Post by jetjackson on Jun 13, 2020 23:03:55 GMT -7
Here is the finished moonboard.
A couple of things I did/learnt on this build.
- Used brackets for all blocking, one on each side of the blocking. So much easier to install than trying to use a wood screw into the corner. - Sealed the ply and painted the frame - I think it looks great. - Drilled pilot holes for the wood screws on the ply so they were positioned equally and in the right spot. Wood screws went in easier and I kept them flush with the board. - LEDs are a pin to install. - I had to move the beams because I put them on a row of holds - I've always designed in the past to avoid this, but forgot this time. Don't forget this! Cost me hours in re-work. - I was maximizing the space as much as possible. With 307cm I planned to use 305cm and cut 10cm off the Moonboard to do it. I am only left with 8mm at the end, so glad I didn't try and go to 306cm. Plan in the additional mm that you will have due to the thickness of the ply - ergo, where the bottom piece of ply sits against the So if you have 18mm thick ply, you need to calculate the amount that ply will 'stick up' at a 40 degree angle, and include that in your planning - for me this was about an additional 1cm that I didn't plan for. - You can use a handheld circ saw to cut a bevel if you need, and can get quite an accurate cut. More accurate than I expected - just use the bracketing that comes with the circ saw. - The overhanging design that I have that sticks out of the frame creates some horizontal play in the board. I'm still working on getting it to be bombproof for the moonboard style problems. - 2.5 feet clearance at the back is probably only just enough safe fall space. - The Freestanding frame doesn't get in the way too much, but will stop you from going really big on problems that have sidewards dynos to the far left and right finish holds.