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Post by amalec on Oct 4, 2015 9:16:01 GMT -7
1) I use the RPTC wide VDER, narrow VDER (at the widest portion), wide pinch, and the three fingered pocket, LMR and MRP. Narrow VDER is more or less the money hang. Not sure how to define "half-crimp" (b/c different people use that term differently), but I'd guess most of the work is open grip. Don't believe I could yet do more than body weight on a crimp grip.
2) I'm generally training for overall finger strength. On one of my Bishop projects (Ketron Classic), I'm failing on the move to an edge on the thinner side where specific open to crimp finger strength would be useful (although body positioning may also be an issue for me). On my other projects, there's a range of grips. For example, Nat's Traverse is more or less a link of three V4/5 boulder problems each of which has a mix of crimps, slopers, pockets, and lots of whole body strength needed.
3) Repeatable limit problems are an issue in gyms, so I've tended to fall back on harder problems that I can't complete. There's a systems wall, but it doesn't have much in the way of thinner edges.
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Post by tedwelser on Oct 5, 2015 11:08:16 GMT -7
1) I use the RPTC wide VDER, narrow VDER (at the widest portion), wide pinch, and the three fingered pocket, LMR and MRP. Narrow VDER is more or less the money hang. Not sure how to define "half-crimp" (b/c different people use that term differently), but I'd guess most of the work is open grip. Don't believe I could yet do more than body weight on a crimp grip. 2) I'm generally training for overall finger strength. On one of my Bishop projects (Ketron Classic), I'm failing on the move to an edge on the thinner side where specific open to crimp finger strength would be useful (although body positioning may also be an issue for me). On my other projects, there's a range of grips. For example, Nat's Traverse is more or less a link of three V4/5 boulder problems each of which has a mix of crimps, slopers, pockets, and lots of whole body strength needed. 3) Repeatable limit problems are an issue in gyms, so I've tended to fall back on harder problems that I can't complete. There's a systems wall, but it doesn't have much in the way of thinner edges. Ok- just to clarify, when you say wide and narrow, you are referring to the depth of the edges. So, are you meaning when you use the small VDER at the widest portion do you mean the deepest part, which is also the innermost part? Or do you mean the outermost portion, which is the shallowest? Regardless you should try experimenting with using a half crimp grip on the innermost, or deepest portion of both the large and small variable depth edges. By half crimp I mean a grip where you actively maintain a 90 degree angle in the second joint of all four fingers, or at least in your IMR. On the RPTC I press my thumb in the inner wall of the board while holding a half crimp on the innermost portion of the variable edges (doing so helps to engage the pinky). In another recent thread (and below) I posted a drawing of the half crimp grip, and the terminology I am using is simply borrowed from an explanation on Eva Lopez' blog. Regardless the key of the half crimp grip is that you have to engage your extensor muscles to keep the form of the grip. When I hang it I work it up to the weight that I can hold without loosing that form. Given the projects you mention I am pretty sure that you can hold body weight on the half crimp on the inner parts of the large variable edge as well as the small variable edge. But I also think that if you have not been hangboarding using a half crimp then you should notice an immediate impact in terms of soreness in your extensors and a resulting increase in how strong you feel on crimps. In contrast, open hand and semi crimp grips primarily load the finger flexors, and the extensors remain relaxed. I noticed a real deficiency in my ability to use crimps in steep moves last spring, and integrating the half crimp into my HB workout was what I thought would be the safest way to address it. I can say that it has helped me for sure, both in terms of using crimps on routes and in boulder problems at my home gym. I am now constructing problems entirely out of crimps on the 55 degree wall where I used to avoid them or only use them selectively.
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Post by amalec on Oct 8, 2015 21:13:17 GMT -7
You interpret my use of "widest" = "deepest" correctly. Tried using half crimp position on the large VDER today. Will continue with it. Will also do more volume bouldering work after the strength run, and see how it goes.
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