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Post by avaserfi on Dec 20, 2015 12:35:20 GMT -7
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Post by Chris W on Mar 1, 2016 3:21:03 GMT -7
After every phase and every season, I conduct a review (sometimes a post mortem) of my notes and training. Although I just enjoyed a record breaking spring HB phase, I'm considering, for next hangboard season, rotating my HB mounts so that the flat grips (like the crimps and slopers) follow an angle similar to that of the VDER or wide pinch. This would be to make the grips more comfortable, in part for my fingers but mainly for my shoulders.
I've had issues with pain in my shoulders, particularly around my AC joints. I've found that the wide pinch puts my shoulders in the most comfortable position [the easiest position to pack my shoulder blades down and into my back to stabilize the whole shoulder girdle].
1) Anyone have experience rotating their board this way? 2) Do you think this type of board position would shift the stress of the forge crimp away from the fingers and place more weight on the thumbs (which I don't want)?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 1, 2016 13:29:39 GMT -7
Mike's "Adjustable HB Mount 3.0" post talks about shimming the hangers to rotate each half of the board.
As far as which angle, I've experimented a lot with different angles for closed crimping, and I prefer a slightly gaston-ey angle of around 3 degrees. It sounds like you are talking about rotating them the opposite direction. The trouble with the closed crimp, is that it's often easier to use a semi-closed grip, so you need to force yourself to maintain the closed grip. Rotating the edges can help or hurt this problem. I like the gaston-ey rotation because it pretty much forces my I fingers to crimp in order to stay in contact with the hold. On the other hand, it discourages the P's from crimping. But now that I think about it, I was dicking around with rotation long before I devised the Thumb Wrap solution, so maybe with the Forge "Thumb Support" maintaining a crimp position wouldn't be a problem regardless of rotation.
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Post by Chris W on Mar 1, 2016 18:06:06 GMT -7
If my shoulders bother me enough, I may not have much of a choice. I've added some external rotation work to my ever growing list of rehab/prehab exercises on my climbing days. It wouldn't be such an issue if it weren't for my hangboard scrupulosity. For this season, I re-did my mounts to place my boards on French cleats (and thus move each half in an successful effort to care for my shoulders). This was certainly helpful, but took GREAT pains to ensure the mounts were even and exactly level. I hate to monkey around with them again.
PS, now would be a great time for Mike to chime in and post his thoughts about rotating his board. Tell him I'll buy him a giant Chick-fila chocolate chip cookie if he does.
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Post by mikael on Mar 2, 2016 5:16:43 GMT -7
Yet another grip sequence change?
Preparing for the coming HB weeks I'm thinking about changing things a little bit. Main reason for this is that my sloper grip is my weakest link and I would like it to improve the most.
Previous schedule: 1. Large jug (warm-up) 2. Open three 3. Crimp 4. Sloper 5. MRP 6. Wide pinch 7. Narrow pinch (if there is time left)
New schedule: 1. Large jug (warm-up) 2. Slopers 3. Open three 4. Crimp 5. MRP 6. Wide pinch 7. Narrow pinch (if there is time left)
- I want to do slopers early when I'm the freshest. - My crimp is my strongest grip, seeing less gains here would not affect much - Doing crimp and slopers back-to-back was really tough, interchaning with an open grip might help.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 3, 2016 14:35:07 GMT -7
If you really want to emphasize slopers, I think that order is a pretty good way to do it. Sometimes I find my first "real" grip isn't the best though, so you may want move up something else in the #2 spot (maybe MRP or one of the pinches?).
That said, I'm curious to hear why slopers are so important to you. Are you primarily a gym or comp climber? It's suprising that you're willing to sacrifice gains in crimp strength. I think most rock climbers would want the opposite.
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Post by mikael on Mar 4, 2016 0:42:40 GMT -7
If you really want to emphasize slopers, I think that order is a pretty good way to do it. Sometimes I find my first "real" grip isn't the best though, so you may want move up something else in the #2 spot (maybe MRP or one of the pinches?). That said, I'm curious to hear why slopers are so important to you. Are you primarily a gym or comp climber? It's suprising that you're willing to sacrifice gains in crimp strength. I think most rock climbers would want the opposite. I'm planning a trip to Font But the serious answer is that after evaluating my last HB weeks I can see big gains in crimp strength –and my crimps were already strong– but hardly no gains at all on the slopers. The slopers become the weekest link in trying to be an allround climber. I mainly climb indoors and outdoors (*) . No comps. Starting next training season in a week I plan to focus on bouldering. (*) After reading RCTM I train indoors and climb outdoors
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 4, 2016 8:17:09 GMT -7
Ok, cool! Always wanted to go there. Keep in many that many people find that sloper training on a hangboard can be very condition-dependent, so make an effort to control the temp and humidity and keep it constant throughout your phase.
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Post by scojo on Jun 17, 2016 19:25:38 GMT -7
Read through this whole thread (okay I skimmed some parts) and gained a lot of good insights, but have a couple more questions.
I've been using the beginner hangboard protocol and seeing a lot of progress. I'm following the timing schemes and grip order as it is in RCTM, but am only hangboarding once a week. I've seen a lot of progress, but I feel like I'm starting to hit a plateau on some grips.
For the IMR deep pocket, I was adding 5 lb nearly every workout until I hit +40 lb. I'm now getting the issue where the skin on my 2nd pads is bunching up resulting in pain and loss of psyche. Earlier in the thread Mark suggesting taping the 2nd pad and lowering the weight. Another option would be to switch to the a 1 pad pocket. Would there be any disadvantage to doing this? The 1 pad pocket grip is probably more common for climbing along the front range. Right now I don't have any long term projects, so I'm not too concerned with specificity for my hangboard grips.
I reckon I'll stick with the beginner routine for a while, but I noticed something strange with the grip selection for the intermediate routine in the RCTM. ie. it's suggested to use the MR shallow pocket and the IMR deep pocket. Why the deep pocket for IMR (which should be a lot stronger) and shallow for MR? I know these are just suggestions, but I'm curious where this choice comes from.
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Post by Chris W on Jun 17, 2016 20:33:37 GMT -7
I've switched grips because of skin pain, using smaller holds and less weight while still training the desired grip position. Worked well for me.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 20, 2016 13:31:59 GMT -7
I reckon I'll stick with the beginner routine for a while, but I noticed something strange with the grip selection for the intermediate routine in the RCTM. ie. it's suggested to use the MR shallow pocket and the IMR deep pocket. Why the deep pocket for IMR (which should be a lot stronger) and shallow for MR? I know these are just suggestions, but I'm curious where this choice comes from. Good question. Unfortunately I don't remember what we were thinking at that time. I will say however, that we spent a ridiculous amount of time thinking about it, so we probably had a good reason.
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Post by ehowell on Jun 21, 2016 13:10:15 GMT -7
Apologies if this has already been addressed, but what are the thoughts on limiting grips, especially once you're on the 3 sets/grip program (Advanced)? I prefer the timing and repeater style workout outlined by Mike and Mark, but I think Steve Maisch makes a good point on limiting to just a few grips, outlined here. I feel that there's got to be a lot of overlap while doing 6-7 grips at 3 sets each, not to mention that it's immensely draining (physically/mentally) and time consuming to be hangboarding that long! I think a basic half crimp, pinch, and MR pocket does cover the bases, except maybe slightly ignoring the pinky, which started off this thread in the first place. Maybe throw in a MRP or RP and call it a day?
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nate
New Member
Posts: 15
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Post by nate on Jun 21, 2016 13:34:57 GMT -7
I think a basic half crimp, pinch, and MR pocket does cover the bases, except maybe slightly ignoring the pinky, which started off this thread in the first place. Maybe throw in a MRP or RP and call it a day? So 3 grips, but you've already identified a neglected pinky, so add something for that and you're at 4 grips. But you have no warmup set so you need to spend some extra time warming up before hitting the hangboard (no net time saving). And you haven't trained any thumb/pinch strength (ok if you don't anticipate any on your project). So with a pinch and a warm-up 6 holds starts to look like the minimum. All that said, you could likely improve your climbing with a careful hangboarding regimen on even a single hold, so anything on the spectrum is likely to work.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 21, 2016 13:57:15 GMT -7
Apologies if this has already been addressed, but what are the thoughts on limiting grips, especially once you're on the 3 sets/grip program (Advanced)? I prefer the timing and repeater style workout outlined by Mike and Mark, but I think Steve Maisch makes a good point on limiting to just a few grips, outlined here. I feel that there's got to be a lot of overlap while doing 6-7 grips at 3 sets each, not to mention that it's immensely draining (physically/mentally) and time consuming to be hangboarding that long! I think a basic half crimp, pinch, and MR pocket does cover the bases, except maybe slightly ignoring the pinky, which started off this thread in the first place. Maybe throw in a MRP or RP and call it a day? I think if you really wanted to pair it down, the "basic" grips are: open edge, closed crimp, pinch. It would probably be smart to throw in MR, since 2 finger pockets are fairly common, and most likely the open edge grip will use different MR joint angles than a true MR pocket (especially if it's only 1-pad deep). In addition to those 4, I do IM and M. I would agree those are relatively redundant/derivative and/or infrequently encountered outside. However, one advantage to including them is that they can be strategically placed in the workout to space-out the more important grips. With that in mind, you could look at my workout thusly:
Large Edge--Warmup MR--last warmup+important grip Closed Crimp --critical grip M--Spacer SCC--critical grip IM--spacer Pinch--important grip
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Post by Lundy on Jun 21, 2016 14:08:47 GMT -7
This is exactly what I do. I warm up on my woody, then go to: SCC Crimp Pinch MR
Doesn't take too long and hits all the critical joint angles in your fingers, as well as all the most common grips you might find. Granted the first set of my SCC is sometimes a struggle, but by first doing 45 minutes on the wall, I get going pretty quickly on the HB.
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