Modifying the Rock Prodigy Workout for Mixed Climbing

[steve]

Hey everyone, 

My goal this Winter is to climb the mixed route Cryophobia: www.mountainproject.com/v/cryophobia/108665221

I bought the RCTM with the hopes of improving my rock climbing but my focus has turned to preparing for the upcoming mixed season. I like rock climbing, it's just I'm more passionate about mixed. 

I'd like to increase my endurance hanging from the tools by using a hanging routine but the problem is there really is only one grip on an ice tool. Is it beneficial to try to work through the beginner hangboard routine with just one grip? Will hangboarding even help with mixed climbing since it is mainly for developing finger strength?

There are a lot of concepts from the book that I can translate to mixed climbing (Planning, ARC training, Power, PE) but I'm struggling a bit trying to develop a plan for the hangboard phase.

Anyone have any experience with mixed climbing training that they can recommend?

[tedwelser]

I suppose that you could try doing weighted one arm repeating hangs from an ice axe grip to work strength, and you could do long duration two arm hangs for endurance, or use those indoor loop based ice tools to ARC climb with ice axe grips?

For instance, if you attached 40 pounds to your harness how long do you think you can hang from an ice tool? I wonder because endurance is partly a function of max strength, so if you can ramp that up your endurance will go up too.