Post by hajekmarek on Dec 20, 2015 10:39:33 GMT -7
This is the first time I’ve done a training program even though I’ve been climbing for 23+ years. I’ve been meaning to research how to train but with kids and busy jobs never found the time. The RC training manual is awesome. All the research I’ve been meaning to do has been done for me, analyzed, synthesized, and tested. I can’t thank you enough. I am loving the scheduled and systematic training plan. I’ve only finished a few books in my life, this was one of them. Even the chapter on nutrition, which I assumed would be boring as hell, held my attention.
I am just finishing the hang board phase (beginner) and have a few questions.
1. How does a beginner find baseline? Let’s say I am a beginner and have never done a hangboard cycle. Here are my questions.
Page 115 of the manual hits a few key points but a beginner like myself is still left with a few questions. Quoting from the manual, “The climber should begin each Strength Phase by returning to near baseline for each grip, then ratchet up the resistance as necessary to achieve the desired training stimulus.”
Let’s say, for example, I do a Large Edge at body weight and do not find I am near failure at the end of the set. What next? The beginner routine only calls for 1 set, do I try a second set with added weight? Do I wait till the next workout 3 days later? I assume it’s probably dangerous trying to find point of failure by doing multiple sets with increased weight as the first hangboard workout in the first cycle, so I am guessing it might be best to try again 3 days later.
When searching for a baseline, let’s say, body weight felt moderately difficult during first workout but didn’t achieve near failure, do I try to overshoot it a little during HB #2 and add, say, 15 lbs to see what happens in order to achieve more of a binary search instead of an exhaustive one (software engineering terms, sorry)? Then, evaluate the overshoot and take a best guess at where baseline is. An exhaustive search is difficult because the body will adapt from the previous training session, so simply adding 5 lbs during the next session will most likely not yield a point of failure either.
I assume there is risk of injury if the climber tries to add too much weight. Perhaps, in the next edition of the training manual, the algorithm for establishing baseline resistance could be defined a little more thoroughly for beginners.
2. Ok, let’s say the first beginner workout cycle yields a baseline. What’s the best way to establish a baseline when the next training cycle comes along? It took a little bit of fiddling around trying to discover what my baseline was for each hold. Even, after several workouts, I discovered that chalk tremendously helps on the pinch grips – I started without chalk up to that point. What can I say, I am a hangboard beginner. Would you start with previous baseline + 5 lbs. when getting to the next training cycle?
3. I am a big fan of recovery exercises. The manual suggests doing an ARC session the day after an HB workout. What are your thoughts on doing recovery exercises the same day? For example, if I do a hangboard workout in the morning, is there any benefit to doing an ARC session in the evening when I take the kids to the gym?
4. I’ve been adding 5 lbs. of weight to each successive HB workout, however, while the first two or three workout felt like I was at my limit when doing the last rep, surprising, the subsequent workouts did not. Is adding 5 lbs. just a rule of thumb? Should I be adding as much weight as necessary to achieve near failure during last rep?
Thanks much!
I am just finishing the hang board phase (beginner) and have a few questions.
1. How does a beginner find baseline? Let’s say I am a beginner and have never done a hangboard cycle. Here are my questions.
Page 115 of the manual hits a few key points but a beginner like myself is still left with a few questions. Quoting from the manual, “The climber should begin each Strength Phase by returning to near baseline for each grip, then ratchet up the resistance as necessary to achieve the desired training stimulus.”
Let’s say, for example, I do a Large Edge at body weight and do not find I am near failure at the end of the set. What next? The beginner routine only calls for 1 set, do I try a second set with added weight? Do I wait till the next workout 3 days later? I assume it’s probably dangerous trying to find point of failure by doing multiple sets with increased weight as the first hangboard workout in the first cycle, so I am guessing it might be best to try again 3 days later.
When searching for a baseline, let’s say, body weight felt moderately difficult during first workout but didn’t achieve near failure, do I try to overshoot it a little during HB #2 and add, say, 15 lbs to see what happens in order to achieve more of a binary search instead of an exhaustive one (software engineering terms, sorry)? Then, evaluate the overshoot and take a best guess at where baseline is. An exhaustive search is difficult because the body will adapt from the previous training session, so simply adding 5 lbs during the next session will most likely not yield a point of failure either.
I assume there is risk of injury if the climber tries to add too much weight. Perhaps, in the next edition of the training manual, the algorithm for establishing baseline resistance could be defined a little more thoroughly for beginners.
2. Ok, let’s say the first beginner workout cycle yields a baseline. What’s the best way to establish a baseline when the next training cycle comes along? It took a little bit of fiddling around trying to discover what my baseline was for each hold. Even, after several workouts, I discovered that chalk tremendously helps on the pinch grips – I started without chalk up to that point. What can I say, I am a hangboard beginner. Would you start with previous baseline + 5 lbs. when getting to the next training cycle?
3. I am a big fan of recovery exercises. The manual suggests doing an ARC session the day after an HB workout. What are your thoughts on doing recovery exercises the same day? For example, if I do a hangboard workout in the morning, is there any benefit to doing an ARC session in the evening when I take the kids to the gym?
4. I’ve been adding 5 lbs. of weight to each successive HB workout, however, while the first two or three workout felt like I was at my limit when doing the last rep, surprising, the subsequent workouts did not. Is adding 5 lbs. just a rule of thumb? Should I be adding as much weight as necessary to achieve near failure during last rep?
Thanks much!