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Post by Chris W on May 4, 2015 4:02:01 GMT -7
My wife made my all time favorite dessert; homemade brownies topped with homemade fudge icing and ice cream. I washed it all down with a dogfish head 90 min IPA. I think my wife is happy my spring season is over  . Now it's time to take her mountain biking. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 4, 2015 10:04:57 GMT -7
Ya it's funny. I try hard not to let my OCD climbing behaviors impact my family, but they can all tell when I'm dieting and when I'm not. They're always very happy when the season ends. I need to worker harder on that  |
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Post by kerwinl on May 5, 2015 11:52:11 GMT -7
Awesome stories by all!
A story of my own, having experienced great success with the program.
I have been following a training program that had similar structure to that outlined by the Training Manual for a 4-5 years mainly tailored towards bouldering, which resulted in about 1 v-grade increase in strength every two years. Having shifted my focus towards trad climbing over the last two years, this last winter I adapted the full cycle tailored for trad climbing, base->strength->power. It payed off big time this weekend as I sent my first 5.13 trad route, a couple letter grades above my hardest redpoint from last year.
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Post by James_E on May 5, 2015 12:07:15 GMT -7
Congrats Kerwin, that's awesome! What was the route?
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Post by kerwinl on May 5, 2015 13:02:24 GMT -7
Jamese, the route is called Ten Percent Meteorological Vinculation, or TPMV for short. It is an old aid line that was freed a few years back by a strong local climber. The route is approx 45 meters long and requires a huge variety of technique, from wide crack (#4 camalot), to technical pin scar finger cracks, topped off by a balancy tension boulder problem. One of the coolest routes I have ever done, will go back and do it again, and again. www.mountainproject.com/v/tpmv-10-meteorological-vinculation/106328521Here is a pic of the boulder problem  |
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Post by James_E on May 5, 2015 13:06:49 GMT -7
Oh I'm definitely familiar with that one (Index is my home crag as well). Nice work! Very impressive.
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 5, 2015 19:17:08 GMT -7
Whoa, that looks rad! Nice work! Imagine what you could do with some contemporary footwear |
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Post by James_E on May 6, 2015 7:17:59 GMT -7
That's local Seattle crusher Ben Gilkison I believe. I never did understand the old school footwear...
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Post by kerwinl on May 6, 2015 8:32:25 GMT -7
Whoa, that looks rad! Nice work! Imagine what you could do with some contemporary footwear Thanks Mark! As James noted, its a picture of Ben Gilkison, maybe on the FA, unfortunately I have no pics of me on the route. The footwear choice is interesting for sure, there is a contingent of climbers here who think the old board lasted shoes are better then the modern shoes. Me? I prefer the Tenaya Masai's or Ra's for almost all of my climbing. |
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Post by kerwinl on May 6, 2015 8:34:57 GMT -7
Oh I'm definitely familiar with that one (Index is my home crag as well). Nice work! Very impressive. Oh wow small world! I think I may have run into you few times this winter at the lower town wall (I remember meeting someone named james). I think you were working on Iron Horse or Model worker when I was on Numbah Ten. Be sure to say Hi if you see me at Index, I usually have green pants or shorts on. |
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Post by James_E on May 6, 2015 8:57:57 GMT -7
Oh I'm definitely familiar with that one (Index is my home crag as well). Nice work! Very impressive. Oh wow small world! I think I may have run into you few times this winter at the lower town wall (I remember meeting someone named james). I think you were working on Iron Horse or Model worker when I was on Numbah Ten. Be sure to say Hi if you see me at Index, I usually have green pants or shorts on. Yep, that sounds like me! Pretty sure I was working Iron Horse at the time, managed to send the following week. Man, it was a hell of a winter out there. Congrats again on the send, that's an amazing line! |
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Post by climber511 on May 6, 2015 10:51:08 GMT -7
I have size 13 feet. I seem to need stiffer shoes than you midget footed boys just to have the same relative stiffness to work with.
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Post by Peter on May 19, 2015 15:04:32 GMT -7
I am more or less finished with a spring sport climbing phase. I actually cut the training phase short to take advantage of some of the best spring conditions ever at local crags in the Tahoe area. We are in a really bad drought so areas that are usually very snowy in the spring were good to go nearly all winter this year. I managed to climb several mid 5.12s very quickly, onsight another, and sent my first 13a. I also almost sent notoriously sandbagged 12d but the weather unfortunately crapped out on me. Next time! I am looking forward to pursuing some alpine trad climbing goals this summer. Thanks Mark and Mike!
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 19, 2015 17:44:46 GMT -7
Awesome Peter, good for you!
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seano
New Member
Posts: 22 
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Post by seano on May 22, 2015 12:16:56 GMT -7
I just wrapped up my first performance phase, so it's time for me to jump in here. I only followed the RCTM plan loosely this first time around, but neverthless I've had what feels like some decent success. Prior to this past month my best sends were two 11c's. Right at the start of my performance phase I went out to Pine Creek Canyon near Bishop, CA (one of my favorite climbing areas) and sent two more 11c's fairly quickly. On the last day of the trip I had a chance to toprope a 12a - mountainproject.com/v/planetarium/105912909 - that my partner had started working on. I gave it a couple goes and made some progress, but left having not even done the crux moves. The route stuck in my head and I resolved to give it a serious go. I made plans to come back with the same partner a couple weeks later. Upon returning home I did a couple of PE workouts in the gym and then got a good bit of rest leading up to the trip. I wound up sending on my 7th overall time on the route! My first 5.12!! It was especially satisfying since a) people seem to say the route is stiff for the grade and b) I didn't just pick the easiest 12a I could find and try to tick it; I just got on the route that had gotten me psyched. I tried another 12a later that day and it felt very doable, but I never got back to it. (I think there was a bit of a psyche deflation after sending the first one.) I did manage a couple 11b onsights on the trip too. Certainly not impressive numbers, but for me it's very exciting. And even better than sending harder grades is that I feel much more solid and stronger on the rock, and I'm probably having more fun climbing than ever before. My climbing has always been pretty up and down; I would climb outside a bunch and get better, and then I'd have life issues come up, get outside less, and lose all my progress. But this plan has made it easier to stay psyched on hitting the gym or the hangboard. I can't wait to get this rest phase over with so I can start training again! Usually my reaction after a fun trip has been "Blah, gym climbing. I don't want to bother." I think this new attitude is much more conducive to getting better. |
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. Now it's time to take her mountain biking. 
