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Post by heelhook on Aug 20, 2015 3:27:31 GMT -7
Hey guys, I have about 11 days between trips (gorges du tarn and kalymnos). I am about to wrap up the power endurance phase and, since I won't be able to do any proper training in Kalymnos (going to be there for six weeks), I was planning about doing some training between those two trips. Since its so little time I thought about mixing strength and power workouts, so something like
day 1 | HB
day 3 | bouldering
day 6 | HB
day 8 | bouldering
day 10 | bouldering
What do you think? Have you guys ever tried mixing strength and power workouts?
Thanks!
Pablo
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Post by rob on Aug 20, 2015 6:10:43 GMT -7
Hey guys, I have about 11 days between trips (gorges du tarn and kalymnos). I am about to wrap up the power endurance phase and, since I won't be able to do any proper training in Kalymnos (going to be there for six weeks) First of all, extremely jealous Pablo! How can you afford to have so much time off climbing? I did a similar thing to tick off a project of mine earlier in the year where I needed more strength and power quickly. In 11 days you're only going to be able to achieve recruitment and speed of contraction gains (as opposed to hypertrophy), so I'd really focus on that. What I did was do a short HB workout: 3 grips plus a warm up (key to your goals - so I imagine pockets/ pinches for Kalymnos?) using the Max R protocol (5 on 5 off) then followed this with some pretty intense LB (2-4 move power fests) creating about a 1 1/2 - 2 hour session and did that 4 times. It worked super well for me and I felt really strong and powerful and ticked the project easily. This approach allows you to better apply the progressive resistance protocol that we know works by doing the same workout several times in a row, as opposed to doing HBing then LB then back to HBing where you cant progressively increase the load at the point of supercompensation each time because you're passed it. Enjoy the trip! |
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Post by heelhook on Aug 20, 2015 7:42:46 GMT -7
First of all, extremely jealous Pablo! How can you afford to have so much time off climbing? I did a similar thing to tick off a project of mine earlier in the year where I needed more strength and power quickly. In 11 days you're only going to be able to achieve recruitment and speed of contraction gains (as opposed to hypertrophy), so I'd really focus on that. What I did was do a short HB workout: 3 grips plus a warm up (key to your goals - so I imagine pockets/ pinches for Kalymnos?) using the Max R protocol (5 on 5 off) then followed this with some pretty intense LB (2-4 move power fests) creating about a 1 1/2 - 2 hour session and did that 4 times. It worked super well for me and I felt really strong and powerful and ticked the project easily. This approach allows you to better apply the progressive resistance protocol that we know works by doing the same workout several times in a row, as opposed to doing HBing then LB then back to HBing where you cant progressively increase the load at the point of supercompensation each time because you're passed it. Enjoy the trip! Wow, super awesome tips! I'm going to do that rob. Thanks! As for time off climbing, I am software engineer so I do all my work online consulting on optimazing user onboarding experiences and reducing user churn. That way I can just take my laptop with me and work on the road, so out of the 6 weeks in Kalymnos I'll probably be climbing in the morning and working in the afternoon when it's too hot to climb  |
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Post by rob on Aug 20, 2015 10:07:48 GMT -7
That's awesome! Im pretty sure i read in a previous thread you live in margarlef too. My local crags are all dingy, dirty old quarries! Please update us so I can at least vicariously experience your awesome sounding life (sad I know), but seriously, I'm hoping to convince my partner to do a mini trip there next year sometime, so any beta would be appreciated.
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