Darkness at noon strength plan

[erick]

Each time through the program I have tried to follow it more closely. This time around i am training very specifically for "Darkness at Noon" at Smith. I will be moving to the advanced protocol for my HB workouts and I am using the RPTC, hopefully i can retrofit it with an adjustable mount this afternoon. HB1 is this saturday so please critic my plan...

Jug - Jug (this is mostly to prep shoulders for everything else, 1 set)
Large Edge - LVDER (largest side)
Closed Crimp - Thin Crimp edge
MR - deep or shallow 2 finger pocket
Medium Edge - SVDER (Largest side)
IMR - deep or shallow 3 finger pocket
Narrow Pinch - small pinch rail

Any suggestion on the order? If you have been on this route will I want to use deep or shallow pockets for training MR/IMR. Is it redundant to train MR and IMR? Since I will be training the Large edge and closed crimp should I drop the medium edge? Anything missing?

Along with standard supplemental exercises are there any other things I should take into consideration to prep for this climb?

Eric

[MarkAnderson]

Go with all shallow pockets and take weight off for Darkness. Also I would use something smaller for your "Medium Edge", like somewhere near the middle of the SVDER.

I would do MRP or IM instead of IMR, but I don't think either will be especially useful.

Regarding order, are you treating Large Edge as a serious grip that you are training hard and progressing on (as opposed to a warmup)? If so, I would do it near the end, maybe 2nd to last. Maybe swap it with IMR or whatever you do in its place.

[erick]

Ok how about this,

Jug (1 set)
Closed Crimp
MR (Shallow)
Medium edge (middle of SVDER)
MRP (for pinky training and to separate edges)
Large Edge
Narrow Pinch

[MarkAnderson]

That looks good. The one concern is that if you do the closed crimp that early in the workout you need to make sure you are thoroughly warmed up before you start (many people find that grip in particular is more dependent on a good warm up than other grips). I usually do it as my second "real" grip so I can have a chance to get firing on all cylinders. Some folks like to start with a warmup set of lower intensity crimping specifically to prepare for that grip.

Another option would be:

Jug (1 set)
MRP (for pinky training and to separate edges)
Closed Crimp
MR (Shallow)
Medium edge (middle of SVDER)
Narrow Pinch
Large Edge

I can't say which option is better though.

[slimshaky]

i agree w/ mark - you want to be completely warmed up for the small crimp. i think if you swapped your crimp and medium edge (in your last list) you would probably be ok. i am also a big IM guy, but i haven't been on DTN so i don't know if that would be helpful or not. for me, if a route will have a lot of small pockets i like to be as strong as possible on both MR and IM, so I have options for dealing with my greatly differing finger lengths.