Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 3, 2018 18:42:16 GMT -7
I suppose others will disagree but I’d like to offer at least one dissenting opinion on volumes: they are (literally) a huge waste of space and they will ruin your nice pure wall. The best woodies are a single clean panel. The more “noise” you add the worse it gets and the harder it is to set a variety of problems. If you put a big volume on there, it will dictate the route setting for every problem that goes near it. On a small wall, that’s every problem.
I took your advice re: holds. You might notice the comfy crimps, limestone pockets, and hueco patina flakes. They seem to work really well on this board. So I'll take your word on the volumes and use the spare ply for something else.
I'm inclined to just put the slopers in storage until I eventually build a 15 or 30 degree wall. Holds are expensive in Australia, and good holds are hard to come by. Shipping large holds from OS is expensive - that's why I bought heaps before leaving the US, so I could take advantage of the spare space in the shipping container we used to get everything back to Oz. At least two of the slopers are doable for undercling compression problems where I'm pushing off the feet.
Last Edit: Jan 3, 2018 19:06:19 GMT -7 by jetjackson
I'd keep the slopers on - at least a few of them, and use them to bump off of. I feel like it's not uncommon outside to have to grab some shitty non-hold to reposition feet a bit just to get out to a good bump. I have a few hideous slopers on my 45 and use them this way and I quite like them. The other point is that I was completely useless in trying to use them when they went up (even for this bump scenario), but now after two years of using them, I'm only mostly useless with them. Real progress there...
I can't find it atm but you must have seen photos of the home made fingerboard in camp 4 in the 70's/ 80's. A plank of wood between 2 trees with a few crimps on it to traverse footless left and right. That beam is looking rather bare at the moment...
Looks like we might be moving house, I'm thinking to dismantle this freestanding woody and convert it to a 25 degree wall by basically tipping it up. I plan to put it indoors where I'll have 3.1m of height.
I could go with 30 degrees, but after playing around on the 40 degree board, I really don't think it's that suitable for what I'm training for - that is 15-25 degree overhanging routes on thin holds.
I figure at 25 degrees I'll also most likely be able to ARC on the larger holds on the board. In addition, I'll be able to do gnarly crimp limit boulders, and LBCs that are more in line with what I end up doing outside.
Will update when I change it up. Not looking forward to having to break down the wall and rebuild though, a short 18 months after I put it up. Such is the life when you rent.
Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 1, 2019 17:14:49 GMT -7
I think you want your woody to be a bit steeper than what you’re training for. This is because you will never get plastic footholds that are consistently as small as what you use outside, and if you train on hand holds that are as small as what you climb on, your skin will get trashed in training. The rock around you is much steeper than I climb on, and my primary training surface is 33 degrees.
Okay, adding to my thread here with some updated build ideas. As per the other thread, I have built a campus board, that should keep me going in isolation until my moonboard holds arrive. I am expecting them in about 8 weeks from now. Once they arrive, I'll be adapting my current build to a freestanding moonboard, which will take up a lot of my spare room. The problem with the moonboard is that a 40 degree board is really poor for ARC and I really want to improve the quality of the ARC phase of my cycles in the coming training cycles, without having to actually leave the house and go to a climbing gym. With ARC, hangboard, moonboard I don't think I'll need anything else for training that will require me to leave the house - a very positive thing given I now have a young 4 month old.
It occurred to me, that when I build the moonboard, I could create a couple of removable panels that could be added in to the structure to create a two angle wall that has a large 15 degree component, and then uses the remainder of the moon wall above for a bit of an extension. If I build it well, the additional panels should be able to be added and removed in 20-30 minutes and stored in my garage until I come back around to ARC in the following season.
As a renter, I've always been limited to creating freestanding structures.
Here is my current structure. You can see how I've utilised the back of the 'cube' for storage space for camping and climbing equipment. It actually helps really utilise all our space in our spare room.
So as you can see, the idea is to have 2 x 1200*2400 panels, that are reinforced with a 45x90mm timber frame. Then I'll be able to essentially wheel them into the spare room on a dolly, put them both face down on the ground, keeping the holds on them. Then fasten them together with the fasteners as mentioned, lift and position the wall in the frame and secure it with fasteners on either side.
Then I'll have a removable ARC wall I can throw on when I start the season. I'll leave it on pretty much all the way until I'm into the strength phase, still using it for warming up for hangboarding etc. Then when I move to power and power endurance, I can remove it and utilise the moonboard for those phases.