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Post by erick on Nov 22, 2015 21:52:50 GMT -7
I am working the intermediate campus routine from "the Book" and I cannot complete a single set of double dynos no matter what size rung I use. This is my second season doing campus workouts. During the first season I did one of the beginner workouts and it was pretty easy and then two more of the intermediate workouts. I have made progress on the max ladder but double dynos continue to thwart me. I have made no progress on them. I usually try two sets on the intermediate rungs and cannot latch the B2. I then 2 sets on the large rungs and cannot latch B2 still. After that I end my session. Should I still be working the double dynos but on the largest/medium rungs or is their another workout I should do instead?
Eric
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Sander
Junior Member
Posts: 61
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Post by Sander on Nov 23, 2015 3:19:01 GMT -7
I have done the intermediate routine without the doubles for two seasons, because I feared elbow injuries. I only did ladders. I think max ladders are great power training, also without the doubles. That said, I started doing doubles in my third season. At first I couldn't stick a single one of them, but during the fourth training something clicked and I started progressing rapidly. What helped was starting with a simpler exercise: jumping up from the ground and latching rungs with both hands. First with a low jump, then higher and higher.
Although ladders aren't very climbing specific, I'd say there are two reasons to do them: * They are great at improving contact strength * They help building spatial awareness (althoug I'm not really sure how applicable this is to real climbing) So lets say the first is the primary reason: contact strength. As long as you aren't latching a single rung you aren't building much contact strength and just risking finger injuries. Maybe starting with the easier jumping variation can help you kickstart the doubles. Otherwise I'd just leave them for a season or two and focus on the more climbing specific max ladders.
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Post by brendann on Nov 23, 2015 9:04:45 GMT -7
Sander has great advice. Doubles are a technique-heavy exercise. They also take a huge amount of commitment. Another way to practice is to jump up to a pullup bar. If you are lucky enough to have a Rogue system, some have double/offset pullup bars to practice on. It is incredibly important to stay "engaged" through the whole exercise. If you are not strong enough to keep a bit (10 degrees) of bend in your elbows and shoulders through the entire jump/latch, you should not do doubles. Dropping slack onto your shoulders after you have caught the rung can result in serious injuries.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 23, 2015 18:03:23 GMT -7
FWIW, I almost never do doubles. I'd guess it's been about a year since I did my last Double.
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Post by erick on Nov 23, 2015 21:09:40 GMT -7
Thanks for the advice. I think I will either try to work on just jumping up and latching a high rung or dropping doubles all together. If I drop them would you all recommend I just do more max ladders or some other exercise maybe go-agains or touches?
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erk
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by erk on Feb 21, 2016 22:54:32 GMT -7
FWIW, I almost never do doubles. I'd guess it's been about a year since I did my last Double. Any reason why? I love doing double dynos. I feel like they are great for improving my contact strength.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 22, 2016 10:32:24 GMT -7
I don't think they're very specific, and I'd rather spend that time doing Max Ladders.
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