Post by Michael H on Nov 20, 2015 9:03:12 GMT -7
Hey Mark,
While reading your book, but before starting the rock prodigy program, I got a very mild collateral ligament injury in my ring finger from to much limit bouldering and hangboarding.
I took two weeks off of climbing then did two weeks of very easy (slab) outdoor mileage. I have since completed (religiously) the base fitness phase (4 weeks) of the program without any pain. I give my finger a ton of attention, avoid holds that may hurt it, and massage/skretch it hourly/daily. If my finger is cold (i.e. when I wake up in the morning) it still aches a tiny bit if I apply force perpendicular to my fingertip. But if my finger is warmed up and massaged I have absolutely no pain and it never hurts while I climb.
I am eager to continue to the strength phase, but I am not sure if its wise to start hangboarding or not. I was thinking about doing some very light (not to failure) hangboard workouts for two weeks (with tons of recovery time) then doing two more weeks of hangboarding to get my strength back before going on to the power phase. You mentioned in your book doing "recovery hangboarding" for two weeks after an injury then progressively increasing the load. I was wondering what that entails and if you have any additional advice for me? Should I skip a phase? do recovery hangboarding then restart the program? or continue onto the strength phase full force? Any advice will help!
Notes: I have been climbing for 3.5 years, I onsight most 5.11c in gym and work on V4/V5 outside, its been 7 weeks since I got the injury (not acutely), I previously injured a pulley in my first year of climbing because of hangboarding ignorance. I am doing the program because I want to be working 5.12/V6 outside by next fall. Front Range Climber with tons of dream projects (V6/V7/5.12a) picked out.
Thanks!
While reading your book, but before starting the rock prodigy program, I got a very mild collateral ligament injury in my ring finger from to much limit bouldering and hangboarding.
I took two weeks off of climbing then did two weeks of very easy (slab) outdoor mileage. I have since completed (religiously) the base fitness phase (4 weeks) of the program without any pain. I give my finger a ton of attention, avoid holds that may hurt it, and massage/skretch it hourly/daily. If my finger is cold (i.e. when I wake up in the morning) it still aches a tiny bit if I apply force perpendicular to my fingertip. But if my finger is warmed up and massaged I have absolutely no pain and it never hurts while I climb.
I am eager to continue to the strength phase, but I am not sure if its wise to start hangboarding or not. I was thinking about doing some very light (not to failure) hangboard workouts for two weeks (with tons of recovery time) then doing two more weeks of hangboarding to get my strength back before going on to the power phase. You mentioned in your book doing "recovery hangboarding" for two weeks after an injury then progressively increasing the load. I was wondering what that entails and if you have any additional advice for me? Should I skip a phase? do recovery hangboarding then restart the program? or continue onto the strength phase full force? Any advice will help!
Notes: I have been climbing for 3.5 years, I onsight most 5.11c in gym and work on V4/V5 outside, its been 7 weeks since I got the injury (not acutely), I previously injured a pulley in my first year of climbing because of hangboarding ignorance. I am doing the program because I want to be working 5.12/V6 outside by next fall. Front Range Climber with tons of dream projects (V6/V7/5.12a) picked out.
Thanks!