I think I'll go with low profile plastic pallets - I can source them pretty easily through work.
Just got the word back from landowner, who doesn't want to let me drill into the existing structure - so it's back to the drawing board on design. TBH, it could be for the better, I was getting frustrated with trying to build the design around existing structure and worrying if it would hold the weight.
When the Australian housing market crashes, I'll be glad I didn't buy, and instead put up with these inconveniences. There is no reason a 1200 square foot house that's 20 minutes drive from a city should cost $1M USD, this is Melbourne, not New York. /endrant
Ha ha! I have access to some pretty nifty design software through my employer as you can see below...
Thanks, yeah to solve the free-standing issue, I was just planning to build it as you have designed there, but with a 4x4 posts, either side at the bottom with a cross beam half way up the wall and at the top. I'd like to do a cube, like the picture below, but I don't have the ceiling clearance because of those cross beams.
Big weekend, drilled out the ply panels, went with a 6 inch grid in the end. Played around with ideas for a while ,but all the offsets etc. crossed over with the beams and this was the only way I could get it to work - I'm not a fan of the random approach. As you can see from one panel, my measurement wasn't perfect, but it'll do.
The rest of the pine got delivered today and I got busy cutting it to size. Had asked them to do the cuts for me, but they told me the accuracy of the bench saw they use at the store is only accurate within 4mm - about an 8th of an inch. Not good enough for me, so I opted to do the cuts myself. Making the most of my $140 mitre saw.
As mentioned previously, it seems the garage is not water tight, so I took a few measures today to try and rectify that. I put epoxy sealant around the edges where the water seems to getting in.
I also used a marine grade lacquer on the timber that will be on the ground, and the kicker panel, in an attempt to seal it.
Hopefully no water gets in, but if it does I'm hoping the seal will prevent the wood from warping.
Anyway, I went with more holes than T-Nuts, so more T-nuts in the mail.
With Christmas coming up, this might not get finished until the new year.
Hi, You should be able to snake some heavy gauge strapping over the tops and of the perlins between the corrugations in the roof and use the strapping to support the wall. Strap down to three joists ( each end and center) and that should support the wall nicely. Try to get 4 fasteners per side minimum, if you use a #9 structural screw that will do the trick. No need to attach directly to the structure then and no need for support posts. Use 18 ga strapping and double up the top rim joist to help prevent deflection. Text if you have questions.
Post by jetjackson on Dec 18, 2017 15:10:53 GMT -7
Unfortunately the landlord was pretty specific about me not using the existing structure to bear any weight. It was less about the drilling into, and more about their concerns that the roof beams won't support the weight. I think they're being pedantic, but I have to respect their wishes - such are the pleasures of renting vs. buying.
Downer- at least it happened at this stage so you can make some preparations for the future. A couple of my local walls had floods in the past couple years. One raised the floor thus losing valuable bouldering height, the other set up an elaborate flood defence system at the main door.