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Post by iclimb2improve on Mar 22, 2016 11:37:22 GMT -7
What is the most efficient amount of time off from training to help heal a finger injury? I know taking too much time off often makes injuries worse since you aren't strengthening the connective tissue, but going back too quickly will not allow the inflammation to go down enough for the area to regain previous strength. I think Mark said in the book, he took three weeks off after his worst A2 pulley strain that he got on Fight or Flight, but is that long of a time necessary for minor injuries? Or can a climber go back to rehabbing the injury sooner (in a week or two)?
Just for reference, my injury is rather minor. I can still crimp with a degree of discomfort, and I have some inflammation and tenderness at the location of A2 pulley. I have been icing for 15 minutes a day for four days now and I'd like to return to training some time soon.
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Post by tedwelser on Mar 24, 2016 10:06:29 GMT -7
I took 7 days after a minor finger tweak (collat ligament) before starting in with a HB only plan for a couple weeks. After that I added in some easier climbing to the HB regime. In general I would think 7-14 days would be a good range, but it depends on how your finger is feeling.
I ended up waiting three days past the moment I realized I was pain free in normal, everyday use. I resisted the urge to start back in by doing supplementary exercises (core, antagonistic) and on planning my upcoming season in greater detail. That and beer.
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Post by iclimb2improve on Mar 25, 2016 14:46:39 GMT -7
I took 7 days after a minor finger tweak (collat ligament) before starting in with a HB only plan for a couple weeks. After that I added in some easier climbing to the HB regime. In general I would think 7-14 days would be a good range, but it depends on how your finger is feeling. I ended up waiting three days past the moment I realized I was pain free in normal, everyday use. I resisted the urge to start back in by doing supplementary exercises (core, antagonistic) and on planning my upcoming season in greater detail. That and beer. Thanks Ted! I appreciate the advice. So, my finger is feeling a lot better now after a week off of climbing, and I've started a plan for rehabbing it. I've decided to do my normal grip order (with no pinches to avoid tweaks) ) with more weight off than my normal baselines. |
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Post by jetjackson on Mar 25, 2016 22:09:56 GMT -7
Sounds like you're doing ok on the finger.
HB rehab is probably better too, because it keeps you away from the influence of others in the gym with their, hey you should try this climb here it's really fun - that can be hard to resist, and can make things worse.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 3, 2016 11:48:54 GMT -7
It really depends on the severity of the injury, the person's ability to heal, and their risk tolerance. I think a week is a good minimum for minor strain in a young healthy person who is eager to get back in action.
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