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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 8, 2015 14:14:09 GMT -7
You may recall several months ago Mike posted a survey on RCTM.com to assess the efficacy of the Rock Prodigy method (and the RPTC). Mike wrote up the results for an academic paper which can be found here. Mike will be presenting the paper at the Asian-Pacific Congress on Sports Technology in Barcelona at the end of September.
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tango
New Member
Posts: 34 
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Post by tango on Sept 8, 2015 16:45:32 GMT -7
Very nice. Congrats.
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Post by daustin on Sept 14, 2015 17:58:01 GMT -7
Congrats! What a fortuitous location for a conference, I'm sure Mike was really torn on whether that travel would be worthwhile or not...
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 14, 2015 19:04:54 GMT -7
I know, right? Once he found out about the conference, then he decided to write the paper. I suspect if every scientific conference were in Omaha, there would far fewer papers published.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 8, 2015 9:41:15 GMT -7
If you haven't seen it yet, the first report on Mike and Janelle's trip to Spain can be seen here on RCTM.com! |
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Post by rob on Oct 12, 2015 3:11:15 GMT -7
If you haven't seen it yet, the first report on Mike and Janelle's trip to Spain can be seen here on RCTM.com! Great article! Always nice to read that some high level climbers lead normal lifes like the rest of us (e.g. Dealing with children and time constraints). |
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Post by jivemiguel on Jan 26, 2016 9:58:30 GMT -7
Nice work on the paper. I have some questions regarding the following quote:
"The data indicated that climbing ability is not well-predicted by factors such as years of climbing experience, frequency of climbing or training, or use of a systematic training program as reported by the respondents (linear regressions of these relationships R2 values less than 0.1"
I did not see this mentioned in the paper, so perhaps I overlooked it. I am curios how well initial weighted hang ability predicted climbing ability? Of all the factors listed in the survey, which factor had the highest correlation with climbing ability? Were there large differences in WHA across the grades? Did you see less variation in WHA as the grades became increasingly difficult?
Many thanks. This type of quantitative information would really be beneficial in the self valuation process!
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