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Post by jessebruni on Jul 23, 2015 12:12:17 GMT -7
I do the same as Joe. Although I do think for the smaller holds like the smallest IM, MR, and thin crimp holds it might be better to move in 2.5 lb increments as moving up 5 lb's per workout makes it so that my first few workouts are too easy but it gets incredibly difficult very quickly.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 23, 2015 14:04:00 GMT -7
didn't realize there was a grey area in when to step up. I shoot for 7, 6, and 5 reps for each grip with an increase of 10lbs between each set. When I succeed on all three sets, I raise all the weights by 5lbs for the next workout. If I fail on any (or all) of the three sets, I stay the same weight for the next workout. That's what I do. But that doesn't stop me from recording a bunch of jibberish in the "comments"
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Post by joekr07 on Jul 24, 2015 5:10:57 GMT -7
I usually just stick a climbing grade to it  Ie something like 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c, ..... 7c where the last grade would represent my maxmimum limit at the time. Gives that extra bit of motivation for pushing even harder |
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Post by joev9 on Jul 24, 2015 6:03:25 GMT -7
Ok, Mark and Jesse, just was starting to get worried that I was doing something wrong. I usually go with profanity in my notes when a set is really hard...
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 24, 2015 7:05:58 GMT -7
Nice profile pic  |
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Post by heelhook on Jul 24, 2015 8:00:09 GMT -7
I usually just stick a climbing grade to it Ie something like 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c, ..... 7c where the last grade would represent my maxmimum limit at the time. Gives that extra bit of motivation for pushing even harder I thought about doing that but then I thought that my perception of difficulty will change over time as my climbing improves and would make it hard to look back and see what my perception of difficulty of the sets were at a particular point in time. |
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Post by tedwelser on Jul 24, 2015 11:16:50 GMT -7
didn't realize there was a grey area in when to step up. I shoot for 7, 6, and 5 reps for each grip with an increase of 10lbs between each set. When I succeed on all three sets, I raise all the weights by 5lbs for the next workout. If I fail on any (or all) of the three sets, I stay the same weight for the next workout. Yeah- I was doing the same strategy that you describe (but with the intermediate workout). However, I shifted my approach towards maximizing the likelihood of completing full sets. By adding a rep to each set I am making sure I get the full TUT while also working to the point of failure, and then when I advance to the next weight level I am more likely to be strong enough to complete a full set. In a sense it is arbitrary to add the bonus rep, but I like that it is easier to make sure that I get a full dose of TUT every workout, but also have room to improve every workout. There was a thread earlier where I asked about what I should do when I fail to complete my set, but Mark's response strongly suggested working to keep momentum behind completing full sets. So I suppose I am erring on the side of stepping up later, but in doing so I minimize loss of TUT below the target amount. I also get to make incremental progress on the way to stepping up by increasing the length of the bonus hang (up to 7 seconds). |
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