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Post by jorgemendoza on Sept 16, 2015 13:41:19 GMT -7
Hello everyone,
I was wondering if you know of exercises which could benefit your ability of toe/heel hooking.
The only way I can think about improving toe/heel hooking is through climbing on steep terrain(I know. Shocking!), but it would be nice to do supplemental exercises that would make the main muscles involved in toe/heel hooking stronger.
How do you guys (if you do) train for toe/heel hooking?
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Post by rob on Sept 17, 2015 12:40:14 GMT -7
I don't really train for either to be honest, except maybe during skills practice sessions, but I don't specifically train the muscles used for the moves.
I guess lunge type exercises would be good for heelhooking, but I'd imagine unless you have some glaring weakness, most peoples legs will be strong enough for heelhooking in 99.9% of situations anyway.
Toe hooking may be different. A guy in my gym once said he does bat hangs from a bar to strengthen the muscles used, but again is it really worth committing time to strengthening these muscles when your efforts could be spent training more commonly used muscles (unless where you climb often demands toe hooking).
Others may disagree, but that's my 2 cents (im learning Americanism's)
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Post by Chris W on Sept 17, 2015 17:36:59 GMT -7
Two euros doesn't have the same ring to it. I had to google tosser though after your comment on the other thread... wish I hadn't
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Post by Chris W on Sept 17, 2015 17:40:21 GMT -7
Dang. 2 pounds worth?
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Post by rob on Sept 18, 2015 3:59:14 GMT -7
I had to google tosser though after your comment on the other thread... wish I hadn't Haha! Sorry about that. Yeah pounds (or pennies) here, but that still sounds pretty rubbish.
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Post by jorgemendoza on Sept 18, 2015 8:01:27 GMT -7
Thanks rob. In regards to whether training these muscles is worth it, I have found toe hooking to be a weakness of mine and a common factor in the problems I like, thus, I decided to work on it. I have found that flexibility has a big influence, and clearly, core strength. I feel more comfortable heel hooking, and sometimes I get some nice toe hooks, but it is just because it extremely toe-hookable. Again, thanks.
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Post by matt9204 on Mar 23, 2016 13:43:35 GMT -7
For heel hook training use 1 leg hamstring curls using a box, chair, or bench. You can also make it harder with gymnastic rings set at waist height. I'm not sure about toe hook exercises except for finding a low undercling to practice moving off of. Hip flexibility and core strength are also a big part of it. You start throwing some pretty hard heel hooks once you hit V5+ climbing.
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Post by alexandra on Mar 24, 2016 8:51:15 GMT -7
is there a video of hamstring curls that you can share to make sure I got the right exercise in mind? I was wondering myself how to train for this move. I was climbing outside yesterday and working on a V6/7 where the first three moves are off of a really hard heel hook and I can feel my left hamstring/leg being super sore this morning. I do a TON of heavy squating all the time, but it seems like squats help the heel hook only minimally.
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Post by matt9204 on Mar 25, 2016 14:48:34 GMT -7
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Post by matt9204 on Mar 25, 2016 14:54:33 GMT -7
I decided I should create a profile
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 3, 2016 9:11:02 GMT -7
I tend to underestimate my leg strength, and therefore I tend to underestimate the relevance of leg strength for climbing. Considering that, I think it's probably more likely to be a technique issue than a strength issue. I would take a good hard look at my hooking technique, and consider adding some heel hook practice long before I added hamstring curls to my training program.
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Post by matt9204 on Apr 7, 2016 8:18:36 GMT -7
Yes, technique, flexibility, and core strength are most important, and will get you by on most heel hooks. Some heel hooks will require pulling most of your body weight up using your hammys, and doing hammy curls on leg days can help prevent hamstring strains on those. One leg curls on a workout ball, simulates the feel of those hard heel hooks. Also warm up your legs a bit before trying those heel hooks.
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Post by AustinDD on Dec 23, 2017 16:02:54 GMT -7
Hey folks, sorry I'm late to this party, but wanted to add a couple of thoughts on toe-hook exercises. Here are three really good workouts I've been doing for toe-hooks:
1. Lay facedown on your mattress at home, hanging your toes off the edge. Pull your toes into the mattress, with force, and hold for as long as you can. 10-25 seconds seems reasonable to me. Isolate each leg but doing them one at a time.
2. Use a vertical bench (the kind where you are suspended off the ground via armrests) or parallel bars for dips. Slide your toes into two kettle bell handles, and do single leg raises, keeping your feet flexed upward. This also benefits the core and upper leg muscles involved in toe-hooking.
3. Tie a resistance band to a vertical pole, get on your hands and knees, and put your toes inside the band. Then pull your knee into your chest. This is also great for your core.
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dsm
New Member
Posts: 48
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Post by dsm on Dec 23, 2017 16:19:18 GMT -7
This reminded me of an interview with Paige Claassen on the Training Beta podcast. She practiced toe hooks for a 5.14 she was projecting by simply toe hooking up the sides of a Moonboard. Interview and video of her doing this here for anyone interested: www.trainingbeta.com/media/paige-claassen-norway/
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Post by RobF on Dec 24, 2017 11:00:00 GMT -7
Some good ideas. Only thing I can think of is concept 2 rowing.
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