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Post by iclimb2improve on Oct 18, 2015 21:40:03 GMT -7
Just some background on me before discussing my training plan. I'm a college student, who currently doesn't have a lot of money and currently lives in an area without any really close crags (currently in Iowa), and I'm looking to make some strength gains for a trip for this coming spring break if conditions are good or during the summer when I'm at home closer to some crags. I currently climb high 5.11's outside and I almost put down my first 5.12 down today (which, unfortunately, will be the last time I will be able to climb outside in a while).
I'm currently doing my first training cycle, and I'm loving it however the time I will be reaching my performance phase will be near the end of the semester when I'm not going to have a lot of time to go climb outside (since I should be studying for finals around this time) and most of the crags will be snowy any cold. So I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on how to get as strong as possible for when the conditions will start to get good again and I may have some more money to go climb.
I've read on here that power endurance training is pretty worthless to train if you aren't going to use it for a performance phase, so should I skip it take a week off after the power phase and then repeat cycles without it until it's close to a possible trip? I wouldn't want to train something that would hinder me in getting stronger in the long run, so I'd like to hear your thoughts.
Thanks in advance!
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Post by jessebruni on Oct 19, 2015 6:26:51 GMT -7
Training power endurance in this cycle won't hinder you in your next cycle. If you're saying that you've got time for two cycles, but only one thing to "peak" for, then it might be a good idea to do base fitness->strength->power->rest->strength->power->power-endurance->peak. Maybe even throw another base fitness phase in there if you're going to someplace like the Red. Anyway if you don't anticipate a need for PE in the upcoming phase I don't think it would be detrimental to skip it. PE is easy-come easy-go.
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Post by jcm on Oct 19, 2015 14:49:58 GMT -7
Regarding the statement that PE is "easy come, easy go": This is only sort of true, and only for some people. Those making this statement are usually people who have experience training PE, have built up their PE in the past (the body does have some memory of this), and also have the technical skill set for PE climbing (pacing, pump management, maintaining footwork while tired). In this situation, it is sensible to just work on power all winter, and then quickly build up PE during the month before a springtime performance phase.
It sounds like the OP is a bit newer to training and to performance sport climbing, however, and likely does not have signficiant experience with training PE or with climbing on PE-intensive terrain. In this case, he probably has a lot of learning to do with PE climbing, in addition to the actual physical training aspect. Also, training PE is just plain tricky. It definately takes some time to figure out how to set good training circuits, what the right pace/intensity is, and so on.
As a result, I think that the OP would reap signficiant indirect benefits from a mid-winter PE cycle, even if that fitness never gets put to use on a goal route. This mid-winter cycle will essentially serve as a PE training practice run; it will be an opprotunity to experiment with how to train PE effectively (setting the right training circuits), to practice PE skills (pacing, pump management, staying in control when tired), and to build a background of PE ability (which will allow you to more quickly train up PE in the future- the body does remember). All of this will allow you to be much more effective when you need to train PE "for real" in preparation for your spring performance phase.
In short: Skipping PE training in the winter is sensible and effective for a seasoned and well-trained sport climber, but those a bit newer to the game have a lot to learn even from a "practice run" PE phase.
That said, it may make sense to abbreviate your "practice run" winter PE phase, depending on how it fits into your schedule.
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ericg
New Member
Posts: 42 
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Post by ericg on Oct 19, 2015 16:42:00 GMT -7
I agree with JCM. I did the base fitness->strength->power->rest->strength->power->power-endurance->peak for 2 winters and both those springs were basically wasted seasons and it was not until i did another cycle with another pe phase before fall that I even got back to my previous best (in terms of redpoint difficulty). This winter I did a more traditional cycle (skipping performance and restarting after PE) and am having my best year ever.
I think part of this is that i don't have a lot of time to train on real rock so I can't afford to spend any of it training PE. I need to come in fit (both mentally and physically) at the start of the Performance phase and PE trains helps with both. If I had a lot of time spend on the rock outside during PE/Performance it probably would not matter as much.
I think is also the reason why my friend who generally only boulders, but much harder than me, still cannot out climb me on a rope, even after he did a PE phase (except on the short 2 bolt Rumney wonders).
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Post by jcm on Oct 19, 2015 16:54:31 GMT -7
My comments above are one reason (among several) that I think the "training for the long run" concept thrown around on this site is misguided.
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Post by daustin on Oct 19, 2015 17:43:48 GMT -7
My comments above are one reason (among several) that I think the "training for the long run" concept thrown around on this site is misguided. I think your comments above are very insightful and would be curious to here you expand on what the several other reasons are... |
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Post by joev9 on Oct 20, 2015 5:18:27 GMT -7
I am with JCM on this one, in that you can't replace actual climbing experience with just training. You really need both to come together and give you that awesome sending period. I don't train PE as I only boulder but used to route climb for many years. Every once in a while I will rope up in the gym and am amazed that I still remember all my sport climbing tricks (resting, pacing, etc.). My PE sucks, but I can fake it up to a point with all the experience that I built up in the past.
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Post by iclimb2improve on Oct 20, 2015 14:42:17 GMT -7
Thanks for the advice guys! I'll keep Power Endurance in my next couple of seasons based on this information since this is my first time training, and I'm sure I could still need some work on my technique (especially while pumped).
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