Post by kalockwood on Oct 29, 2015 12:31:52 GMT -7
I've read the other thread regarding hangboard training for crack climbing. The main points I took from it are:
Grips that require flexion at DIP and PIP joints
Pockets and open crimp grips
Limit fingerlocks to prevent collateral ligament damage
I wanted to get into the details of a hangboard workout specific for pure crack climbing (Indian Creek style cracks). Specifically, 5.12 finger cracks where you'll be climbing fingers, tight fingers, rattly fingers, ringlocks/thumbstacks (cracks in the Camalot C4 0.3 to 0.75 range).
I'm using the new Rock Prodigy Forge, so the grips I have to choose from are: Large edge Slopey crimp VDER Deep and shallow 2F pockets Micro crimp 3F pocket Steep and shallow slopers Big, medium, and small Pinches
My main questions for building the workout: 1. Which grips are most applicable to pure crack climbing strength training? 2. Since the first 3-4 grips of the workout will see the most gains throughout the phase, which are the most important? 3. For pockets, should I use shallow or deep? 4. For pockets, is IM or IMR more specific? 5. Open crimps or semi-closed crimps?
The grips I put together for a workout right now are:
Large edge open crimp (1 set warm up)
IMR 3F pocket
VDER open crimp
IM shallow 3F pocket
IM deep 3F pocket
Medium pinch (for hand-jamming cracks)
Thanks for the help!
Last Edit: Oct 29, 2015 13:22:49 GMT -7 by kalockwood
I have found crack climbing to be almost entirely technique based. The limiting factor is how much friction can you make with the wall by jamming your digits.
With general hangboarding, the strength you gain will likely be sufficient for your crack climbing goals. Unless you're liebacking the whole route, you're probably better of spending some time figuring out how to properly jam while building up "regular" strength via the hangboard. It will translate.
The difference for me between getting destroyed on any route at Indian Creek vs. warming up on 5.10s came down to technique. From there, the best workout is pullup after pullup after pullup...until everything hurts. The Creek is very much a full body adventure.
I know this doesn't really answer your question, but you may be comparing dis-like things. That being said, your grip choice is good from an overall strength perspective. (Of course it is; you're using the Rock Prodigy Forge!)
Post by kalockwood on Oct 29, 2015 22:05:38 GMT -7
I agree that crack climbing is mostly technique. I've definitely spent a lot of time on the cracks at the Momentum gym's in Sandy and Millcreek, UT to figure out good technique. Just to explain where my strength and technique currently are: last year I was onsighting 5.11's in the creek and red-pointing 5.11+. Now I'm looking to increase my finger strength a bit further so I can push into the 5.12 range.
I worry about damaging my fingers by training on the cracks too much and wanted to figure out the best possible grips to use on the hangboard. Any hangboard training will eventually improve my finger strength for crack climbing, but I would like to get as specific as possible.
I would think about moving the IM shallow pocket and slopey crimp up closer to the start just because those type of grips tend to put a lot of stress on the fingers and its generally better to work you "tweaky" grips first. I also wonder if working the IM shallow and deep at the same time is a bit redundant, but I could be completely wrong. Good luck, keep us posted how this works out for you.
i've found crack mountain climbing to be almost absolutely method primarily based. the proscribing component is how an awful lot friction can you are making with the wall with the aid of jamming your digits.
with well known hangboarding, the power you benefit will probable be sufficient in your crack mountaineering desires. except you're liebacking the entire path, you are likely better of spending some time figuring out how to properly jam while constructing up "regular" electricity thru thehangboard.it's going to translate.
the distinction for me among getting destroyed on any direction at indian creek vs. warming up on five.10s came all the way down to approach. from there, the fine exercise is pullup after pullup after pullup...until the entirety hurts. the creek could be very lots a complete body journey.