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Post by Chris W on Aug 30, 2015 13:55:24 GMT -7
So I do try to use existing threads when I can, but I couldn't quite find one to match my questions. I almost used the thread "How I'm Hangboarding", since the title seemed so match the self-centered nature of my inquiries. Regardless...
The results of my Fall Season HB is as follows:
LVDER open hand = +50 lbs (6 reps, new PB)
2 finger MR pocket 1,2 = -5 (6 reps, new PB)
SVDER half crimp = -15 (6 reps, humble pie, dialed back to keep half crimp position)
2 finger pocket deep IM = -15 (6 reps, match PB)
Wide Pinch = -10 (6 reps, new PB)
3 finger slot MRP = +15 (6 reps, match PB)
Sloper = +10 (humble pie, didn't match old PB)
My main question is, does the disparity between my LVDER (largest part of the edge) open hand and my other grips seem appropriate? Granted, I consider that to be the most important and applicable grip for where I climb and use it first, but still, +50 there seems worlds away from my other grips. Nothing else even comes close.
Does anyone else have similar spreads in their grips? I've been hangboarding for 2 years now...
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Post by Lundy on Aug 30, 2015 17:42:48 GMT -7
Hi Chris,
I used to have similar disparities so I actually stopped using LVDER. I was at +70 when I dropped it. At the time I was at +15 MR, +15 IM, +15 SVDER, so actually quite close to your spreads. I dropped it as I felt I was double-training the same PIP joint angle on SVDER and LVDER, so I didn't see how it was going to do me much good. Not sure if that's accurate at all, but there's also the point that I don't usually see holds that big on the routes I'm trying, so not really worth training that grip. If you think a lot of the routes you're on have holds about that size, then I would think there would still be value in training it.
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Post by Chris W on Aug 31, 2015 2:00:27 GMT -7
Thanks Lundy, I'm going to at least downsize the grip, if for no other reason than swinging 50 pounds off my harness feels a bit ridiculous. As I try harder routes, the holds are getting smaller anyhow. I realized after my post that Mark/Mike has a graph in the book on page 80 showing different resistances. Different holds and a different kind of spread, but still a spread. My LVDER is my first grip trained [per hangboard session] and has shown the most improvement and the most steady improvement since I started hangboarding 2 years ago. I rarely fail to complete a set on this grip. Makes me wonder if the strength was always there and I'm just now tracking it or if it benefits that much from being the first grip trained. Maybe by the time I'm 50 I'll have enough data to figure that out  |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 31, 2015 8:26:50 GMT -7
I would say that spread is big but it's not outrageous. I currently have a spread of 55 lb between my lightest (mono) and heaviest grips (Closed crimp and open crimp). That said, looking at all your data it would probably make sense to down-size the LVDER.
This is an interesting question though. I never really thought of it in those terms. In theory one could argue that a minimal spread makes the most sense, based on the idea that "X" amount of weight will be on your feet for a given goal route, and so "Body Wieght - X" should be on your hands, regardless of grip type. From there, grip size would be adjusted accordingly to achieve failure at the correct resistance (one that builds toward "Body Weight - X").
In practice, I suspect climbing isn't so simple, and neither is hangboarding.
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Post by jessebruni on Aug 31, 2015 8:29:46 GMT -7
I also find that I don't see holds of the LVDER size on the routes I'm trying too often, or rather, when I do see them, holding on isn't an issue. If you like training open hand as a grip I don't see why you wouldn't just downsize the LVDER and keep training it open handed though.
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Post by Chris W on Aug 31, 2015 18:06:07 GMT -7
So far, the LVDER makes sense for my level and the holds I'm seeing. The harder the climbs, get, the smaller the holds (at my home crag, anyhow). When I need to downsize to the point that I can't keep an open hand position and keep my pinkie on, I may have to reassess the grip entirely.
Good to know you guys have a bit of a spread as well. It's a bit humbling to see some of the weights you guys are hanging on grips I haven't even hit body weight on yet. Have to keep my ego in check and focus on the process.
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Post by jlarson on Sept 15, 2015 21:33:35 GMT -7
Good to know you guys have a bit of a spread as well. It's a bit humbling to see some of the weights you guys are hanging on grips I haven't even hit body weight on yet. Have to keep my ego in check and focus on the process. Hah! I'm still shooting to hit body weight on more than two grips! The process is pretty rad though...I've never been inspired to track my workouts (climbing or otherwise) until I started hangboarding. It's pretty cool to quantify the improvement. |
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Post by daustin on Sept 19, 2015 13:13:00 GMT -7
So I just started a super condensed HB cycle before a bouldering trip in about a month's time. Normally I climb on super enduro slopey jug hauls, so my HBing so far has been more geared towards larger holds with more weight. For this mini-cycle I'm throwing in the thin crimp on the RPTC for the first time, and...
DAYUM! I'm going to have to remove more weight on this grip than any other, and that includes the IM and MR pocket grips that I'm training more for tendon-conditioning than actual strength. There will be about a 60 lb delta between my baseline for the thin crimp and the semi-crimp on the SVDER! Feels good to recognize this as such a glaring weakness -- gains tend to come easiest when your baseline is really low =)
Not that I was surprised given what I've read from others who train this grip, but it is PAINFUL. I also found that my 2nd set on the grip went MUCH better than my first, suggesting that I wasn't really warmed up (even though I intentionally crimped a lot more during my bouldering warm-up). This is probably a factor of both my overall weakness on the grip and the fact that it's a new one for me. Next time I might do a couple short hangs on the grip before my actual set to make sure that I'm failing for the right reasons!
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Post by Chris W on Sept 19, 2015 17:30:10 GMT -7
Next time I might do a couple short hangs on the grip before my actual set to make sure that I'm failing for the right reasons! I've had to do something similar to this with my half crimp. I didn't do an actual hang, just bore down on the hold to "work the creaks out" of my joints before doing my actual set. I'm getting older... |
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