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Post by ehowell on Jun 21, 2016 18:56:51 GMT -7
So 3 grips, but you've already identified a neglected pinky, so add something for that and you're at 4 grips. But you have no warmup set so you need to spend some extra time warming up before hitting the hangboard (no net time saving). And you haven't trained any thumb/pinch strength (ok if you don't anticipate any on your project). So with a pinch and a warm-up 6 holds starts to look like the minimum. I am including warmup, but did not mention it here. And one of the three grips mentioned is the pinch, so thumb is covered. Compared to warm-up + 6 grips at 3 sets each, I'm still thinking WU + 3-4 grips at 3 sets each.
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Post by ehowell on Jun 21, 2016 19:04:06 GMT -7
I think if you really wanted to pair it down, the "basic" grips are: open edge, closed crimp, pinch. It would probably be smart to throw in MR, since 2 finger pockets are fairly common, and most likely the open edge grip will use different MR joint angles than a true MR pocket (especially if it's only 1-pad deep). In addition to those 4, I do IM and M. I would agree those are relatively redundant/derivative and/or infrequently encountered outside. However, one advantage to including them is that they can be strategically placed in the workout to space-out the more important grips.
Mark, do you not think the spacer grips are not just contributing to overall fatigue? Maybe a rhetorical question, but do you think your pinch strength would be stronger without the extra grips? I sense they're not completely filler in your mind though. I do understand wanting to space things out, as I find it hard to avoid back-to-back holds of a similar variety.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 22, 2016 7:30:09 GMT -7
The M and IM grips are so different (from the Pinch) that I don't think they impact it at all. I think IM and SCC definitely interfere (the I finger is pretty much in the exact same position for both grips, and M is pretty close), so I do the more important grip (SCC) first, and take what I can get on IM.
And yes, I want to train those grips (especially M). They are not just spacers, but that is another advantage to do them (for me).
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mclay
Junior Member
Posts: 96
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Post by mclay on Nov 7, 2016 6:22:04 GMT -7
This thread seems to be the occasional place for questions on this subject. I'm training almost exclusively for an area that requires good edge and crimp strength. I have an antiquated hangboard I picked up in South Africa, but I'm hoping to purchase the RP Training Centre when I'm back in the USA next year. For the next few training cycles I'm stuck with what I have.
This is my first go at the Intermediate HB routine. It's been my best Strength phase so far. I'm in that beginner sweet spot where I'm seeing regular gains. For the foreseeable future I will be training for goal routes that are almost entirely devoid of pockets, slopers or tufas. With that in mind, I also want to build up long-term, all-around finger strength for climbing in my old age. Could someone critique my grip selection? I've modified the Intermediate routine given in the RCTM.
1. Warm-up jug 2. Large open-hand edge - My board doesn't have this grip, so I modify the jug by only grabbing with 4 fingers at 2 pad depth on the outer part of the jug. 3. Small edge - I moved this forward in the workout to prioritize it as mentioned earlier in the thread. It is the smaller of the two edges on my board. I open hand this grip with 4 fingers; pinky only partially able to engage. My rough measurement has this edge at 13 mm. 4. MR 1-pad 2 finger pocket - I kept this grip in the workout since most outdoor pockets seem to be 2 finger. Also moved it to this slot in the workout to break up the edges and it is a higher injury potential hold. 5. Medium edge - Rough measurement is 20 mm. I half-crimp this edge. 6. IMR 1-pad 3 finger pocket - Technically a pocket grip, but the lack of variety on my board - pocket depth is roughly the same as edge depth - makes this 3-finger open-hand edge grip, more or less. 7. Wide pinch 8. "Narrow" pinch - Having never used a RP Training Centre or one of the other popular hangboards I can't truly compare, but this grip seems really awkward on my board.
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erk
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by erk on Nov 7, 2016 14:22:28 GMT -7
I feel like I would move the large open hand edge towards the end of the routine, because it is a little less defined. Is there a way you can put up some cardboard or something behind the jug to make the hold constant?
Maybe ditch the narrow pinch too. Unless you need it specifically for something (which it sounds like you don't), I don't like grips that are awkward. They tend to kill my psyche if I have a bad last set. And I like to carry that psyche in the the supplemental exercises.
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Post by daustin on Nov 7, 2016 15:00:28 GMT -7
I'd also ditch whichever pinch you think is less relevant for your near- and/or long-term needs.
I also might move the pinch into slot 6, to give a little break in terms of grip type between the Medium Edge and IMR sets.
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mclay
Junior Member
Posts: 96
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Post by mclay on Nov 9, 2016 2:52:07 GMT -7
Thanks for the advice. I'll put it into practice in the near future and try to report back.
The open hand large edge is as consistent as I can make it currently due to the shape of the jug grip and the "feel" I can get on the 2-pads of my fingers. I think I will keep the wide pinch but drop the narrow for the reason you listed, but also because I think I've read earlier in the thread that the benefits of the wide pinch might be more conducive to my long-term goal of broad strength gains and injury prevention.
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mclay
Junior Member
Posts: 96
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Post by mclay on Nov 14, 2016 5:45:16 GMT -7
I finished HB5 yesterday using the new grip selection and order - 1. Warm-up jug, 2. Large open-hand edge, 3. Small edge, 4. MR 1-pad 2 finger pocket, 5. Medium edge, 6. Wide pinch 7. IMR 1-pad 3 finger pocket/edge.
The wide pinch is still the weakest grip and seems to have plateaued. However, the main objective of increasing strength on edges has been very rewarding. I'm gaining each session and the second set with added weight often feels easier than the first set.
Also, with only using 6 grips, excluding the jug, I feel a lot fresher at the end of the workout. 7 or 8 grips just seemed to push my body to the point of not wanting to do anything else for quite awhile; not to mention the thrashing my skin was taking. So for the time being (edge dominated goal routes) I think this number and order feels about right for me.
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Post by Chris W on Dec 4, 2017 19:31:12 GMT -7
So I just finished my hangboarding for my transitional winter season. It looks like I've hit a plateau, and haven't set a new PB on my grips in 4 to 7 seasons, depending on the grip (4 hangboard seasons per year). Should I keep things as they are and work through the plateau? Change grips slightly to try and spark new development? Move from 9 HB sessions to 10 HB sessions per season?
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Post by tetrault on Dec 6, 2017 9:53:41 GMT -7
I wish I had sound advice for breaking through a plateau. I have tried more HB sessions for 2 seasons now, but not sure if it is worth the time not climbing. This last season, as I got close to my PR's, I switched to adding 2.5lbs between sessions instead of 5lbs. "Worked" for 2 grips (as in, I beat my recent PRs by 2.5lbs), and was a disaster for 2 grips (regressed every workout after failing as I neared recent PRs). Didn't really make a difference on the other 2 out of 6 total grips (missed my PRs by a little, but had what i consider a reasonable HB period).
When I switched grips slightly, I just get better numbers if a similar grip is earlier in the workout, and worse if later. I sort of regret a few of my grip changes as it makes it more difficult to compare to past #'s.
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Post by Chris W on Dec 6, 2017 21:06:20 GMT -7
Yeah, I've thought about increasing the weight by 2.5, but decided against it. I'm not totally crushed by the plateau, since my climbing is improving, but I'm wondering if there is any benefit to changing things or just pressing on. At the very least, my numbers aren't regressing. I have had a few ups and downs in the last 7 seasons, but all within about 5-10 pounds of my PB.
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Post by daustin on Dec 6, 2017 21:45:33 GMT -7
Maybe try to push back when you’re targeting the PB, and therefore starting HB1 at a lower baseline? E.g., if you normally start HB1 at +20 and are aiming for a PB of +40 at HB5, try starting HB1 at +10 or even at BW, giving yourself more quality workouts at lower resistance before trying to hit the PB in HB7-9.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 7, 2017 12:26:04 GMT -7
Maybe try to push back when you’re targeting the PB, and therefore starting HB1 at a lower baseline? E.g., if you normally start HB1 at +20 and are aiming for a PB of +40 at HB5, try starting HB1 at +10 or even at BW, giving yourself more quality workouts at lower resistance before trying to hit the PB in HB7-9. I do something similar— I will start at my typical baseline, but when I start stagnating on a grip I drop the resistance 10-20 lb and continue. The catch is that you may need to do a lot more workouts after stepping back to reap the rewards. This works best when you identify a plateau early in the phase, or when you don’t have a firm end-date and can add workouts if you’re still improving.
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Post by jonfrisby on Dec 7, 2017 12:58:30 GMT -7
Try other protocols. I find that repeater plateaus and max hang plateaus can be addressed by doing the other type of workout.
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Post by Chris W on Dec 7, 2017 13:54:09 GMT -7
So, I'm currently setting the weights to hit my PB at HB 7 out of 9, if I'm adding 5 pounds to each completed grip each session. Should I be setting them to hit the PB at HB 8 out of 9, or maybe HB 8 out of 10? Or even 9 out of 10? I've never done 10 HB workouts in a strength phase, but I'm not opposed to it.
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