Disparity between beginning of cycle and peak

[DGK101]

After recently completing a full cycle complete with some great sends at the end, I got to thinking.  Who else sees a huge difference between their performance peak and the beginning of the next cycle?  In the past year I have sent some 5.13 sport routes and a v10 boulder problem, all of which were personal bests by a good margin.  I take some rest and at the beginning of the next season I am shocked by how weak/unfit/out of shape I seem.  Who else experiences this?  I also find that even though I can feel fitness going by the end of my performance phase, I don't completely lose it until I let go mentally.  As soon as in my mind I decide the season is over, it is like overnight my abilities are gone.  This also ties in with a concept I think about sometimes which I think of as "baseline abilities." This is basically my abilities off the couch which are usually about 12a and v5/6.  Some people seem to have higher "baseline" and less intense peaks and valleys in performance.  I have also noticed really no change in my baseline ability and basically start at the same place each season even though I keep sending harder and harder during my peak times. 

Anyone else experience this?

[jetjackson]

I'm on my second cycle now.

On my first cycle on the hangboard I was adding 20 pounds on IMRP small edge, and on the 1/4 pad crimp I was down to -5 pounds. Now I am struggling to do 4 reps at BW on IMRP small edge, and in my second session I only just made the final rep on 6 reps of -30 on 1/4 pad.

That's my only reference point. I understand strength loss is typical, but I didn't realize it would be so dramatic. I figured that dropping back to the weights I was using in the 3rd session of hangboarding in the last season, that it would feel pretty easy for the first few sessions, leading up to maybe starting to struggle in the 4th or 5th session of the HB training. I'm only 2 sessions in and already I'm failing on some holds, albeit in the second or last reps.  

[MarkAnderson]

In my experience it's completely normal to return to baseline by the beginning of your next training cycle. However, if you stick with it for enough time, remain consistent in your training and avoid injuries, your baseline will steadily improve. I dare say my "off the couch" baseline is ~14a (that is, I could work and send a 14a in a reasonable number of days without doing any formal training in advance). That's really amazing when you consider how absurdly hard and long I had to work to do my first few 5.14s. Or maybe it's not when you consider it's taken nearly 15 years to get here

I think you make a great point about letting go mentally. It seems there are a lot of little things we need to keep together to perform at our peak (like body weight, skin, visualization, self-confidence, sleep, nutrition, logistics) and once we let go of the tension/stress surrounding our goals, all those things fold over night. Each one may make a tiny difference, but when you put them all together the difference can be massive. A lot of it is probably in our heads. I think we derive a lot of confidence from the knowledge that we've trained hard to get where we are, and that helps us try hard, 'go for it', and so on.  Once we decide "I'm out of shape" we lose that confidence and everything that comes with it instantly.  (Although clearly there are people who can summon that effort regardless of their perceived fitness level).

I agree there are many examples of climbers with higher baselines, and some seem to have less significant peaks. It's a fascinating question, but hard to answer in general terms since there could be any number of variables at play. I would guess in many cases the most significant physical variables are genetics and work ethic (although some have supposed that work ethic is also genetically influenced, so maybe that statement is redundant). In other words, some people are more responsive to training than others, and some people try harder and/or are more dedicated than others. On the mental side, many people simply doubt their ability to improve. In my experience I really do need to believe I can climb something in order to send it, and I'm generally pretty skeptical.  Some people can't get to the "next level" because they don't believe.  Training helps convince the doubters in us by providing microscopic increments of improvement on a near daily basis, along with a written record of demonstrable proof.