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Post by avaserfi on Nov 14, 2015 16:47:06 GMT -7
Wow, this is really cool, Love this idea! It's clear from this table that nearly every location has a "don't bother" hold that you'll almost never encounter, and that almost every area requires a moderate to high level of small semi-closed edge. Wish I had info to contribute but unless someone wants to know how to train for Reimers Ranch in Tx, all the area's I know have already been covered. We might as well make the list complete, right? I don't make it to reimers often, but I do get over there occasionally. Might as well be ready.
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Post by erick on Jan 1, 2016 11:19:24 GMT -7
Cool idea. I suggest we create a matrix. First come up with a more-or-less comprehensive list of grips, then a more-or-less comprehensive list of crags and organize the two thusly:
Crags: | Typical 5.12 Steepness (degrees)
| Typical 5.13 Steepness
| Typical 5.14 Steepnees
| Climb Length (# hand moves)
| Large Open Edge | Small Semi Closed Edge | Closed Crimp | IM pocket | MR Pocket | Mono
| Wide Pinch | Narrow Pinch | Sloper | Smith Rock | 80-90
| 90-100
| 90-110
| 40-100
| ** | *** | *** | ** | ** | *
| | | | Red River Gorge | 90-110
| 100-135
| 110-135
| 60?
| *** | *** | * | ** | ** |
| | | * | New River Gorge | 80-100
| 90-120
| 110-120?
| 60?
| *** | *** | *** | * | * |
| | | * | Rifle | 90-120
| 100-120
| 110-135
| 60-80
| *** | ** | * | ** | ** |
| *** | *** | * | Maple | 90-110
| 110-180
| 135-180?
| 60-100
| *** | * | | *** | *** |
| *** | *** | *** | Rumney | 80-110
| 90-120
| 100-120
| 20
| * | *** | *** | | |
| *** | *** | * | Wild Iris
| 90-120
| 100-135
| 110-135
| 10-20
| *
| **
| ***
| ***
| ***
| ***
| *
| **
|
| Sinks Canyon
| 80-100
| 90-120
| 100-120
| 20-30
| *
| ***
| ***
| ***
| ***
| ***
|
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| Ceuse | 90-100
| 100-110
| 100-120?
| 60-100?
| * | *** | *** | *** | *** | *
| * | * | | Frankenjura | 90-135
| 110-135
| 110-135?
| 10-50
| | *** | *** | *** | *** | ***
| | | | Rodellar | 90-110
| 110-135
| 110-180?
| 40-100
| ** | ** | * | *** | *** | *
| *** | *** | |
NOTE 1: Key to star ratings: *** = critical grip for the crag/often limiting ** = often encountered/occasionally limiting * = occasionally encountered/rarely limiting No star = rarely encountered/never limiting
NOTE 2: Steepness estimates ignore brief deviations from the norm. For example, a vertical route with a 4-foot deep horizontal roof would be regarded as 90-degrees steep.
NOTE 3: This table is a work in progress and not necessarily accurate.
Having just visited Red Rocks I can add some info about the sport routes in the Calico Hills. We tried to visit many a lot of the crags but this list is based mostly on the routes at areas like "The Gallery" Steepness of 5.12s 90-120, 5.13 100-120, 5.14 I don't think there are any Number of Hand Moves, 20-60 Large Open **; Small Semi Closed ***; Closed Crimp ***; IM Pocket *; MR Pocket *; Mono N/A; Wide Pinch **, Narrow Pinch ***, Slope * The only exceptions are a few 13b routes at the sandstone quarry where IM and MR would be ***
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Post by jetjackson on Jan 4, 2016 13:01:05 GMT -7
Wow, this is really cool, Love this idea! It's clear from this table that nearly every location has a "don't bother" hold that you'll almost never encounter, and that almost every area requires a moderate to high level of small semi-closed edge. Wish I had info to contribute but unless someone wants to know how to train for Reimers Ranch in Tx, all the area's I know have already been covered. We might as well make the list complete, right? I don't make it to reimers often, but I do get over there occasionally. Might as well be ready. I climb Reimer's! I'd be keen to hear your thoughts - I would think IM/MR pockets would be important - I always seem to be jamming my fingers in pockets at Reimer's. Any thoughts on Hueco Tanks?
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Post by Dani_W on Jun 26, 2017 7:37:37 GMT -7
I just started my 1st Intermediate hangboard protocol bearing in mind my 1st trip to Ceuse at the performance phase. After seeing this thread I'm not so sure that my grip selection for my strength phase is Ideal for Ceuse. It goes like so: Sloper, Large open edge, MR, Small semi close, Medium pinch, IMR and Large Pinch.
Do you think I should discard the pinches and add more pocket variations instead?
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Post by climber511 on Jun 26, 2017 9:08:22 GMT -7
As I am visiting Kalynomos this fall - and I know many of you are well traveled - perhaps international areas might be included?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 26, 2017 18:17:41 GMT -7
I'm all for it, but I've never been to Kalymnos, so I need someone else to provide the data.
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