a bit tempting to just HB indefinitely to avoid facing real challenges outside.
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Post by Chris W on Dec 11, 2017 20:58:03 GMT -7
Strength is probably my favorite phase Ha! I'm the same, as long as I'm feeling like a hero on the hangboard at the beginning of the strength phase! I actually like the changing phases. It's always exciting to enter the new phase. I love the strength phase, but by the time it's done, I'm super excited to climb again.
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Post by Chris W on Feb 11, 2018 18:06:29 GMT -7
I'm considering swapping my sloper for a mono. Ideally, I would have thought of this several weeks ago, since I've already started my strength phase. My thoughts are:
1) I'm climbing harder and starting to see mono's on routes. Training them could help prevent injury. Don't see myself getting injured on a sloper.
2) Are slopers more technique dependent anyway? Will I be missing an important part of my training by eliminating that grip?
3) Will my 2 finger pockets train the middle finger enough that I don't need the mono training?
Current grips on order are:
-Open hand SVDER -2 finger pocket MR -Forge crimp -2 finger pocket IM -Wide pinch -Sloper (or change to middle finger mono?)
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 11, 2018 18:47:07 GMT -7
1) Not a question
2) Perhaps. I don't think they are important to train on a hangboard. Unless, maybe, you're training for bouldering comps. FWIW, I haven't hangboarded on a sloper in about 15 years.
3)No. Mono strength is different. That said, you aren't really training mono "strength". It's more like you're "practicing mono hand position." Which is another way of saying mono training on a HB is probably a recruitment exercise, not a strength exercise. Regardless, your ability to confidently (and safely?) yard on monos will increase rapidy with hangboard training.
Order: don't train mono last. Here's my order:
Large edge (warmup) MR Closed Crimp Mono Semi Closed Crimp (SVDER) IM Wide Pinch
I'm not sure that order is "perfect," but it gets all the tweaky stuff done first, and separates like grips.
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Post by Lundy on Feb 11, 2018 20:33:55 GMT -7
Quick question, fellas - if you're doing 6-7 sets of advanced protocol, what is the timing? Are you doing them on 4 minutes? So the total HB workout takes 7 grips times 3 sets each times 4 minutes, or 84 minutes total? I'm asking because I don't train mono either, though have seen them on some routes. I was taking the approach that training MR would also train mono, and with the limited time I have, about 1.5 years ago I cut my HB workouts to four grips, in the following order: Semi-crimp SVDER MR Closed-crimp Wide Pinch The advantage to this is it's only 48 minutes. Seems like you're suggesting it might be a good idea to add the mono, too, but it just starts to tack on so much time. I know I have no excuse, as Chris gets up at some ridiculous hour every morning, but it's really hard for me to roll out of bed before 5a. To save some time, has anyone experimented with doing a HB workout on 3 minute intervals? Thanks.
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Post by Chris W on Feb 11, 2018 20:56:32 GMT -7
Mark, thanks for the advice. I'll work that in and let you know how it goes. No competition climbing for me; I'll stick with rock climbing.
Lundy, I have, so far, stuck with 3 minutes of rest. 84ish minutes seems about right. I'll do my set and, once the set is complete, hit a 3 minute countdown timer on my watch, with the goal of recording my data and getting set up for the next set when the watch beeps at 3 minutes. This has worked well for me, unless the kids are in the barn and start screaming, of I have to take an emergency poop break.
I shave time everywhere else. I get my breakfast stuff out and ready on the table the night before, have my clothes by the back door, weights ready in the barn, and bag packed for work. Once my alarm goes off in the morning, I roll out of bed, eat, and jump right into my warm up. Once the training session is over, I jump into my work clothes, brush my teeth, and head out. I cut out the shower and shave in the morning to save time, especially since I don't really work up a sweat while hangboarding.
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Post by tetrault on Feb 12, 2018 4:25:19 GMT -7
Quick question, fellas - if you're doing 6-7 sets of advanced protocol, what is the timing? To save some time, has anyone experimented with doing a HB workout on 3 minute intervals? Thanks. I have been doing 3 minutes between new grips and 2.5min between sets of the same grip. Can’t comment on the difference between longer breaks as I have never tried.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 12, 2018 10:36:20 GMT -7
I think the original "Making of a Rock Prodigy" article prescribed 2 minute rest between sets. So it has been done. But we didn't have the first clue WTF we were talking about back then.
My workout takes ~80 minutes if you count the 3 minute rest after the last set. I only do two sets of the warmup grip, so that's 2 + (3x6) = 20 sets, x 4min per set = 80 min. My warmup takes about 15 minutes, and with time to transfer from the warmup to the HB, I budget 100 minutes for the HB workout. SEs are on top of that, but I can do those later in the day or the next day if necessary.
You might also consider some type of compromise, like adding one or two sets of Mono. That would cost you 4-8 minutes of sleep.
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Post by erick on Feb 12, 2018 18:54:09 GMT -7
Mark what does your 15 minute warm up include? I think I'm doing too much.
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Post by Chris W on Feb 16, 2018 15:40:28 GMT -7
So I'm being a little extra conservative on that mono, though I'm not entirely sure it's needed. I'm pushing other grips harder, including the forge crimp. Is the mono really a fragile position to train, or is that just a myth? I have horrible visions in my head of ruptured pulleys...
At the very least, I won't hurt myself being conservative.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 16, 2018 16:14:50 GMT -7
I think it's pretty threatening. You should be conservative.
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