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Post by erick on Mar 3, 2016 19:00:49 GMT -7
Was hoping to get outside this weekend to do some limit bouldering but since I live in WA and its March, all of our boulders are going to be very wet. There is a crag that may have some dry rock though and I though this may be a good chance to try roped-bouldering. My question for any of you who have done this with the intention of training power, how is this different from projecting? Do you work harder routes, intentional hang on the rope at every crux so you don't start to pump out?
Any thoughts?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 3, 2016 19:36:40 GMT -7
Ya, you want to pick routes harder than you might normally project, perhaps hard enough that you can't do all the moves the first day(s). Focus most of your time on those crux moves, rather than linking the easier sections. I would avoid getting really pumped, but a light HI;LR PE pump is not the end of the world. Usually the routes I'm working when roped bouldering are too hard and brief to really have a chance at getting pumped until I'm closed to sending anyway.
It's definitely not equivalent to Limit Bouldering. Most people will have trouble trying as hard on a rope as they would on plastic boulders (perhaps that explains why many people boulder way harder in the gym than they sport climb outside).
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Post by brendann on Mar 3, 2016 22:07:42 GMT -7
Bring a good stick clip.
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Post by jessebruni on Mar 4, 2016 13:17:04 GMT -7
Most people will have trouble trying as hard on a rope as they would on plastic boulders. Its funny, I think I'm the exception to this rule. My local crag is all roped bouldering and I've absolutely climbed harder on a rope than on a boulder. Something about not having to worry about my landing whatsoever (since I'm on a rope and will just swing through the air if I fall) helps. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 4, 2016 18:41:57 GMT -7
Most people will have trouble trying as hard on a rope as they would on plastic boulders. Its funny, I think I'm the exception to this rule. My local crag is all roped bouldering and I've absolutely climbed harder on a rope than on a boulder. Something about not having to worry about my landing whatsoever (since I'm on a rope and will just swing through the air if I fall) helps. Me too. I'm a pu$$y on outdoor boulders. Indoors, I've surely done harder moves, but all my problems are short with low cruxes  |
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