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Post by lvcrimping on Aug 6, 2015 17:14:28 GMT -7
What are everyones thoughts/experience with flat edge vs pocket training for monos and finger pairs? I have seen several people (Tortter) supporting the ideas that you will get stronger by training on flat edges vs pockets because with a pocket the extra friction around the edges allows for cheating.
On another note does anyone train for thumb catch type holds? When your palm is flat against the wall in a half crimp and there is a little spot for the thumb to hook.
With the introduction of the Forge I have been thinking a lot about gip selection.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 6, 2015 20:39:22 GMT -7
... you will get stronger by training on flat edges vs pockets because with a pocket the extra friction around the edges allows for cheating... I don't know which is "better", but the notion that one way or the other would get you stronger is not logical. Theoretically you should adjust the resistance relative to the grip such that you're failing at the prescribed TUT. The load might be different between the two grips, but the perceived difficulty will be the same. It's like arguing using smaller holds will make get you stronger. When using a smaller hold, you would apply less resistance to compensate for the longer lever arm acting on your joints, and so theoretically you would exert the same amount of force on either (the amount of force you are capable of applying for the given TUT). Varying friction, depth, slope, etc might make a hold seem harder or easier relative to fixed resistance, but the key factor is the amount of force your fingers exert on the grip. Maximizing that force for the duration of each set will get you stronger. That depends on your willingness to try your best and skill in fine-tuning the applied resistance to reach failure at the end of the last rep. The best thing you can do when it comes to grip selection is to pick grips that are as comfortable as possible so you can try your best without pain or skin limitations interfering with your effort. I like rounded pockets because they distribute the pressure on your finger pads evenly, which I find more comfortable. YMMV. |
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Post by lvcrimping on Aug 6, 2015 23:43:23 GMT -7
Cant argue with that. Also, the "Law of Specificity" (as I like to think of it) would state pulling on a pocket, train on a pocket. Thanks Mark.
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