thor
New Member
Posts: 13 
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Post by thor on Sept 9, 2015 5:13:53 GMT -7
In my climbing club we built a moon board some months ago with the three different set of holds. This has been very popular and feels like a great training tool.
There is not much mentioned about the moon board on this board or in The Rock Climber's Training Manual. For me it seems like the best tool to train limit bouldering, since it focuses on a few very hard movements in a 40° overhang. What do you guys think about the Moon Board, and how should it be used within the program?
Regards,
Thor
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Post by Drew H on Sept 9, 2015 5:28:16 GMT -7
I love the moon board and definitely do incorporate it into my limit bouldering workouts. I think it's a great training tool - you can definitely track your progress because the problems are static. You get to train climbing specific movements, powerful moves, lockoffs, and catching holds that are just at the limit of your reach.
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Post by Ales on Sept 9, 2015 5:55:35 GMT -7
I love it tooo...I just had my Moon board here in Dubai...and love it.
Now moving to Germany and in our climbing gym they have it as well and it made super happy.
I agree that it is good tool for limit bouldering and good fun even if you train alone. Too many problems to try really hard.
Ales
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Post by tedwelser on Sept 9, 2015 6:53:35 GMT -7
I am planning on building a moon board this fall with some friends (we live in a small town, so there is no gym to build one for us). The main thing that is holding me back is the cost of shipping to the US plus the high cost of the holds. I am holding out hope that I can find someone in the US with a board that they no longer use and will be willing to sell their holds. I really like the idea of standardized holds and a common framework.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 9, 2015 7:05:48 GMT -7
I really love the concept. I think the reason we don't discuss it much is that very few Moon Boards exist in America. I've never seen one, let alone climbed on one. I would love to try it though.
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Post by Ales on Sept 9, 2015 8:38:09 GMT -7
I am planning on building a moon board this fall with some friends (we live in a small town, so there is no gym to build one for us). The main thing that is holding me back is the cost of shipping to the US plus the high cost of the holds. I am holding out hope that I can find someone in the US with a board that they no longer use and will be willing to sell their holds. I really like the idea of standardized holds and a common framework. Hey, they aint that expensive but shipping could be. I have shipped all three sets (I would suggest to order just those A and B, without original school set). You would have tooooo many problems. Try, if you could find someone who fly for some airlines. They have cargo allowances and they might help you. I did it with friend of mine and Emirates Airlines. I have paid 140USD. Cheers, Ales |
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Post by wellhung on Sept 9, 2015 10:29:33 GMT -7
I have a Moonboard, and it is my favourite part of my home set-up. Lots of problems with dynamic powerful movement. Lots of holds that aren't very positive as you pull past them. The strength gains seems to translate well to less steep climbing, as do the movement skills. I have mostly used it to train power, but recently I have begun messing with doing high end power endurance (e.g. 4x4's with dropoff between problems and as brief rest as I can get away with, decrease rest between workouts to increase intensity) using what would normally be my warmup problems. I'd recommend picking up all three sets of holds if you have the money, since the old-school holds are so different (smaller, poorer friction) than the newer ones.
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Post by slimshaky on Sept 9, 2015 11:37:07 GMT -7
i would love to make a system board that is basically 2 symmetric/mirrored moon boards on a wall that you could adjust the angle. that would be killer.
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Post by sorvad on Sept 10, 2015 4:12:02 GMT -7
If I had the space a moonboard would probably be the first thing I built. Second best would be if my gym had one.
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Post by joshvillen on Sept 10, 2015 10:41:44 GMT -7
I love the idea but I am not sure why we need the moon holds, why not just build you own little "guidebook" and share with other people.
I.E (40 degree overhang, spacing= 5inchs, hold=tron disk technik, rotated to 180 degrees) then take pictures and share
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Post by joshvillen on Sept 10, 2015 10:58:32 GMT -7
Maybe its time for Mark and Mike to design some system holds...The birth of the "RockProdigy Board" is nigh hahaha
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 10, 2015 11:28:18 GMT -7
We've considered it. One thing holding me back is that I would feel like I was stealing from Ben Moon. Perhaps a better option would be to license the Moon Board concept and holds, get a set of molds in the US, and then pour the Moon Board holds here to cut down on shipping costs.
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Post by joshvillen on Sept 10, 2015 12:47:47 GMT -7
I am thinking atomic system holds, good looking holds for a reasonable price...also yaniro pockets!!
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Post by slimshaky on Sept 10, 2015 13:14:41 GMT -7
We've considered it. One thing holding me back is that I would feel like I was stealing from Ben Moon. Perhaps a better option would be to license the Moon Board concept and holds, get a set of molds in the US, and then pour the Moon Board holds here to cut down on shipping costs. well, hurry up and get on it!  |
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Post by Charlie S on Sept 10, 2015 19:01:45 GMT -7
I think this was posted elsewhere but here's what I spent on Moon holds just recently.
I bought the set of Original School Holds, Set A, and Set B. (Original School holds are WAY small! Set A and B have more "normal" sizes).
~$430 in holds (for 150 holds. Not bad.)
~$230 in shipping (ouch!)
~$4 international wire fee
~$32 in tariffs
So you're out almost 700 by the end of it. Part of the hiccup is that there is currently no US distributor of Moon holds. That would cut down on the cost considerably.
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