Possible PE deficiency for Bouldering Program?

[foreverv3]

Hey All,

I've catalogued the bouldering problems I've sent over the last two seasons (getting ready for third season), and I noticed some interesting trends. With the exception of one out-lier, all the problems have less than 8-9 (hand) moves on steep terrain (45 degrees or steeper) with only 1-2 crux moves in succession. The results makes sense as I'm currently following the RCTM bouldering program (Power training focuses on 1-2 hard limit moves), and I was thinking of adding a PE section to address this weakness. I don't want to add this training to my power training session as my fingers are fried from campus and LB training. What would be an optimum period (number of days / weeks) and what would this section look like? I was thinking of reducing my power period training by about a week and adding a truncated 2-2.5 week PE section that follows the generalized program (p.187). Has any boulderers experienced similar results or noted these deficiencies in PE?

[slimshaky]

i wouldn't trade off the power training for PE training, especially for bouldering. power is like gold, but 10 times more valuable. if the problems are in the ~10 move range strength and power are still really important. the thing that will get you to the finish line is really dialing in the moves and executing them quickly and efficiently.

that's my .02

[amalec]

The bouldering training approach in the RCTM suggests adding a PE cycle for longer routes and traverses. So keep the strength/power cycles the same, and add some PE work.

[joshvillen]

I also agree with getting the moves dialed, even I (one move wonder extraordinaire) have been able to slowly piece 20+ move double digit boulders together, its a pretty aggravating process though (knowing it would be so much easier if you simply had GOOD P.E). Problem is, you can lose a ton of power by doing too many 4x4's, my solution was to boulder 4-6 days on and then take a rest day, seems the added volume was enough, with limited power loss.

[MarkAnderson]

I agree, if you're primarily a boulderer, don't do anything that will interfere with your power training. I would recommend a standard Power Phase followed by the NLP workouts described in this post. This will allow you to maintain good power while adding a bit of PE training. The key to maintaining your power peak is to 1) continue training power regularly and 2) keep the PE training with reason. If you're training PE for bouldering, then you're training high intensity low rep PE. So no more that 20 hand moves per set, maybe less (time is a better indicator than # of moves).