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Post by MarkAnderson on May 22, 2015 13:50:35 GMT -7
That's awesome Sean, first 5.12 is a huge milestone, and it looks like you picked a great one. I think there was a bit of a psyche deflation after sending the first one. This is really common, and happens to me all the time. It used to be a serious problem in that once I sent my big goal route I couldn't get psyched for anything for the rest of the season. But with practice I've gotten better at dealing with that. I think a really helpful piece of advice, in climbing and life, is "quit while you're ahead" (or any number of variations on that theme). Athletes burn out eventually, peak motivation cannot be sustained forever. It's essential to take a break periodically and enjoy successes when they come, because those moments fuel future efforts. And even better than sending harder grades is that I feel much more solid and stronger on the rock, and I'm probably having more fun climbing than ever before. Amen! Spread this message. I try to convince others that this is the best reason to train, but I think it largely falls on deaf ears. |
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Post by michaelleemoore on May 27, 2015 12:40:10 GMT -7
Ok, I'll add another log to the fire. I'm 59, was a 5.12 climber in the 1980s, and took off considerable time as my daughter grew up. She's 30 now and I've been climbing regularly for the past dozen years or so, but not really pushing that hard until recently. I found myself teaching younger climbers how to get outside safely, and often just fell back on that as my "lot" in climbing. But in the last couple years, I decided that perhaps I wasn't done. I was climbing the occasional 5.11, but mostly getting kicked off til I started working harder in the gym. This year, I got Mike and Mark's book and started to work my way back to 5.12. I've most recently finished the intermediate hangboard phase. During the rest week before the power phase, I got outside and onsited a fingery 11d.
Now, I know for a fact that I couldn't have done that last year. So, I'm crediting Mark and Mike, the RP hangboard and the ongoing psyche of my group of 50-something climbers. I also appreciate the fact that I reached out to Mark with some specific questions and got thoughtful answers. That's top-notch customer service.
Bring on the 12s!
Michael
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 27, 2015 19:29:47 GMT -7
Nice job Michael! Keep up the good work, and thanks for the kind words.
Mark
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Post by Charlie S on May 30, 2015 19:24:02 GMT -7
This season was a roller coaster! Originally, I had intended to OS Butterballs, 5.11c, at Yosemite. Given a series of events which basically included, rain, snow, and a very difficult approach pitch for the wife (my belayer for the objective), let's just say I never made it to the base of the climb.
I focused my efforts on a local trad 5.12a called Trinity Right in Little Cottonwood, originally intended for a Fall 2015 redpoint. The uncharacteristic rain we've been receiving turned that climb into a seeping mess. It all looked like it was going to be a wasted season until today.
A friend coaxed me into heading up to City of Rocks (coaxing is too strong a word; more like suggested it and I was all in). Beware of Nesting Egos, 5.11b PG-13 had been on my radar but beyond that, not much else. Anyway, long story short, the OS was acquired! This was my first 5.11b trad onsight and it was a good day because tomorrow the rest phase is supposed to start.
It doesn't have to be said at this point, but, training works. I really wish I had started earlier in my climbing career.
At the worst, even during a "wasted" season, the strength and confidence acquired during a cycle are indispensable.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 1, 2015 14:33:32 GMT -7
Nice! It's been a miserable spring in the rocky mountains, so be glad you got to go climbing at all  Sometimes that's how it works out, and it can be super frustrating, but I do think it helps to have quantified records that show you got stronger, even if you didn't get outside much. |
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Sander
Junior Member
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Post by Sander on Jun 16, 2015 13:39:50 GMT -7
Yesterday I sent the 13b/c project that seemed a very distant horizon last year. In November I picked up the RCTM and started training with it. After one cycle, in March, I discovered to my great surprise that this project came within my reach. Instead of my usual throw-myself-against-it-until-numb-and-frustrated-approach, I backed off for three months and performed another cycle with this goal in mind. Yesterday I went back prepared and sent it! I'm shocked and baffled by the power of the RPTP. Thanks Andersons, you've changed my life! Here's the link to a blog post I wrote about the ascent, including a video: Blog. I have become a believer and will spread the gospel |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 16, 2015 18:12:23 GMT -7
That's really awesome Sander! I'm super impressed you did it first go. You climbed it extremely well and fast for so little rehearsal. You must have been very diligent in your film study. That undercling bit on the traverse looks super powerful.
...and thanks for all the kind words!
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Sander
Junior Member
Posts: 61
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Post by Sander on Jun 17, 2015 7:40:48 GMT -7
Thanks Mark! I was surprised as well, usually I mess up few attempts due to redpoint pressure, but this time I didn't really expect an ascent yet. So maybe the trick is tricking oneself into thinking it's not a redpoint attempt, while it secretly is Kidding aside: it's not the first time I'm surprised by the power of rehearsing the moves of a project in your minds eye with meticulous detail. When I'm really psyched about a route, I do this every single evening before falling asleep. It's become a habit, my alternative to counting sheep. I've visualized climbing this route daily for about half a year. What surprises me is how little distortion creeps in on the mental image. In the most extreme case, I worked a project for four days without succeeding on it and had to wait 9 months before I got back to it. I've climbed it in my mind every single day (morbidly obsessive, isn't it?) and when I got back, the moves felt extremely well rehearsed, all the holds and footholds were exactly were I expected them to be and I climbed it in a day. Sometimes I feel like this 'drill' is almost as useful as spending actual time on a route… With the benefit that it saves energy for training |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 18, 2015 12:54:53 GMT -7
I agree, it's incredibly valuable. I've saved incredible amounts of time (on the rock) by using video and visualization to "rehearse" in my cubicle at work |
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Post by jessebruni on Jun 23, 2015 10:46:45 GMT -7
Random little bit of psyche...I injured my left wrist on June 13th pulling on a undercling on a deep water boulder problem (lake levels are back up in ATX WHOO HOO!) which is going to need some rehabbing. It still hurts and the amount I can lift with that hand in undercling type situations (think bicep curls) has now been reduced substantially, but it didn't seem to stop me from climbing Bottom Feeder 13a/V7 in Rumney in about 7 tries. First 13a in a day, and it was with a bum left wrist, on a boulder problem/route that has 3 left wrist undercling moves on it (including the crux move) which is exactly the kind of move that got me hurt in the first place. I'd like to think that I would have flashed the route if my wrist had been 100% but not too big of a deal.
Coincidentally I realize that doing a route with moves like that is a really stupid thing to do after injuring myself, but I only had 1 day in Rumney and I reserve the right to be stupid and mistreat my body every now and then.
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Post by joshvillen on Jun 23, 2015 13:03:28 GMT -7
Random little bit of psyche...I injured my left wrist on June 13th pulling on a undercling on a deep water boulder problem (lake levels are back up in ATX WHOO HOO!) which is going to need some rehabbing. It still hurts and the amount I can lift with that hand in undercling type situations (think bicep curls) has now been reduced substantially, but it didn't seem to stop me from climbing Bottom Feeder 13a/V7 in Rumney in about 7 tries. First 13a in a day, and it was with a bum left wrist, on a boulder problem/route that has 3 left wrist undercling moves on it (including the crux move) which is exactly the kind of move that got me hurt in the first place. I'd like to think that I would have flashed the route if my wrist had been 100% but not too big of a deal. Coincidentally I realize that doing a route with moves like that is a really stupid thing to do after injuring myself, but I only had 1 day in Rumney and I reserve the right to be stupid and mistreat my body every now and then. Not gonna lie, I am impressed you did that route so easily in summer, that crux undercling is horrid in 70-80 degree humidity. Good job |
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Post by jessebruni on Jun 23, 2015 13:31:21 GMT -7
Haha, thanks, it was actually probably only about 70 that day which is some damn fine weather compared to the Texas Heat and humidity I'm used to climbing in. On the flipside I can't climb well if it's less than 50 degrees out.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 23, 2015 14:59:43 GMT -7
Damn dude, that's some serious stamina. You're like the Viagra-for-climbing poster child! I reserve the right to be stupid and mistreat my body every now and then. Spoken like a true Texan |
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Post by jessebruni on Jun 23, 2015 15:17:11 GMT -7
Haha, thanks, I wish I could make that claim, but since Bottom Feeder is only like 7 moves and since half of those 7 tries ended 3 moves in with my foot slipping off a hold it really only seems like I have stamina when I spray about stuff on the internet.
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Post by joev9 on Jun 24, 2015 6:28:12 GMT -7
Back in the day, I photographed Tim Kemple soloing (bouldering?) Bottom Feeder (and Blackjack Crack). I was probably more nervous than Tim while this was happening...
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I think there was a bit of a psyche deflation after sending the first one.
Sometimes that's how it works out, and it can be super frustrating, but I do think it helps to have quantified records that show you got stronger, even if you didn't get outside much.
