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Post by MDP on Apr 8, 2015 10:53:41 GMT -7
While I am in the midst of a sport climbing cycle I can't help but think about a bouldering goal I have this fall. I want to do a boulder problem at Donner Summit, CA. The first move feels way hard to me and I want to target it specifically because the rest of it is already possible. Basically, the move is a long move to a jug on a steep wall with a flat jug undercling for both hands. My feet are out in front of me. If you care to watch, here is a link of someone doing the boulder problem, though its not a great angle of the first move: www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuWqRoaQiVQMy thoughts are that the move is very bicep and core intensive. The starting holds are good and the hold you are going to is also good so finger strength is not the issue here. Anyone have thoughts? Thank you for any input.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 8, 2015 18:34:04 GMT -7
It sounds like you aren't intending to replicate the move on plastic, but if you are, check out this thread: rockprodigytraining.proboards.com/thread/462/using-simulated-training-routeThe move looks to me like a levering manuever, where core stability would be really important. I can see how bicep/undercling strength would be important as well. It's not clear how he generates momentum for the throw; that could be a factor as well. Finally, it looks like dynamic accuracy is fairly important, and you will be dynoing from a rather awkward position. I would work on core, specifically in the lower back area, biceps, and extended roof dynos....
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Post by MDP on Apr 11, 2015 13:55:05 GMT -7
Thanks for the input Mark. I don't know why I didn't think about a simulator but I should totally do that.
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