Projecting first 5.12a

[jetjackson]

At the beginning of this year I set the goal of lead climbing my first 5.12a. At the beginning of the year I had never lead climbed before. I took a class in February, and in March I led my first outdoor route. Right now I am leading 5.11b within a couple of burns, but that is the highest I have led to date.

A friend lent me the RCTM book back in June. I really dig the analytical approach and I went out and bought my own copy. I am doing my first proper RCTM cycle at the moment, and am 6 hang board sessions into the strength cycle. I took a slight break out of the cycle to enjoy the best weather we have had here in Texas since May. I couldn't resist testing my new strength, and jumped on one of the more popular 5.12a's - a short, crimpy 30 foot route, slightly overhanging, with lots of small holds. It's pretty beta intensive, and I got a fair bit of guidance, but this was my 4th burn. It didn't go down, but I've done all the component parts and I think I'll get it once I get into the power endurance cycle and I go back fresh. There are 2 cruxes, the two finger pocket at 42 seconds in the clip, and sticking the bump - where I fell on this burn. 

Before the strength cycle, I doubt I could have stuck that 2 finger pocket and pulled off it! Totally amped on the program so far.. and definitely more confident that this 5.12a will go down before the end of the year.



Also, any feedback on aspects of my climbing that need work, I'd love feedback. My footwork could probably be more precise. 

[James_E]

Yeah the footwork is what I noticed. Your leg movements are very jerky and imprecise. I found that strengthening my core helped me with that. Focus on smooth, controlled foot movements. Also try to place your foot perfectly the first time rather than "bouncing" your foot on the hold. I've found doing so helps me climb faster and more efficiently. Good work and good luck with the rest of your season!

[heelhook]

Yeah, well done getting on a 5.12a! I would say you are climbing too much facing the rock. You need to turn your hips a lot more to help make the moves more natural and less reachy, you seem to be pretty tall, which might explain why you tend to climb more face on, since you don't need to bend so much to get better holds. I would practice a whole lot of turning on a wall and on multiple and varied routes. Even get on as many 5.11b's as you can get and try to climb them effortlessly. You'll see how much improvement you get just from that!

Keep going and good luck with the season.

[jetjackson]

Thanks guys! I'm dead on 6 foot. I'll prioritize some footwork drills on some light arc sessions, and some core work. When I get to power endurance phase, there should be plenty of opportunity to do a lot of hip turning on the 45.

I know I need to spend a lot more time hanging out on 5.11's, and working to climb them effortlessly. The 5.12a goal is kind of arbitrary, the biggest leaps I will have made this year in climbing, are simply confidence on lead, and learning training techniques/developing a structured approach to training. I'm looking forward to spending winter ticking off plenty of 5.11's at the crag.

[jessebruni]

Hey buddy, nice work, did you get it this weekend? If not I can give you some pointers from the video based on the fact that I've done this route waaay too many times. I've actually been incorporating it in my warm up lately as it works the fingers so well it gets me ready to try hard. Anyway, a few things, first at 0:14 you go out to an intermediate hold, and then use it to bump up to the good crimp at 0:20. That's 6 seconds of wasted time there, better to match the hold your right hand is on, and bump straight up to the good crimp with the left hand. The beta for the crux pocket move is tricky, and it looks like you found a way to do it, but I believe there is an easier way. You used a really far away left hand that is okay, and had to really lock off on that thing in order to get both your feet up. Obviously it worked but that's pretty strenuous. I would try instead bumping your left hand from the rail you're matching on up and slightly left to an okay crimp (it's about 4 or 5 inches diagonally up and left, way closer than the hold you went to). Then bring your left foot into position directly under you and bring your right foot all the way up to the 2nd crimp rail on the route (the one your left hand is on at 0:07). This might feel a little awkward as you can't really get your weight onto that foot until you start to move, but once you do it works out beautifully. From that position you'll pull up and lock off on the left hand, shifting all your weight onto the right foot and left hand, which will get you into the pocket fairly easily.

As for the rest of the route, you can make those moves smaller by utilizing more of the holds. At 1:06 there is a good sidepull/undercling for the right hand about 1.5 feet lower than the hold you grabbed onto. You can hit that hold, and then cross over left hand to the hold you fell bumping to. From there you can cross your right hand again to a good hold right above the left and do a big move left hand to a good crimp. From there bump up through the slopers and move off them quickly. When you hit the last sloper bump up and right to the good ledge before clipping the last bolt. Don't try to clip it from below, you'll just waste energy as that hold sucks.

I'll be out there next weekend. If you come out hit me up and I'll spray you down!

[jetjackson]

Hey Jesse,

Thanks for the awesome beta - I never saw this response to this post until now. Appreciate it. Definitely have to become more economical here on the route, as I feel I'm compensating on technique by using raw power, and getting burnt out as a result.

I went back out there a few weeks later to get onto it, but the seepage was bad and the route was wet - hopped on All Hail Broke Loose instead, but couldn't get through the crux at the top of that climb - really balanced finish I think.

I'm in HB mode at the moment, but will get out there early in March during performance phase and try to send it. If you're around, would much appreciate the beta spray!