Endurance training using new SIT study

[socrate]

Ok just wondering and would like an opinion here. Thx in advance. :-)

I just read an intersting article on a study of SIT (sprint interval training) and it's efficiency in increasing endurance. Here is the link to the article.

journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0154075

I was wondering how one would adapt this to a climbing training program.

Ex having a circuit or system wall where one could do 20s of high intensity moves. I know 20s is quite long climbing wise so I'm not sure how or if this could work.

Do you have any thoughs or comments.

Thanks again.

[MarkAnderson]

Interesting study. There could be something here, but I think we need further study before we could draw any conclusions. The authors' purpose was to determine if a lower volume of training could improve general wellness in lazy people, so I don't know how or if that translates to performance in serious athletes. I don't know enough about the "Indices of Cardiometabolic Health" to know if they would predict improved performance in a well-trained athlete.

To really draw some climbing-related conclusions you would want to test this on well-trained climbers, and determine what type of performance you were training for (not addressed in the study). Assuming you were training for redpointing, this would be like having one group do intervals of long campus sets or a single very hard boulder problem while another group ARCs. My guess is neither activity is as effective as a Linked Bouldering Circuit.

You might be able to demonstrate that either activity is as good as the other for producing low intensity endurance. Would that be surprising? A lot of strong people for a lot of years have been saying "if you have no power, you have nothing to endure", and "increasing strength increases endurance" (and variations on those themes).

[socrate]

True enough, thank you