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Post by planar on Sept 11, 2015 3:50:16 GMT -7
Hello everyone. This is my first post to this forum. Nice to be here  I have recently got my copy of RCTM and started training for climbing for the first time in my climbing life. First cycle went OK, thought it to be a bit more of an investigation on how concise training should feel like. Now progressing through the second "proper" cycle i am quite confused on my inability to handle the "MR 1 Pad 2F pocket" Working through the Intermediate hangboard training routine, the "MR 1 Pad 2F pocket" is the 3rd hold in the routine. I have a really really big problem to train this hold. I just can't stay on the board no matter how much weight i take off (up to -17 kgr on my last training still and failed on the 3rd rep of the first set). I feel something is wrong because I am able to complete all the other holds of the routine at nearly body weight or with small weight subtractions (max -6 for the semi crimp) Any feedback or ideas? Is it normal for this exercise to feel so much harder than anything else or am I doing something wrong? Thanks |
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Post by jorgemendoza on Sept 11, 2015 5:52:12 GMT -7
Hi planar. Welcome to the forum!
I had a similar experience with my 2F pocket (Normal and Shallow) hangs. After 3 strength cycles, I did notice that I was doing a couple of things wrong, which yielded to a poor hanging form.
1) I was not engaging my back and shoulder muscles in spite of engaging them on my other grips.
2) After hanging with the right form, I noticed that I could indeed bear a lot of weight on my fingers (i.e., engaging my fingers in the hangs. Before, I noticed that I was just hanging there without much purpose. Imagine like when you hang from a pull-up bar just for the sake of "hanging").
I don't know why I was doing these things. My guess is that I was always afraid of 2F pockets, and hung shyly with lack of confidence and determination. I always thought that I was trying hard, but I really wasn't. After implementing this, my brain understood that I could hang from 2F pockets, and try hard. Now, I love pocket problems, which I used to despise.
Hope this helps.
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Post by planar on Sept 14, 2015 0:01:33 GMT -7
Hi Jorge,
Thanks for replying. What you describe makes sense. I will try today to be more engaged and see how it works for me:)
Thanks
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Post by Chris W on Sept 14, 2015 1:56:54 GMT -7
I just can't stay on the board no matter how much weight i take off (up to -17 kgr on my last training still and failed on the 3rd rep of the first set). I've taken off as much as 30kg on some grips. Try taking off more weight and see how well you progress. Some of my grips are much weaker than others for no obvious reason. |
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Post by jetjackson on Sept 14, 2015 9:10:00 GMT -7
I did my first hang session on the weekend, I had to take 50 pounds off for both the MR and IM pocket holds and still struggled, thats -22kg.
Meanwhile, I added 20 pound to the small edge and did bodyweight on IMR, with ease.
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Post by planar on Sept 21, 2015 2:03:51 GMT -7
Thank you all for the replies.
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Post by erick on Nov 8, 2015 19:41:14 GMT -7
I am Hijacking this tread!!!
Today was my fourth workout of this training season, and I have been working the MR. I have the RPTC and I have been using the smallest MR pocket this season. So far the workouts have always felt pretty desperate but I have been making progress.
Today after the third rep of my first set I felt a distinct pressure in the A2 tendon on the left ring finger. I stopped there because tendon injuries scare me, and continued the rest of my workout without a problem.
I am wondering if you think stopping was the right move, and should I try the same thing again during the next workout or jump up to the larger hold?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 9, 2015 9:21:16 GMT -7
It was probably a good idea to stop. I wouldn't necessarily switch grips though. Are you taping the base of your ring finger? If not, consider taping, and regardless, I would recommend backing off the resistance 10 or 20 pounds before proceeding.
Can you describe the sensation you felt in more detail? I can't tell if you're talking about feeling an injry, or just noticing that the A2 under stress (or somewhere in between). Also, what are you doing with your pinky on this grip?
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Post by erick on Nov 9, 2015 11:04:17 GMT -7
I did not feel any pain but the A2 was distinctly under stress that build over each rep while the other fingers were not. I had tapped the base of each finger but next time I will try and tape a little tighter. My pinkys and index fingers were slightly curled in while using this grip. The previous workout I could feel the tendons deep in my forearms but not this last time.
I think I will follow your advice and back the resistance off by at least 10 pounds.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 9, 2015 13:51:24 GMT -7
Ok, ya, it sounds like it's not hurt, but it's getting tweaked for sure. I would continue taping*, back off the resistance, and pay attention to how it feels while hangboarding. Be prepared to back off or end a set if it starts to feel threatening.
(*Remember, tape needs to be quite tight to work, and it stretches with use, so its best to apply orthopedic right before you use it. In this case, I would tape right before you do the first set of your MR grip.)
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Post by Charlie S on Nov 9, 2015 18:04:08 GMT -7
Take a look at the last question, "Pocket Trauma," here: drjuliansaunders.com/ask-dr-j-issue-172/My training buddy did this last training cycle and I've come pretty close a few times. Not sure it's the same injury, but it might be. Also, It may be worth buddy-taping the ring finger to the pinky finger. This tends to keep those tendons happy on such a difficult grip. |
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