Top rope solo to work project with a micro traxion

[heelhook]

Hey guys

I'm really interested to do top rope soloing to work on crux moves of projects; I want to work on a PE route that has a tough boulder problem at the top after a lot of very exhausting climbing. I've tried the crux a few times and I'm able to do the moves maybe 1 every 20 tries after resting on the rope; I'd like to dial down the beta and be able to repeat the moves efficiently but it's hard to do that while someone is belaying me.

I've read about using the micro traxion to top rope solo but I understand that that device is a bit rough on the rope. Is the device good for hanging, falling, resting on the rope over and over? Anyone has experience soloing to work a route?

Thanks!

[wellhung]

There is a lot info on the web.  Here is one article  www.climbing.com/skill/solo-toproping/

 I prefer to use a static rope for rope-soloing, though there is debate on this; you can't let slack accumulate.  I use 2 different devices, as per the article, with the primary device attached to my belay loop as well as to  2 slings over my shoulders, which act as a pseudo chest harness. This keeps the device up high so that when you fall, you don't lose height at all.
A good part about this setup is that when you fall you can get right back on, no finding yourself two feet lower and unable to get back to the move you need to work.  The worst part about this setup is that it takes a bit of fussing to lower to rework a section, so if you are doing just the one part of the route over and over, a gri-gri on a dynamic rope and a backup line with knots might be just as good.

 I haven't had much of issue with the rope being chewed up, but I use the microtraxion as the backup device and a microcender, which is toothless, as the top device.  Be safe.

[RichF]

That article from Climbing is a great start.  I know there have been many forum threads on the topic on Mountain Project.

Personally, I use two mini-traxions and an 11mm static.  I haven't noticed any wear issues from the toothed cam, and have worked on routes where I was falling, but my rope is pretty burly.  It might show up quicker on a dynamic line. 
 I've mainly used my TR setup for running PE laps, or checking out new route potential.

I basically stopped reading about the various systems once I experimented a bit and picked the one I like.  At the time, the mini-traxion was the go-to tool for most people.  Since then, the micro came out, and I've heard is preferred for TR solo.  I haven't tried it, but from looking at a friend's it seems less prone to the main danger of the mini-traxion - the cam getting locked open accidentally.  I had a terrifying TR solo incident when I was checking out a tricky section about 250' off the ground that I had been considering trying to lead.  I TR'd through it, and as I was rocking up onto the ledge at the end I had the thought, "that felt too insecure to want to lead" (didn't have good protection).  Then I looked down and realized BOTH mini-traxions had somehow become locked open.  So, I had just solo'd the section I had decided was too dicey to lead.  After that, I ground off the tab that allows the cam to get locked open so it can't happen again.

I'd be interested to hear from folks that have worked overhanging routes on TR solo.  I find overhanging terrain annoying because the rope needs to run in front of you.  The weight of the rope pulls out on you, and the chest height device gets pressed into you.  It makes me nervous that it is going to snag on my t-shirt, etc.

Have fun and be safe.  

[slimshaky]

i have worked quite a few routes TR solo, using a bunch of different devices (albeit not the microtraxions). it is a great way to work vertical, slabby, or slightly overhanging routes, particularly if they don't have any brutal big dyno types of shut-down cruxes. i haven't ever really worked a super steep route this way though, and i think it would really suck.

i wouldn't really worry about the rope that much, other than being VERY careful to protect/pad any sharp edges that the rope runs over. as for rope wear and going through ropes more quickly, in the grand scheme of things ropes are pretty cheap (compared to the overall costs of getting to the crag a bunch, opportunity costs of lost wages, etc). i usually just use retired ropes that are a pain to belay with, but not coreshot or anything.

when you add up all of the costs that you don't think of - that's where it gets spendy. i am always amazed how much one send can cost when it all gets added up.

[Danny]

I have 2 micro traxions (mini trax are no longer made? ).  The whole system is a bit janky but it is safer than soloing.  In general the system is easier to use on less than vertical to slightly overhanging terrain.  Though I know people use it on steep routes too.  You would need to have your roped clipped into gear as directionals and unclip them as if you were following the route.  I really only use toprope soloing as a last resort because I think it is a pain in general, but is far superior to not climbing on the route!

[Tom]

Before i changed jobs i would TR solo 12 - 15 laps in an afternoon after work, usually 3 times a week.

I use the mini trax (MUCH better than the micro) and two slings around the shoulder to keep the device up and properly oriented.  The setup is solid.  

The one thing I made sure to do is grind down the lock mechanism for the capture - this way there is no way the device locks open accidentally. 

As for wear and tear - i never saw any wear on the rope from the teeth.  However, you may see some wear on the rope where it goes over the top edge - especially if you are swinging a bit on falls.

bring an extra sling to prussic if you're working something hard!

[tango]

I've always used two micro-traxions. One attached to a carabiner that runs through both points of the harness, and the other attached to a sling around the chest (to keep the two traxions from bunching up).

Honestly, it's not a terribly complicated system so long as you're competent and trust yourself to set it up. As always, backup backup backup.

[Chris W]

So I'm considering trying some rope soloing this spring. It seems like one of my biggest issues is finding able and willing climbing partners during the times I'm available to climb, usually weekday mornings.

I don't have any safe ways to access the top of my climb to set up a top rope though. What do most folks do? I thought of anchoring the rope to the ground around a big a$$ boulder and a tree (or two) and using a stick clip to clip as many bolts over me as I could. Then I'd set something up to jug up the rope, clip in direct to the bolt, stick clip several more bolts, and repeat the process until I'm at the top. I was thinking of rigging something similar to what I saw Kenny Parker doing in a youtube video he did on replacing an old piton with a bolt at the new river gorge. He used an ascender and a grigri to climb the rope. If I do this, I could technically stay "on belay" while I feed slack through the grigri to stick clip the bolts.

I have ZERO experience with any of this, so it all makes me a bit nervous. If I decide to try it, I'll have to practice it in the barn to be sure I'm comfortable with it. If I'm even a little bit uncomfortable, I won't do it. I'd rather be frustrated with a lack of belayers than be hurt or dead. My wife would be pretty pissed at me if I died...

[MarkAnderson]

That's how I would do it. If you can get a super long stick clip it will save you a lot of time.

[tetrault]

The CT Roll n Lock is somewhat similar to the micro traxion, but a little less expensive, and has ridges to bite the rope vs teeth, which seems less aggressive. link

The Petzl Microcender has even more rounded ridges if you are worried about the rope sheath.

I have TR solo-ed a bunch to work a goal route. Usually with a pen and paper in my pocket to draw up crux holds and write down beta, etc. while hanging on the rope.