When to end your season

[Chris W]

I've hit a decision point. I am currently so close to sending my project it's ludicrous, but the job's not done. I've got the route wired now, can send the crux 'from the dog' every time, and keep falling on RP attempt at the final throw to the hold to end the crux and all but finish the route. I can't possibly climb more efficiently without changing my beta through the crux, which I'm reluctant to do at this point.

At the same time, I was supposed to end my performance phase a week ago. My power is noticeably and measurably declining and my strength, though still adequate, is failing as well. My hands, fingers, and forearms feel good, but my AC joints, glenohumeral joints and deltoids all ache. My neck feels tweaky and my traps are tight and sore.

My psych is high, but I also really want to do some fun things with the family for a while.

Now, I'm trying to decide if I should try to hang on to my fitness for a little while longer, or rest, rebuild, retrain and send in the spring. It will be a long time to be off the rock, but I can enjoy my training and some winter bouldering in the mean time.

I realize the answer is debatable and highly personal...

[ericg]

How often are you trying the route? It seems like if your deltoids ache you might not be getting enough rest between days on. If you feel are getting plenty of rest then I would incorporate some deltoid work into your next strength phase and/or base phase.

Personally, if your fingers are feeling fine, I would do a couple strength/power tune up workouts and give the route a couple days after that.

[MarkAnderson]

Ya, that's always a tough decision. It sounds like you're really close. If I were at the point where I thought I had a good chance to send "next go", I wouldn't quit unless some external factor forced my hand (such as, a big snow storm that makes the route unclimbable for a while, flu-or-worse sickness that will put me out for a week or more, plane tickets to somewhere else, injury, acute family dischord...). I would probably stick with it until I sent, or until my performance was obviously regressing.

I'm not saying that's what you should do. I definitely hang on too long at times, and end up with no send, plus an overuse injury and a few weeks of wasted schedule that could have been spent training (or even just enjoying life). On the other hand, when compared to what a typical "pro" does for a limit send, most of us, myself included, have never even scratched the surface of over-committing to a redpoint. They will spend MONTHS just on redpoint burns, falling at the same spot 40 times on redpoint and such, before eventually pulling off the send. I know that physically I could probably be more tenacious if I had the will. I think when you have a family and a life outside of climbing, it's harder to be that single-minded. You have plenty of other things competing for your time and other sources of satisfaction, so it's easier to let a send go and come back to it later. That's great from the perspective of living a full and balanced life, but probably detrimental to one's climbing resume.

Anyway, I think if you stuck with it you have a greater than 50% chance of sending this season. You haven't started regressing yet, so there's still hope. That said, if you walk away with a strong desire to return, you have nearly a 100% chance of sending eventually. Clearly you are physically capable of climbing the route already. You'll almost certainly be even stronger in the future than you are now, and there's a good chance it will feel relatively easy fresh off a new training cycle.

One other complicating factor: Fall is often much better than the spring where you live, so you may have to wait a year to get another good shot at it. If you feel you can wait that long, then there's no shame in retreating now.

[Chris W]

Eric, I haven't been on the route much at all; maybe six total sessions all season. The aches that I feel are a result of neglecting supplemental training in favor of climbing specific training and resting climbing specific muscles. Unfortunately, I have experienced this before.

Mark, fall is typically much nicer here in South Central PA, but spring can be really great as well. Right now, I'm super close on the route and feel I could send on my next redpoint. I think I'll try again on Sunday. Conditions will be much nicer than they were Thursday. I seem to have about three solid redpoint burns available each time I try. If I don't send, I may pack it in, rest, and hit the hangboard. I also want to go eat a nice dinner with my wife, drink a good beer and make/eat cupcakes. It' such a hard decision. I've learned so much this season through the process of working this that, even without the send, my fall season has been a smashing success.

I also think that, if I have to come back in the spring, I can work out at least one more efficient way through the crux. Considering my aching shoulders, discretion may be the better part of valor anyhow.

[Chris W]

Problem solved; project sent! Full details to follow, including gross embellishment and climbing clichés.