Intensity vs. # of sets

[jerry123]

I'm doing a beginner 9 set hangboard routine and I feel that I am lowering the intensity of the beginning or easier sets a bit so I don't burn out before I complete all 9 sets.

Is it better to push it harder and possibly not finish? I was thinking of replacing the harder sets with easier sets(2 finger to 3 finger) and maybe trying to push the intensity.

Any one have any thoughts?

Thanks

[erick]

If I understand your question, your doing the beginner protocol so 1 set of 6 reps with 10 sec hang and 5 sec rests and you are worried that you are too fatigued to do the last sets effectively. I would suggest you put your hardest(weakest) or most important grips at the beginning of your workout. So if the two finger pocket is the most important grip for you to improve on then I would do it first, followed closely by you next most important grip and so on. The first time I did the my strength phase I put a small edge toward the end and made little progress on it the whole time. The next time I moved the small edge up to the top because it was a very important grip for me and I made MAJOR progress on it. Whatever your order just make sure you keep the intensity up as high as you can, if you complete the set then make it harder the next time.

I would choose with ever pocket 2f or 3f closer matches the hold you will find on your goal route. No need to train the 2f if all your holds allow for 3. Either way make sure the intensity is a high as you can do. I hope that helps.

[daustin]

Dec 9, 2015 15:27:08 GMT -7 erick said:

If I understand your question, your doing the beginner protocol so 1 set of 6 reps with 10 sec hang and 5 sec rests and you are worried that you are too fatigued to do the last sets effectively. I would suggest you put your hardest(weakest) or most important grips at the beginning of your workout. So if the two finger pocket is the most important grip for you to improve on then I would do it first, followed closely by you next most important grip and so on. The first time I did the my strength phase I put a small edge toward the end and made little progress on it the whole time. The next time I moved the small edge up to the top because it was a very important grip for me and I made MAJOR progress on it. Whatever your order just make sure you keep the intensity up as high as you can, if you complete the set then make it harder the next time.

I would choose with ever pocket 2f or 3f closer matches the hold you will find on your goal route. No need to train the 2f if all your holds allow for 3. Either way make sure the intensity is a high as you can do. I hope that helps.

I agree with your comment about putting the hardest/tweakiest grips earlier in the set. If you're doing this, and still unable to complete every set in your workout (or come really close to completing them), then you probably need to back off the resistance a bit. Ideally you want to find resistance that makes it really fucking hard to complete your sets, but not so hard that you can't come close to completing them. This can take a little time and practice to figure out, so it's always better to stay on the safe side and use a lower resistance when in doubt. You can always increase the resistance in later workouts.

Regarding your second comment about 2F or 3F -- I actually don't totally agree. For me personally, I rarely encounter 2F pockets at the grade level I'm climbing at, and the crags I go to don't have many pockets even at harder grades . I still consider 2F pockets among my most important grips for hangboard training, because they are pretty weak compared to other grips. It might not be critical for my next performance phase, but with a view to the longer term, I want to make sure my tendons are conditioned for 2F grips for when I inevitably do start needing them (either at harder grades or at other crags).

[jerry123]

Thanks for the feedback