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Beans
May 19, 2014 14:28:58 GMT -7
Post by alvaro on May 19, 2014 14:28:58 GMT -7
Other than being the magical fruit and making you toot, what are the benefits/pitfalls of using beans as a source of protein and fiber, primarily at dinnertime? My girlfriend is a vegetarian (+fish), so while I would love to cook up a nice chicken dinner a few times a week we are limited to fish and plant-based forms of protein (soy, quinoa, beans).
I've noticed a few climbing blogs and articles recently suggesting to limit the intake of beans but they haven't (yet) gone into the details of why. So why should beans be limited as part of a climber's diet (for losing and maintaining weight)?
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Beans
May 20, 2014 9:09:45 GMT -7
Post by MarkAnderson on May 20, 2014 9:09:45 GMT -7
Alvaro, Beans aren't the worst thing to eat, but the problem with them from a diet perspective is that the protein-to-carb ratio is far from ideal (for folks who are using a low-carb/high-protein diet like we recommend in the RCTM). Here is some data from a nutritional website I like to use to look up foods: Black Beans, 1 Cup: nutritiondata.self.com/facts/legumes-and-legume-products/4284/2Roasted Chicken Breast, 1 Cup: nutritiondata.self.com/facts/poultry-products/703/2The beans have 15g of protein and 26g of "net carbs" (total carbs minus dietary fiber). Compare that to the chicken which has 43g of protein and 0 carbs! Granted, the beans win in the fat column (1g vs 5g). Pinto beans are slightly worse (30g net carbs), but nowhere near as bad as Quinoa: nutritiondata.self.com/facts/cereal-grains-and-pasta/10352/234g of carbs, only 8g of protein, and 4g of fat! If fish is an option, I highly recommend it. I have a stockpile of frozen salmon and vaccuum-sealed tuna in my kitchen that is my go-to protein when I'm dieting. Salmon tends to have more fat than chicken breast, but its "good fat". Just don't slather it in butter, etc. Tuna (light, in water NOT oil) is the big winner: 0g Carb, 1g Fat, and 42g of protein per can, and its super cheap, portable and does not require refrigeration: nutritiondata.self.com/facts/finfish-and-shellfish-products/4206/2Granted, it smells and tastes terrible Disguise it in a big bowl of salad and you'll get all the fiber and essential vitamins you need to boot.
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Beans
May 21, 2014 5:00:00 GMT -7
Post by Chris W on May 21, 2014 5:00:00 GMT -7
I don't care much for fish at all, but my wife loves it. I have to drown it in lemon/lime juice or smother it in salsa/mango salsa. I know that can add carbs, but I can't tolerate any other way.
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 21, 2014 18:52:45 GMT -7
Ya, but the carbs in salsa are pretty minimal, especially if its veggie based salsa (ie, not mango salsa).
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Beans
Dec 9, 2014 9:13:38 GMT -7
tj likes this
Post by heelhook on Dec 9, 2014 9:13:38 GMT -7
As a vegan following the rock prodigy training program I can suggest cooking with either tofu, tempeh or seitan; these are my go-to-foods for high protein foods, specially seitan which is pretty much all protein. Tempeh tastes amazing, so I like to use that quite a bit as well. You can mix these with some algae, like kombu or wakame, to improve the bio availability.
I use quinoa for my on-the-crag meals, as it has a very good amino acid profile and is rich in carbs. I add a bit of fat (like some line seeds) which slows down the metabolism a bit and gives a normalized energy level for a few hours.
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tj
New Member
Posts: 18
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Beans
Dec 19, 2014 20:52:47 GMT -7
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heelhook likes this
Post by tj on Dec 19, 2014 20:52:47 GMT -7
Hey heel hook! Glad I'm not the only vegan on here! We eat a lot of beans as well, along with everything else you listed. I figure a (non Oreo filled) vegan diet is pretty low fat so the beans aren't going to hurt
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Post by RR on Aug 24, 2016 3:43:11 GMT -7
As a vegetarian of 15 years, I can say that climbing is not really a sport that needs the same amount of protein as some "more exhausting" sports. Climbing training is mostly moderate compared to my previous sports (box, rowing) and exhaustion is not comparable. I believe that the ratio of 1:1 (kg/g) would be just enough for even the top athletes. When I did boxing, I used to eat around 10 complete eggs per day, along with two protein shakes and the protein from different veggies. It was barely enough for muscle gain and I was loosing muscle weight with even the smallest reduction to this portion.
Muscles and tendons grown in climbing training are not the biggest ones you can train. When you train legs and back for strength and muscle gain, you are using a lot of protein to fix-up the broken muscle tissue. Remember that Ondra is a semi-vegetarian and he is the top performing climber in the world. It is difficult to find a top performing vegetarian in any other strength-based sport.
Anyway, diet is important, even hugely important. But focusing on carb-protein ratio is, in my opinion, not applicable for climbing. At least, not in the same amount as body building. And please remember that most popular online posting on sport nutrition is based on body building... really so far from climbing.
RR
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Beans
Aug 25, 2016 3:36:01 GMT -7
Post by heelhook on Aug 25, 2016 3:36:01 GMT -7
In my experience wrt protein intake, what I've noticed the most is recoverability. I'm a vegan and when I make sure my protein intake is high enough I recover much much better. Within my limit grade of about 5.12 I'm able to perform three and even four days in a row. When protein intake is lower I find that by the end of day two in a row I am exhausted and take much longer to recover. YMMV.
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Beans
Aug 25, 2016 7:27:27 GMT -7
Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 25, 2016 7:27:27 GMT -7
In my experience wrt protein intake, what I've noticed the most is recoverability. I'm a vegan and when I make sure my protein intake is high enough I recover much much better. Within my limit grade of about 5.12 I'm able to perform three and even four days in a row. When protein intake is lower I find that by the end of day two in a row I am exhausted and take much longer to recover. YMMV. I totally agree. I've stuck with (relatively) high-protein intake on training days because when I don't, I feel like shit the next day. I think this is related to age in my case--when I was younger I never noticed feeling any different the day after hard training/climbing, but now I really feel it. I added two 25g protein shakes, one to fill the gap between my post-workout protein bar and dinner, and the other right before bed, and it's made a huge difference in how I feel the next day. Does it make a difference in my performance? Hard to say, but even if it doesn't, it's worth the money/calories to not feel like shit 100+ mornings per year.
Edit to add: Another thing I like about my protein shakes is that they totally nuke my appetite for a couple hours. I can't think of anything else I've consumed that is nearly as satiating.
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