Recovery after strenght training vs being fresh for training

[Fred]

Hi,

I'm wondering what would be the best in a non-linear training plan, to get the most gain out of a Strength training: is it better to plan 2 days off before the training to be fresh or 2 days off after the training for recovery?

What would be the impact of training Strength if not fully recovered from Redpoint days?

[Chris W]

Not quite sure I understand the question.

I don't train strength at the same time I'm trying to redpoint. My climbing specific strength training is hangboarding. My plan is Day 1 HB, Day 2 supplemental strength training, day 3 rest, repeat.

[cozisco]

That's an interesting question. What type of strength workout? What type of non-linear training plan? Are you using a year-round NLP or switching to something more non-linear during the performance phase in order to extend a performance peak? If it's the latter, I don't think most people include a pure strength (hangboarding) in that NLP schedule. It's more common to include hard/limit bouldering or campusing in order to maintain strength/power for an extended peak.

That being said, I would take two days off after the strength workout to fully recover so that I can (a) be fresh on my redpoint days and (b) make sure there's enough time to rebuild muscle following HBing.

For more info, read about Mark's NLP schedule for Shadowboxing, listen to Mark and Mike talk about it on TBP, check out Ch. 4 in the book, or read an old forum discussion about it.

[RobF]

Very interesting question - will have to have a think about that one. One thing I do do every so often is add in a brief high intensity compound movement sesh the day after redpointing etc. Something along the lines of warming up to 5 x 3 reps deadlifts / squats / cleans at around 90% max. Supposed to boost growth hormone just at the time when you need it for muscle repair from the day before...

[Fred]

Well, my point was that in a non-linear schedule, if I do hangboard 48 hours after a climbing sessions, my stats on the hangboard aren't as good as if I wait 72 hours after a climbing session. Will I still get gains If I don't wait 72 hours? Overall, If I always wait 72h before doing a Strength session, I will end up with less total sessions in a month, so is it worth it to be totally recovered before doing an Hangboard session?

Does my question makes more senses?

[climbnkev]

With a Non-Linear approach most of your concerns are dependent on your focus for the cycle. You should never be doing strength focused workouts back to back so optimum recovery is less important. It also depends on the workout you are recovering from. With a limit bouldering or performance session you are better to take extra time before your strength session.