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Post by avaserfi on Jul 5, 2015 19:52:52 GMT -7
My recent wall construction has created a new obsession. Aside from the resources Mark has provided regarding preferred holds here and here I thought it might be beneficial if we created a discussion on holds we like to set with and train on. Thus far, the holds I have used from these lists work very well, but I'm interested in expanding options. Some of my wall details for reference 8' x 8' at 40 degrees. DRCC - Deep Cut Crimps - small positive crimps. At 40 degrees it will be hard to set easier problems. These holds are quiet challenging, and I'm finding them useful for hard and limit bouldering problems. The dual texture makes them nice to limit foot hold options. DRCC - The Force Edges Medium - at 40 degrees I wouldn't say these are are the most positive edges, but they can hold a couple pads. They just aren't as deep. Again the dual texture makes them interesting to set with. I have found them most useful for technical footwork on warm up problems and compression problems. Atomik - Mini Volumes #4 Diamond - purchased this on a whim. My wife has been having some trouble with the steep wall and I thought this might be a nice aid. Relatively inexpensive and well built, but a little small for some holds. I like the mini volume because it gives more options on a single angle wall and allows us to create some interesting moves. That's it for now. I haven't purchased many holds and I mostly stuck with some of the holds from Mark's lists. As a side note, I have no affiliation with any climbing hold company. What holds are you enjoying?
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Post by Chris W on Jul 6, 2015 14:23:00 GMT -7
I love the sandstone chips and sandstone rails (all screw on) from e-grips for feet and tiny crimps.
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Post by Otis. on Jul 7, 2015 8:56:00 GMT -7
Check out Kilter climbing grips and Teknik. They are by far my two favorite hold manufacturers. Between the gym and my personal wall, I've climbed on nearly all of Teknik's line and about half of Kilter's. Both do a great job with clean edges and ergonomic holds that are really nice to climb on. E-grips and Enix would be my next two favorite manufacturers.
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Post by avaserfi on Jul 7, 2015 14:11:31 GMT -7
Check out Kilter climbing grips and Teknik. They are by far my two favorite hold manufacturers. Between the gym and my personal wall, I've climbed on nearly all of Teknik's line and about half of Kilter's. Both do a great job with clean edges and ergonomic holds that are really nice to climb on. E-grips and Enix would be my next two favorite manufacturers. Any specific sets from these manufacturers you are fond of?
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Post by Otis. on Jul 8, 2015 6:48:46 GMT -7
Avaserfi, if you give me a target grade range, I can give you some specific recommendations for your 40 degree wall. Also, will you only be using them on a 40?
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Post by majorsick on Jul 8, 2015 9:45:15 GMT -7
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Post by joshvillen on Jul 8, 2015 10:32:19 GMT -7
I am a big fan of teknik holds, specially the tron discs and methods
Also, e-grips are awesome, the 2 tex pinches and crimps
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Post by Chris W on Jul 8, 2015 18:00:45 GMT -7
Three Ball Climbing is one of my favorites. My favorite holds on my wall are from their granite line. You can set some amazingly technical problems with those holds. They are also 2 tex
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Post by avaserfi on Jul 8, 2015 20:26:23 GMT -7
Avaserfi, if you give me a target grade range, I can give you some specific recommendations for your 40 degree wall. Also, will you only be using them on a 40? Not necessarily looking for personal suggestions. I'm just curious what holds others in the community are using and how.
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Post by Otis. on Jul 9, 2015 7:23:13 GMT -7
Avaserfi, if you give me a target grade range, I can give you some specific recommendations for your 40 degree wall. Also, will you only be using them on a 40? Not necessarily looking for personal suggestions. I'm just curious what holds others in the community are using and how. So some of my favorite holds include: Kilter: WINTER SMALL 2 - INCUT CRIMPS (In my opinion, these are the best incut crimps on the market) NOAH SMALL 1 - LOW ANGLE CRIMPS (excellent crimps as well, a little bit more difficult than the crimps above) TEAGAN MEDIUM 3 - PINCHES AND LOW ANGLE CRIMPS (look funky, but climb really good. Set has a good mix of holds for vert walls to 45's) Anything from their sandstone line. These are some of the best looking holds and every set in the line climbs great. Teknik: Meatiums best rounded edge holds I have used. I love these holds! Minimeats. A great 3/4 pad crimp. Doesn't feel tweaky at all, which is impressive for their size Geeks 1, 2 and super geeks. Great small jugs at a good price. The super geeks are the biggest jugs Bullies are really good larger jugs Fat lips set 1 are really good sloped jugs
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Post by climber511 on Jul 9, 2015 16:12:24 GMT -7
My favorites by far are the old Petrogrips made from real rock.
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Post by Chris W on Jul 10, 2015 2:55:46 GMT -7
My favorites by far are the old Petrogrips made from real rock. I remember those! they had some at the climbing gym where I first learned to climb
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Post by tedwelser on Jul 27, 2015 19:54:16 GMT -7
I have a bunch of kilter, but I especially like the following:
noah medium 5 sandstone medium 1 teagen medium 1 winter medium 3
I also have the teagan kaiju and the teagan large 2, the teagan kaiju are great for making steep terrain more 3d
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Post by tedwelser on Jul 27, 2015 20:05:32 GMT -7
To follow up with other holds-- I like the Yaniro pinch series and pocket series. Atomik offers these now and they are still great. I also have many good sets from egrips, notably the bubble wrap ledges and pinches, comfy crimps, demi loaves, hueco patina crimps, sandstone crimp screw ons.
Oh, and the Urban plastix ribbon pinches are great for 45-60 degree walls.
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Post by joev9 on Jul 28, 2015 9:14:19 GMT -7
I have several of the original Yaniro pinches and pockets from way back in the day (the first holds I ever bought at Rock and Snow in New Paltz back in 1994ish), still love them!
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