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Post by Trevor Hartman on Jul 17, 2015 13:29:38 GMT -7
I just started my first hangboard training routine. I must have missed it when reading the book, but what does "Step Up" mean on the log?
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Post by jessebruni on Jul 17, 2015 13:49:11 GMT -7
Did you improve between this workout and the previous one? If so you "stepped up". Makes it a bit easier when you're looking back on old logs to see improvement. You can see improvement at a glance rather than reading all the details.
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Post by Trevor Hartman on Jul 17, 2015 14:01:56 GMT -7
Thanks. That makes sense. I've never really been disciplined enough to log training, but this seems very useful, and useful = motivating.
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Post by climber511 on Jul 17, 2015 14:26:29 GMT -7
I use an arrow system in my log book. An up arrow if I am supposed to add next session - to the right if I need to stay the same - and a down arrow means the resistance was too much for me currently.
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Post by Trevor Hartman on Jul 17, 2015 15:01:32 GMT -7
Thanks for the tips. Today as I did my HB training, I wrote my target resistance for the next session based on the results of my current session and how hard it was.
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Post by heelhook on Jul 17, 2015 15:10:28 GMT -7
I use an arrow system in my log book. An up arrow if I am supposed to add next session - to the right if I need to stay the same - and a down arrow means the resistance was too much for me currently. I actually started doing something similar that evolved into a very basic and dumb grading system: Easy- Easy Easy+ Ok- Ok Ok+ Hard- Hard Hard+ Easy means that I didn't have to push too hard to complete the sets and I can easily add 10lbs resistance to the next workout. Ok means that I hard to work to complete the sets and that I should aim to add around 6-8 lbs resistance to the next workout. Hard+ usually means that I basically failed with 0 seconds remaining. When I write Hard I usually add between 2-4 lbs to the next workout. This gives me a good idea about what I should aim for for the next hangboard work out. I actually even write the resistance for the next one right on the spot during the hangboard session.
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Post by rob on Jul 17, 2015 16:28:32 GMT -7
I use a similar system Heelhook, only with numbers in place of descriptive words. This is my system:
5= I feel I could do 5 more reps if I continued with the same set. 6-9= the same principle adjusting the number of reps left in the tank 10=perfect fail at the end of the last rep 10+= too hard. Did not complete the whole numbers of reps.
Typically I try and increase weight after any other rating than 10+, but the numbers help me to judge what an appropriate weight increase is from session to session.
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Post by slimshaky on Jul 20, 2015 9:51:37 GMT -7
those are all really good ideas and will help you dial in the best weights. i also find that it helps get me psyched to look forward to my next workout.
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Post by jtcragger on Jul 20, 2015 11:52:08 GMT -7
I've been using an old Yosemite Aid climbing system: NTB - Not Too Bad, PDH - Pretty Darn Hard, YFYD - You Fall, You Die.
Fortunately I haven't needed to use the last one yet.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 20, 2015 12:05:19 GMT -7
I've been using an old Yosemite Aid climbing system: NTB - Not Too Bad, PDH - Pretty Darn Hard, YFYD - You Fall, You Die.
Fortunately I haven't needed to use the last one yet. I do pretty much the same. I have a bunch of code phrases I put in the comments that indicate the perceived difficulty. In order of difficulty these are:
Easy NTB Kinda Hard PDH Hard Quite Hard Very Hard Super Hard Insane
Clearly these are heavy on the "hard" side of the spectrum, which should indicate to you all that when it comes to perceived difficulty, I'm a huge drama queen.
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Post by slimshaky on Jul 20, 2015 13:23:38 GMT -7
ha ha. i remember on MP somebody told me once that i should work for gilette because i wanted a 5 star system instead of the 4 star system. my system is basically:
x - means i was successful and it was about right xe - a little too easy, go up 7.5 or maybe even 10 lbs xt - got it, but tough probably go up 5 lbs, depending on how all the other sets went xb - barely got it, might only go up 2.5 lbs, especially if a lot of my sets were brutal xbb - probably 'rounded up' to the nearest second, only go up 2.5lbs next time f3 - failed a total of 3 seconds of the set (stay at same weight) f7 - failed a total of 7 seconds of the set (stay at same weight, try to evaluate what happened) etc...
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 20, 2015 20:26:40 GMT -7
Your last two reminded me of two other key descriptions I omitted: NTF - Not to Failure TF - To failure These are usually combined with the other qualitative descriptions a la: "VH but NTF" (Very hard but not to failure) or "TF, 1-4 good 5=6.8s" (To failure, completed the first 4 reps, and failed on the 5th rep at 6.8 seconds). Others are CDM - Coulda done more and DEA - Did em all. For example "VH but CDM" as opposed to "VH barely NTF" or "TF but DEA" (meaning I failed at 7.0 on the last rep). Most of this crap is meaningless, but I'm sure future archaeologists will be fascinated by my detailed records
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Post by rob on Jul 21, 2015 12:58:49 GMT -7
Most of this crap is meaningless, but I'm sure future archaeologists will be fascinated by my detailed records Wow there is some real depth to your system... They would need a cryptographer to decipher what the hell all the letter & number combinations mean!
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Post by tedwelser on Jul 23, 2015 11:43:54 GMT -7
Based on conversation from an earlier thread I add a bonus rep at the end of each final set, and record the # of seconds it is held for, and provide a qualitative assessment.
So, it would look like: IM -45; 7x ok, IM -35; 6x +5, hard.
So, this would mean that I am not quite ready to step up, as I only hung the bonus rep for 5 seconds and it felt hard. Generally, if I can get the bonus rep complete to 7 seconds, and I report it as "hard-ish" or easier I will step up next workout.
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Post by joev9 on Jul 23, 2015 11:55:47 GMT -7
didn't realize there was a grey area in when to step up. I shoot for 7, 6, and 5 reps for each grip with an increase of 10lbs between each set. When I succeed on all three sets, I raise all the weights by 5lbs for the next workout. If I fail on any (or all) of the three sets, I stay the same weight for the next workout.
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